Nice, that is exactly what I was thinking given the GT Mini has twice the lumens, no dome and a slightly bigger reflector.
I have zero use for C8 style lights (small throwers) and did not sign up for the mini. Now I think I will. Let me head over to the sign up page.
If I found a host C8 with side switch and xpl-hi plus bought a driver from Lexel to get NarsilM I would be at $40+ I’m sure, then I would have to actually build the thing and it still wouldn’t look as cool as the GT Mini. Lol
Never seen an XP-L HI get close to 2000 lumens. But I’ve only used a few hundred of em, might not have gotten a good batch.
Edit: To answer the question, I’ve been pushing the XP-L and it’s HI variants as hard as Li-ion power supplies can drive them ever since Cree made them available. Haven’t had one fail to date. I use the XP-L HI for a mile+ thrower at 6.49A, not a problem.
Edit II: Jason, it’s confusing enough when the Chinese manufacturer’s use emitter lumens to quote their lights, please refrain from that practice as it only complicates things for new people with questions. Now, I HAVE seen an XP-L W2 HD make over 2000 lumens in a flashlight, and of course the XP-L2 can surpass that and does, easily taking amperage that would fry anything else in it’s Cree family (XP-XM class). [The XP-L W2 was a rare bird, don’t know if any are still available]
We, who? Bench tested bare emitters don’t really give us that much of an idea towards the end result in a flashlight, especially the new folks asking the questions. Quote lab results to manufacturer’s if you wish, real world for real world people.
Not grumpy at all, but 100% should be a max size for all those folks viewing on phone screens. It sizes the picture to fit the screen being viewed upon, which is important for all the phone users. At 150% it was even larger than my 24” monitor.
And, to make it clear, here’s a photo of the Uni-T clamp meter and my lux meter with the Lumintop ODL 20C sporting an FET driver and Anduril through an XP-L V3 3A emitter with 18ga leads and a copper negative battery contact freshly cleaned with de-oxit gold…
Since you state that my light box is 30% over, please explain how the .345 multiplication factor gives 1390 lumens at 6.12A tail current from a fresh charged Shockli 26650 5500mAh. How would laboratory settings numbers give us any idea what real world numbers would be? Hence, lab supported numbers (especially overdriven) are just confusing and misleading. There are lens losses, reflector losses, driver losses, lead wire and switch losses, as well as heat and battery sag issues. So anyone new to this asking such a question as was asked is being highly misled by quoted laboratory results. Does the long explanation help?