What did you mod today?

Quick and dirty inspired by djozz:

It’s 8 gauge solid copper “wire”

Tested w/ a LED4Power 12A driver and got 11.5A - I think that’s accurate enough?

Since I have to help my Aunt in the morning, I got the TM16 assembled this evening. Quad XHP-35 up and running, thermistor has glue drying to hold it in place. I really don’t enjoy soldering leads on those tiny things!

I have Convoy XP centering rings on the MCPCB’s at the moment to help hold pressure down onto the still setting MCPCB’s, those will either have to be shaved or removed to get proper focus so I know the beam isn’t correct as it stands, but it sure is bright! :slight_smile: I’ll try it in the lightbox before I go to bed, give the dollop of JB Weld some time to set up on that little thermistor before I upend it into the box. :wink:

Ow the famous Dragon as I predict… unfortunately Charles didn’t sell single driver, 5 driver per lot which is very expensive. Very nice job anyway, and definitely sound complicated .

Enogear Copper AA Cube Samsung LH351D 4000K 90 CRI, FET driver.

Simple build, Sofirn C8F, XPL HI V2 1A and TA driver with Narsil…

Nothing extreme here but this host is a real bargain at $13 (spent twice that money into the components) Considerably brighter than my X6 with triple XPL. Probably selling this one when the 21700 version releases.

Modded a glaree E03 with a 5700k 219b. The tint was ugly. I dedomed it and lost some of the phosphor but it looks fine (for now)

Before

After

Lost phosphor

!{height:300px; width:200px}https://i.imgur.com/P8A7nJG.jpg!

Blue Sofirn SP10b

I performed the following mods on this light:

  • Replaced driver with 17mm Mountain Electronics driver with D4 firmware.
  • Replaced stock microswitch with a different one
  • Replaced stock aluminum star with a copper Noctigon (16mm star filed down to 14mm)
  • Replaced stock emitter with XPL HI 4000K 5D
  • Wire bypass performed on both head and tailcap springs (with copper disk added at the top of each spring to protect the wire bypass’ solder.
  • Aluminum ring glued around top of external switch button. Converts the raised pushbutton into a flush pushbutton. Greatly minimizes chances of accidental pocket activation when lockout is not used.
  • Replaced stock lens with UCL lens from Flashlightlens.com

Not a hard mod as I’ve done this before previously on a black SP10 and on a Thofire TK05. However, I quite like the look of the blue anodizing on this one.

How did you get the ring off? I could never get the ring off.

Which ring?

If you mean the SP10B’s driver retaining ring I did it the usual way:

  • Wrap head of the light in 3M indoor stairway grip tape. This is a very sticky and grippy rubber tape that provides great grip, yet peels off cleanly when done.
  • Then I just used Snap-ring pliers inserted into the slots in the ring and turned and off it came.

If you mean the metal switch-boot retaining ring, I didn’t remove it. I just glued a new ring on top of the old one with arctic alumina.

Bought one of the latest batch of BLF-348’s from Gearbest and found out they are putting 219C’s in them instead of the advertised 219B 45K so I put in a Samsung LH351D instead. I think the dome is a little too big but i got it together and it looks fine so, good enough.

Also flashed my D4 with Anduril thanks to some extra inspiration from user goshdogit - now to do some temp calibration cause this thing got WAY hotter than I expected so the temp must be way off.

I got my new Titanium Emisar D4 and it’s a beaut! The copper head section is superbly made and finished, the battery tube has a square checkering for knurling, just all in all a very well done little light! And the 219C’s make 3100 lumens at start on a VTC6, works for me! I really want it to have Anduril like all my others but I am loathe to disassemble this beauty. It’s so deserving of candlelight though, and the ability to limit the ceiling on the ramp works magic to handle all the heat, so I’ll probably end up taking it apart anyway and getting it converted.

Thing of beauty though, for sure, well done Hank! :smiley:

Firelight2, my snap ring pliers don't fit in there. Where did you get them? I got mine at harbor freight.

Reflowed 2 * sm403 and 2 * sm503 (from virence.com) and installed it into the grey D4. Changed lens to carclo 10621 narrow spot. Also flashed anduril.2018-06-27.EMISAR_D4.hex. Result: beautiful ~4600K, to my eyes slightly below BBL.

Album with pictures

Hi guys!

I hadn’t touched a light (other than using them) in a while and got the itch to mod something. First off sorry for the low res pics, having a flagship phone with an amazing camera is no longer something my wife and I care to partake in, to much more important stuff in life than keeping up with Samsung / Apple… Hints why I have to take pics outdoors lol.

So first is my OLD 47’s quark, this light was my EDC for YEARS till the driver stopped working, well I lost my S41 EDC I had replaced the quark with in a tree a few weeks ago (BTW I’m an arborist now, fun career change) so I had to order a replacement and it’s on the slow boat so needing a suitable EDC and wanting to revive the trusty old girl I built this

Looking elegant as ever lol


Specs are shaved down 20mm driver with bistro, N219b 4000k emitter on noctigon shaved to 14mm, tail spring bypass (no driver spring, just a button contact). Best part; no more bright “pre-flash” at power up in moonlight mode!

That was the most recently put together one, this next one is the first light I had built in probably 2 years. This was a rebuild after the 22 to 17mm driver adapter PCB I originally used gave out.

My JAX Z1, now sporting a real 22mm driver from MTN running bistro with an SST-40 6500k (definitely not my tint choice but shear lumens are fun), mcpcb soldered to pill.


Next was just to see if I could, another old old 47’s (again from back before they spelled out 47’s), this time a Preon P1 that had lived in the ash tray of an 02 Subaru that hasn’t ran since 2015 sitting in the sun with an alkileak in it… Managed to clean it up inside first then I swapped a xpl onto the tiny 10mm MCPCB then that’s where things got complicated, the stock driver circuitry remains but controlling is it the low voltage variant 13A wired dead bug style onto the factory boost driver. As was the original it’s AAA primary / NiMH only but atleast it’s setup with a usable UI with 3 well spaced modes and no blink crap. As far as the technical aspect it’s without a doubt one of my most advanced builds just cause of size alone, the wires to the pins on the dead bugged ATTiny are iterally only a few mm long each.


Note the red dot is on the glass, not the reflector. It was an indexing mark I just haven’t alcoholed off yet.

Next I finally replaced the P60 on my AR15 with a convoy M2. It’s a basic build with an XPL, dual (and bypassed) springs at the head and tail for shock resistance and my same old gun light UI (single mode unless you double click faster than 0.1s then it comes on in a variable 18-22khz strobe)

Forgot to take a pic of this one, I’ll edit it in later, maybe, if I remember to get to it.

Finally, like the Preon above this was another “just cause I can” build. Olight S10 triple with 2 XPL for brightness and a Nichia 219b to add some CRI with diffuser film on the glass plus a wide, frosted optic to try to mix the beam as much as possible. Unmodded driver as I didn’t have any complaints about the UI and was more concerned about usable runtime than brightness plus that allows it to run safely off 123 primaries still, something not typically possible in a hot-rodded triple.

On the modding topic I have a few more builds in my queue:
I need to rebuild my old Sinner Al custom host, it hasn’t ran for a year now but with a little help from Sulman I’ve managed to source a new Judco switch and plan to go to a single emitter behind a TIR once that switch gets in (really had to do some begging to digikey to let me order a single one and they can’t give me a tentative date when I might expect it. Had I needed 5000pcs they’d be here in a week lol).
I also have my lumintop SD10 BLF edition on my bench now, it’s become a favorite work light of mine and in my work (tree climbing) when I do need a light I usually need a heavy flooder so it’s being converted to a triple with a ledil CUTE triple and one of those 35mm triple XP noctigon with 3x XPL’s. I don’t mind the UI so my plan is to play with the stock driver at first to retain the battery options, if a resistor mod doesn’t net me enough of a current boost I’ll consider replacing it once it’s running.

Nice mods, Cereal_killer. How does S10 beam look like?

Nice! :+1: I’m glad you gave it another try.

Build a wall mount for my new lab power supply

replacing the old 40V 5A

new features for driver testing

also it can measure the voltage on the crocodile clamp build like a Kelvin clamp not on the voltage output therminals
Build them myself from a 2.5mm² wire soldered to the clamp and 0.35mm² wire for voltage detection

connected a pretty full battery carrier to it

Simple but eyeball saving emitter swap.
I love flashlights everywhere so I couldn’t resist these inexpensive, roll your own 18650 power banks with built-in flashlight from ebay.
UI is HI/LOW/Flash so that’s a pain, but it’s better than nothing and handy in a pinch.
Tint was so purple it was unusable. Couldn’t find 5000k but found a 10 pack of 4000k emitters for $2.08 from aliexpress.
Looks much better in person, but here’s a cellphone pic:




Got mine at my local OSH. They aren’t great quality snap ring pliers but they did the job.

One option: If you find your snap ring pliers or needle nose pliers aren’t fitting in the holes in the ring, just enlarge the holes.

You can do this by hand with a hobby pin-vise drill, or by using a power drill with small drill bit.

Got a D4 Ti from Emisar with 219C emitters and a short tube for 18350, of course I had to flash the driver with Anduril and go with 18ga leads while I was in there! Ultimately this proved too much, making 3964 lumens pulling 25.2A at the tail… it’d burn the fingers in about 7 seconds in Turbo! With the short tube and smaller cell it’d still make 3001 lumens. The ceiling on the ramp, in default levels, allowed 2000 lumens so this was a nice compromise.

So I pulled the stock (quite thick) MCPCB with it’s Nichia’s and replaced it with an T-Pad from Cutter and 4 XP-L2 5000K emitters that I sliced and diced…

Now it only pulls 13A on the 18350 cell and still makes 3957 lumens! :smiley: The heat is better managed, it’ll still get very hot but it takes longer to become critical and the driver has time to start stepping output down. Out of curiosity I put the longer tube back on and tested the VTC5A that allowed 3964 on the Nichia’s, a whopping 5585 lumens from the XP-L2’s! I won’t be using the light this way, that’s just too much from the small light and the square knurled Ti tube feels and looks great on my black D1s…