(prototype) the GT Mini

Nice, that is exactly what I was thinking given the GT Mini has twice the lumens, no dome and a slightly bigger reflector.

I have zero use for C8 style lights (small throwers) and did not sign up for the mini. Now I think I will. Let me head over to the sign up page.

If I found a host C8 with side switch and xpl-hi plus bought a driver from Lexel to get NarsilM I would be at $40+ I’m sure, then I would have to actually build the thing and it still wouldn’t look as cool as the GT Mini. Lol

Can you make a comparison with a well driven C8? With BLF A6 driver or similar?

if you send me one I can do :D

I am in for 3x

Thanks

Jens

Did you sign up?

The sign-up list is over here.

Thanks for the hint I made.
Super deal you make again.
Many Thanks
greeting
Jens

Interested for 1 mini GT thanks.

See post 274.

Already done JasonWW thanks, this is only for to be sure.

I’m also in for one or two…
In case the budget allows it :wink:

Does the GT mini have current control / stable output?

There aren’t any driver details yet.

The XPL can certainly go higher than 4.5A, so it might not be a FET driver. We will get details eventually.

Question, if the light pushes 1200lumens or more on that emitter, how hard is that pushing the emitter before its getting dangerous ?

XPL-HI are known to do 7.5A and 2000 lumen in raw form. So the GT Mini is not maxing it out.

At 4.5A it can do about 1500 lumen. So in a light with its losses, let’s guess 20%, you get about 1200 lumen. So the lumen numbers seem realistic.

(This is according to Koef3’s tests)

Never seen an XP-L HI get close to 2000 lumens. But I’ve only used a few hundred of em, might not have gotten a good batch. :wink:

Edit: To answer the question, I’ve been pushing the XP-L and it’s HI variants as hard as Li-ion power supplies can drive them ever since Cree made them available. Haven’t had one fail to date. I use the XP-L HI for a mile+ thrower at 6.49A, not a problem.

Edit II: Jason, it’s confusing enough when the Chinese manufacturer’s use emitter lumens to quote their lights, please refrain from that practice as it only complicates things for new people with questions. :wink: Now, I HAVE seen an XP-L W2 HD make over 2000 lumens in a flashlight, and of course the XP-L2 can surpass that and does, easily taking amperage that would fry anything else in it’s Cree family (XP-XM class). [The XP-L W2 was a rare bird, don’t know if any are still available]

This is the raw led in an integrating sphere with a power supply and good cooling.

Once you put it in a flashlight you get all the associated losses.

Here is Koef3’s review. I’m almost positive he uses a professionally calibrated integrating sphere.

.

Irrelevant dude, it can’t come close in a flashlight powered by Li-ion cells. If it can’t do it in our lights, why even bother to quote it?

And you still haven’t learned how to properly size an image for sharing? :person_facepalming:

This is how we compare leds.

I chose 150% to make it a bit easier to read.

Somebody woke up grumpy. Lol

Edit: Okay, I’ll shrink it to 100% to make you happy.

I just learned on the sign up thread that the GT MINI uses a 17W 4.5A buck driver.

They released the manual for it earlier and this was the info inside.

We, who? Bench tested bare emitters don’t really give us that much of an idea towards the end result in a flashlight, especially the new folks asking the questions. Quote lab results to manufacturer’s if you wish, real world for real world people. :wink:

Not grumpy at all, but 100% should be a max size for all those folks viewing on phone screens. It sizes the picture to fit the screen being viewed upon, which is important for all the phone users. At 150% it was even larger than my 24” monitor.

And, to make it clear, here’s a photo of the Uni-T clamp meter and my lux meter with the Lumintop ODL 20C sporting an FET driver and Anduril through an XP-L V3 3A emitter with 18ga leads and a copper negative battery contact freshly cleaned with de-oxit gold…

Since you state that my light box is 30% over, please explain how the .345 multiplication factor gives 1390 lumens at 6.12A tail current from a fresh charged Shockli 26650 5500mAh. How would laboratory settings numbers give us any idea what real world numbers would be? Hence, lab supported numbers (especially overdriven) are just confusing and misleading. There are lens losses, reflector losses, driver losses, lead wire and switch losses, as well as heat and battery sag issues. So anyone new to this asking such a question as was asked is being highly misled by quoted laboratory results. Does the long explanation help?