Anyone recognize this buck driver?

I pulled this buck driver out of a cheap, low-quality 1-2s JM05-style light.

I plan to replace it with…something else, once I find a good combo of emitter and driver for the light.
In the meantime, I wonder what, if anything, I can do to make this driver more interesting.

Does anyone recognize it? If so, do you know of a source for more info on it, or a common name for it, to make searching easier and more fruitful. Or, barring that, info on the components, or similar drivers?

I’ve come at it from a number of angles myself, but so far, I haven’t turned up anything.

Thanks!

What is the diameter?

Doh! 22mm

I’ll have to check my box ’o drivers, but that seems to look like one I pulled from an old Trustfire a few years back and replaced it with a buck driver from MTN. I’ll check my box and see if it matches up.

The driver is not as bad ! The fet ( 9926 ) , can stand up to 6.5 A in continuous duty (!) , only the fly back diode and the inductor are on the small side .., changing the SS24 with a SK 54 and the inductor with a bigger one , could give you at least 4.5 A to the led ( of course , reducing the sense resistor R100 , with some resistances , placed in parallel ...) . You will be surprised how robust it is ...

Thanks for the info, Cera! The inductor and shotkey did look like weak links to me. I may try swapping parts and paralleling sense resistors at some point.

Any ideas on how to modify this driver so that it only operates in single mode (high)?

Got a ’scope?

If you wanna go cheap, goggle DSO138 and pick up one.

Then, once fired up, you can poke the pins of the µC when it’s in medium modes (with PWM), and see which pin bounces up’n’down at a few kHz. Crowbar that to whatever represents full-on.

Kinda like crowbarring the common enables of all the 7135s on a 105C and the like to bypass the µC and force it full-on.

Of course, by doing that you’ll also disable LVP and the like, but…

Sorry, no scope and the last time I used one was 55+ years ago in my High School electronics class. I’d swear that the last scope that I used was a WWII surplus unit that had vacuum tubes in it. :smiley:

20bux for the ’138 (w/ leads), 10bux for a case, you’re set. Get the “welded” version that’s complete vs a kit.

Lets you poke’n’prod to your heart’s content.