Plus one.
These should work
Awesome! I wanted to build something like that, triple with 1 red emitter and 2 white emitter. What driver did you use? Could you give some detail please? Thanks.
This is a âCWF Dragonâ which is a FET+1 but instead of combing the two channels it has a separate pad for the 7135s. I then customized Crescendo where the ramp of the two channels isnât completely parallel and the 7135 channel ramps up and then off then the FET channel ramps up and max. There is a couple frames of overlap between the two channels as it looks a bit odd with the hard switch to the FET channel from the 7135 and vice versa
In the process of changing the LEDâs in a Tiny Monster TM16, took some fitting of 4 individual 20mm MCPCBâs and then I got em glued in with JB Weld (out of Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive) So tomorrow I will wire up the 4 XHP-35âs in parallel and see where itâs at. Should be considerably brighter with a tighter beam profile from the HI style 35âs. I aim to try keeping the thermal resistor in there somewhere so the stock driver functions as intended, will see how that works out.
I did this once before and was seeing around 7200 lumens, the TM16 comes with 4 XM-L2 in series so replacing them with 4 XHP-35 in Parallel actually works out pretty well. (or it did before, hope it does again. lol) In stock form with the XM-L2âs itâs making 4170 lumens with a semi-large hot spot.
Being forgetful as all get out, I had the MCPCBâs fitted and glued in before I realized they needed emitters on em. Sure would have been tough re-flowing the 35âs onto the bare boards after the JB Weld set up! lol :person_facepalming:
Yikes!!! :smiling_imp:
Quick and dirty inspired by djozz:
Itâs 8 gauge solid copper âwireâ
Tested w/ a LED4Power 12A driver and got 11.5A - I think thatâs accurate enough?
Since I have to help my Aunt in the morning, I got the TM16 assembled this evening. Quad XHP-35 up and running, thermistor has glue drying to hold it in place. I really donât enjoy soldering leads on those tiny things!
I have Convoy XP centering rings on the MCPCBâs at the moment to help hold pressure down onto the still setting MCPCBâs, those will either have to be shaved or removed to get proper focus so I know the beam isnât correct as it stands, but it sure is bright! Iâll try it in the lightbox before I go to bed, give the dollop of JB Weld some time to set up on that little thermistor before I upend it into the box.
Ow the famous Dragon as I predict⌠unfortunately Charles didnât sell single driver, 5 driver per lot which is very expensive. Very nice job anyway, and definitely sound complicated .
Simple build, Sofirn C8F, XPL HI V2 1A and TA driver with NarsilâŚ
Nothing extreme here but this host is a real bargain at $13 (spent twice that money into the components) Considerably brighter than my X6 with triple XPL. Probably selling this one when the 21700 version releases.
Modded a glaree E03 with a 5700k 219b. The tint was ugly. I dedomed it and lost some of the phosphor but it looks fine (for now)
Before
After
Lost phosphor
!{height:300px; width:200px}https://i.imgur.com/P8A7nJG.jpg!
Blue Sofirn SP10b
I performed the following mods on this light:
- Replaced driver with 17mm Mountain Electronics driver with D4 firmware.
- Replaced stock microswitch with a different one
- Replaced stock aluminum star with a copper Noctigon (16mm star filed down to 14mm)
- Replaced stock emitter with XPL HI 4000K 5D
- Wire bypass performed on both head and tailcap springs (with copper disk added at the top of each spring to protect the wire bypassâ solder.
- Aluminum ring glued around top of external switch button. Converts the raised pushbutton into a flush pushbutton. Greatly minimizes chances of accidental pocket activation when lockout is not used.
- Replaced stock lens with UCL lens from Flashlightlens.com
Not a hard mod as Iâve done this before previously on a black SP10 and on a Thofire TK05. However, I quite like the look of the blue anodizing on this one.
How did you get the ring off? I could never get the ring off.
How did you get the ring off? I could never get the ring off.
Which ring?
If you mean the SP10Bâs driver retaining ring I did it the usual way:
- Wrap head of the light in 3M indoor stairway grip tape. This is a very sticky and grippy rubber tape that provides great grip, yet peels off cleanly when done.
- Then I just used Snap-ring pliers inserted into the slots in the ring and turned and off it came.
If you mean the metal switch-boot retaining ring, I didnât remove it. I just glued a new ring on top of the old one with arctic alumina.
Bought one of the latest batch of BLF-348âs from Gearbest and found out they are putting 219Câs in them instead of the advertised 219B 45K so I put in a Samsung LH351D instead. I think the dome is a little too big but i got it together and it looks fine so, good enough.
Also flashed my D4 with Anduril thanks to some extra inspiration from user goshdogit - now to do some temp calibration cause this thing got WAY hotter than I expected so the temp must be way off.
I got my new Titanium Emisar D4 and itâs a beaut! The copper head section is superbly made and finished, the battery tube has a square checkering for knurling, just all in all a very well done little light! And the 219Câs make 3100 lumens at start on a VTC6, works for me! I really want it to have Anduril like all my others but I am loathe to disassemble this beauty. Itâs so deserving of candlelight though, and the ability to limit the ceiling on the ramp works magic to handle all the heat, so Iâll probably end up taking it apart anyway and getting it converted.
Thing of beauty though, for sure, well done Hank!
Firelight2, my snap ring pliers don't fit in there. Where did you get them? I got mine at harbor freight.
Reflowed 2 * sm403 and 2 * sm503 (from virence.com) and installed it into the grey D4. Changed lens to carclo 10621 narrow spot. Also flashed anduril.2018-06-27.EMISAR_D4.hex. Result: beautiful ~4600K, to my eyes slightly below BBL.
Hi guys!
I hadnât touched a light (other than using them) in a while and got the itch to mod something. First off sorry for the low res pics, having a flagship phone with an amazing camera is no longer something my wife and I care to partake in, to much more important stuff in life than keeping up with Samsung / Apple⌠Hints why I have to take pics outdoors lol.
So first is my OLD 47âs quark, this light was my EDC for YEARS till the driver stopped working, well I lost my S41 EDC I had replaced the quark with in a tree a few weeks ago (BTW Iâm an arborist now, fun career change) so I had to order a replacement and itâs on the slow boat so needing a suitable EDC and wanting to revive the trusty old girl I built this
Looking elegant as ever lol
Specs are shaved down 20mm driver with bistro, N219b 4000k emitter on noctigon shaved to 14mm, tail spring bypass (no driver spring, just a button contact). Best part; no more bright âpre-flashâ at power up in moonlight mode!
That was the most recently put together one, this next one is the first light I had built in probably 2 years. This was a rebuild after the 22 to 17mm driver adapter PCB I originally used gave out.
My JAX Z1, now sporting a real 22mm driver from MTN running bistro with an SST-40 6500k (definitely not my tint choice but shear lumens are fun), mcpcb soldered to pill.
Next was just to see if I could, another old old 47âs (again from back before they spelled out 47âs), this time a Preon P1 that had lived in the ash tray of an 02 Subaru that hasnât ran since 2015 sitting in the sun with an alkileak in it⌠Managed to clean it up inside first then I swapped a xpl onto the tiny 10mm MCPCB then thatâs where things got complicated, the stock driver circuitry remains but controlling is it the low voltage variant 13A wired dead bug style onto the factory boost driver. As was the original itâs AAA primary / NiMH only but atleast itâs setup with a usable UI with 3 well spaced modes and no blink crap. As far as the technical aspect itâs without a doubt one of my most advanced builds just cause of size alone, the wires to the pins on the dead bugged ATTiny are iterally only a few mm long each.
Note the red dot is on the glass, not the reflector. It was an indexing mark I just havenât alcoholed off yet.
Next I finally replaced the P60 on my AR15 with a convoy M2. Itâs a basic build with an XPL, dual (and bypassed) springs at the head and tail for shock resistance and my same old gun light UI (single mode unless you double click faster than 0.1s then it comes on in a variable 18-22khz strobe)
Forgot to take a pic of this one, Iâll edit it in later, maybe, if I remember to get to it.
Finally, like the Preon above this was another âjust cause I canâ build. Olight S10 triple with 2 XPL for brightness and a Nichia 219b to add some CRI with diffuser film on the glass plus a wide, frosted optic to try to mix the beam as much as possible. Unmodded driver as I didnât have any complaints about the UI and was more concerned about usable runtime than brightness plus that allows it to run safely off 123 primaries still, something not typically possible in a hot-rodded triple.
On the modding topic I have a few more builds in my queue:
I need to rebuild my old Sinner Al custom host, it hasnât ran for a year now but with a little help from Sulman Iâve managed to source a new Judco switch and plan to go to a single emitter behind a TIR once that switch gets in (really had to do some begging to digikey to let me order a single one and they canât give me a tentative date when I might expect it. Had I needed 5000pcs theyâd be here in a week lol).
I also have my lumintop SD10 BLF edition on my bench now, itâs become a favorite work light of mine and in my work (tree climbing) when I do need a light I usually need a heavy flooder so itâs being converted to a triple with a ledil CUTE triple and one of those 35mm triple XP noctigon with 3x XPLâs. I donât mind the UI so my plan is to play with the stock driver at first to retain the battery options, if a resistor mod doesnât net me enough of a current boost Iâll consider replacing it once itâs running.