[Review] ROFIS MR70 (XHP70.2 & XP-G2, 26650) An amazing all arounder

Cooler temps and longer runtimes? Never heard that one before. Please explain.

NW gives much better color rendering at only minor lumen loss.

You can have the same CRI at any temp, and CW LEDs are more efficient so you’ll get longer runtimes providing you cap the lumens at the same levels. I.e. an Emisar running at 1000 lumens in both CW and NW flavours will see the NW run out of juice first.

To advise better I think adding the word slightly would have helped.

Thanks, I don’t recall ever reading any discussion of the heat or runtime thing of CW vs NW, just a lot about color rendering for NW.

Not saying it hasn’t been discussed, but I personally don’t recall anyone raving about a great High CRI cool white either. I do have a High CRI triple Nichia 219C R9050 in 5700K, and it’s a bit too cold for my liking, but it does have great color rendering.

I think deciding on a NW or CW is completely subjective to the users preference of light color, much more than a decision based on minor brightness, heat or runtime differences.

For example I’d gladly sacrifice a few lumens, a bit less runtime and a bit more heat to have NW. For someone who truly prefers a NW tint I doubt they would change to a CW because it “gives (edit:slightly) brighter light, cooler temps and longer runtimes”. JMTC

It’s why I prefer the 6500k Emisar D4 XP-L over the 5000k Emisar D4 XP-L in 18650 format. In 18350 use I prefer the 5000k as it doesn’t get red hot.
Tbh I don’t have many of the same lights in both NW/CW to compare heat handling but going by the Emisar it’ll be significant. I bet a 4000k Acebeam X80 would get pretty toasty compared to the 6000k stock light. With the warmer X80 being 2500 or more lumens less!

Has anyone actually tested this (the difference in runtime & heat output between CW & NW LED versions?)

It would be interesting to confirm whether the difference in runtime & heat output is slight or by a considerable margin.

Do you guys think it’s possible to swap out the emitter pcb and change the colour temperature that way??

None of the reviews I’ve seen showed the bezel and reflector removed from the head.

Has anyone answered you yet?

I think the bezel is glued. You’d probably need to heat it up and then push and turn on a rubber pad to get it loose.

Does anyone know if the battery is protected or unprotected?

It looks like it might be the Shockli 5500mah which tends to measure closer to 5750mah.

“Integrated battery overcharge/discharge protection circuits”

is printed on the battery

Thanks, that might explain all the crazy turbo amp draws I’ve been seeing. Anywhere from 4.16A, 6A and 8.1A. I wonder what it would draw with an unprotected 26650?

No one has really measured the lumens, so all I have to go on are the amp draws, and those need to be with a good unprotected high drain battery.

KG_Tuning, I saw your video review. You say you measured about 3150 lumen at turn on. Can you describe your lumen measuring setup?

I saw a Russian review where they got the bezel off. It looks to use a regular 20mm DTP mcpcb.

They used a watch bezel remover tool:

CRV Steel Watch Back Case Opener Adjustable Screw Back Remover Waterproof Wrench Repair Tool Set With 18 Pins Replaceable parts
http://s.aliexpress.com/zIbqMZVB

I think they also heated the bezel to 115°C for 3 minutes to soften the glue.

Pictures here:
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showpost.php?p=1127588&postcount=39

Thanks for the review…

As for the USB charging function it all depends on the coding on the output and voltage drop depending on the cable being used. Maybe they did design the driver to put out 2.2A but after cable losses it drops way below 5V which reduces current greatly. USB-C output is also pretty much uncharted territory for power banks like this so I wouldn’t trust it to charge my phone unless it’s an emergency.

Thanks JasonWW! Looks like I might get ’n NW or WW Xhp70.2 P4 bin LED for this light. Mine is another two weeks away from delivery. SA customs are sooo sluggish.

I just thought that I would mention it here, Rofis might be supplying the MR70 with one of two different batteries. One is protected and the other is unprotected.

Anyone having stepdown from turbo too early?

Freshly charger Rofis 26650 12 seconds. Liitokala 26650 black 15 seconds, Sony VTC6 in an adaptor 22 seconds.

Cant figure it.

I have the same problem with my MR50. Even with full battery, the step down from turbo is almost immediate, sometimes after 2-3 seconds.

Sure, check out this other MR70 thread.

Yeah. I forgot about that.

I posted in that thread about waiting for 26650s.

Made no difference.

Has Rofis tried to help fix it? Surely they would have some suggestions or things to try. Ultimately you might just have a defective driver.