(prototype) the GT Mini

And it’s not even out yet duuuhhhhh Mikeadoo!! :person_facepalming:

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No need to be sorry I was dumbass when trying to calculate, but thank you for clearing it up. Also thanks to jason and Texas ace for the insight and explanation.

Oops, Texas_Ace is not even on this thread. Looks like you mixed up the two Texans. I did that once myself.

Off the top of my head, I can’t think of any examples. What did you not modify?

should be alot better then c8, almost twice throw i think. C8 has like 70kcd vs minigt 135kcd.



available in the groupbuy July 2018

The proportion looks a bit off on that picture on the box.

Head should be a little bit bigger.

And here I go again being a dumbass
Sorry DB

sexy so gt-mini is the name then, i think its perfect!

The micro USB usb port would be very useful.

Um, well, um, Rey’s brass pineapple and at the moment a Nitecore TM16 are both sitting here in stock form. I don’t tend to modify a Sinner. If that helps. My S1A Baton in copper as well as my Jet-II Pro in copper are unmodified. And my Godmes T01. The Sunwayman F10R is still stock too. And my Dad’s Thrunite Titanium, the little twisty, it’s stock. As is my Titanium Olight S1 Baton with my name on it, from the X6/X5 group buy. And my number 62 X6/X5 set are still in the box, put away. :wink: And of 200 lights that’s probably about it. :stuck_out_tongue:

Even my Ti Core from MBI is modified, I put an Australian Opal in it for the switch button and inset a purple tritium vial inside the Opal. :smiley:

But I won’t be modifying the Mini GT (unless of course it needs it. :stuck_out_tongue: )

I think it’s looking great, don’t see why it would need anything as Lumintop is pretty much nailing it. Is changing the emitter to a more preferable tint considered a mod? I don’t ever worry about ordering the right tint as it’s usually so easy to change once the light gets here and is tested. I do like white, pure unadulterated white, no blue, no green, no yellow or orange or brown. Is that so wrong?

Thanks motuus! :smiley:
I want one for sure

Small correction - it will be about 1.4x the throw of a C8. The intensity is doubled, but there is a square root in the equation for throw, so you increase the throw by SQRT (2), or about 1.4.

If you want double the C8’s throw, you’ll need about 280,000 cd.

These numbers seem a bit suspicious. What C8 does 70kcd? Is it one with a xm-l2 or one with xpl-hi?

The Convoy C8 with xpl-hi and 2.8A driver surely wouldn’t have half the candela, would it?

The output difference would be about 350 lumen and the reflector is 5mm bigger in diameter. Is that enough to double the candela?

Mortuus meant twice the candela, not twice the throw.

Just to clear things up on my end of it matters. I was comparing to a Thorfire C8s. Their newest C8s. I don’t have a Convoy C8s. Not 100% sure what the difference is.

Stock Thorfire C8s vs. mini GT

Candela is brightness? Tint? I’m confused about that and drawing a blank right now :person_facepalming:

Thorfire C8s uses the xml2 with dome, so bigger hotspot and less throw compared to dedomed version. It and Convoy both have 2.8A drivers. I would suspect the stock C8s to have that 70kcd number, though I don’t know off hand.

So compared to the C8s, the GT Mini has maybe 300 more lumen (2.8A vs 4.5A), a 5mm bigger reflector diameter and a dedomed emitter. This might give it double the candela.

70kcd = 529 meters (x 1.4 = 740 meters)
135kcd = 735 meters

So you would definitely see further with the GT Mini.

(This is all just theory off the top of my head)

Thanks Jason! So how does this group buy thing work? I know I got to put my name on some list but IDK how to do that :frowning:

cd = candela. kcd = kilocandela = 1000 candela.

Candela is a measure of light intensity. The two basic characteristics we measure for an LED are output (in lumens) and intensity (in candela). The lumens measure how much total light is being emitted, while the intensity measures how intense the light is in single spot. So you can have high lumens, but if they are spread over a large area, the intensity will be low. Or you can have low total output, but really focus it in a tight beam and still get high intensity.

Once you know the intensity at the front of the light, you can calculate the maximum effective distance, since intensity decreases predictably with distance. The ANSI standard says you need at least 0.25 cd to illuminate an object. So to find the distance at which the intensity drops below this level, the equation works out to be SQRT (cd/0.25)