GB 351D closed.

125K colder I think they mean, young padawan. The first batch was a T7 tint, which is slightly below 4K (between 3875K and 4000K, as I see it):

Cheers ^:)

Okay, now I’m really not getting it. T7 is mostly below the BBL, and people were saying there were still hints of green like typische 219Cs, and that these were a tad nicer and rosier.

I mean, hey, I like the nekkid tint of 4C Crees, and those are above the BBL, so I’m not complaining, but if these’d be a different CT/tint, I wouldn’t mind springing for more… if there would be an actual tangible difference.

Frankly, the 351Bs look really nice for triple/quads if you wanna make lanterns out of ’em. Think I pointed people at the bunched quads from AX, and got some regular triples from Illumn, so I might just “need” some more Bs to fill ’em up. :smiley:

F2T6Q2?

F2 voltage bin: 2.8 - 3.0V

T6 chromaticity region: 4000 - 4125K

Q2 flux: 340 - 360 lumens at 1.05A, 85°C.

They're indeed super close to the previous batch. :THUMBS-UP:

Cheers ^:)

To my advanced organic :-D photon detectors the tint of the LH351D in my close range 30° TIR S2+ flashlight is just about perfect. I wouldn't say it has the slightest hint of any tint (just checked it right now); 0K, maybe a gnat's ass of red but almost unnoticeable.

Cheers :-)

I will take some red any day of the week, Green is what I can’t stand. I can’t even use 219C’s anymore due to the green hue. Once you have seen it, you can’t un-see it. :weary:

Checked it again against another wall: yes, very very slight rosy tint, more noticeable in high mode (3A) around the “corona”. But it's subtle, as you may understand. If I were to be telling this to some philistine in these matters fellow, he/she would probably say “WTF?”.

However, not all emitters are equal and slight tint differences may be found among them.

Cheers ^:)

Hi

I want additional 10x 351B 3000K 90cri

:person_with_crown:

This new batch is T6 bin slightly colder than the first T7 batch. To me that’s getting closer to my perfect preferred temp 4500k.

Ain’t that da troof…

First got my 47s Quark, grexed about because of the green tint, I was looking, “Nah, doesn’t look ‘green’…”, expecting something like a true green XP-E or something.

Then I see some nice neutral tints, with not a hint of green, got used to them, saw my Quark… ugh.

Spent a small fortune on 2 of them plus a shorty tube, and I haven’t even had a cell in any of them in at least a coupla years.

I played with these ’351s, and I like ’em… a lot! :smiley:

Yep, me too. 4500k is my ideal as well.

If these are just over 4000k and are rosy, they sound like the next best thing though! My biggest worry was they might be green. Since they appear to be rosy instead, I am now at a point of seeing how much money I can spare lol.

Anyone want to buy my XHP70.2 GT?

In for 10 LH351D 90 cri T6 :slight_smile:

Nice to see you here Texas Ace.

Time will tell how the tint lottery turns out for Samsung LEDs.

Is the 3000k from the new or the old batch? Very interested in these.

351Bs have always been 3000k in this group buy.


T6 chromaticity coordinate for this new reel. There's no gambling here.

Cheers ^:)

What I meant was the reel, what was on the reel? The 3000k or the 4000k ones?

I also don't know if I get this right, but the forward voltage is higher than other LEDs but its more efficient than 219c by about 30%? What does that mean?

Does it mean that it requires more voltage to turn on, yet it uses less energy once it does so?

It means that to achieve a certain forward voltage, it needs less current to do so, and is more efficient if you can push the voltage.

As an example, the Samsung LH351D 70CRI can push 1000 lumens at 3.23V at 2A, meaning an efficiency of 137 lm/W.

The 219C 90CRI can push 605 lumens at 3.03V 2A, meaning only an efficiency of only 100 lm/W.

The 219C has a much lower forward voltage, and yet, it can put out much less light at the same power level.

If I am reading that correctly, the voltage of the battery will affect the duration of the flashlight's usage. As the battery power drops in voltage, it will stop working before a lower fV led would, but it will take longer to get there. Am I stating that correctly?

There's a direct relationship between battery voltage and state of charge.

In this particular case, a relatively higher Vf led won't stop working before a lower Vf one. For unregulated drivers this just means current reduces, Vf does too… and the torch keeps producing a good deal of light anyway. In case of unregulated (MOSFET and such) drivers actually higher Vf leds result in longer runtimes and higher working efficiency. For regulated drivers it's a bit the other way round, keep in mind that for any given current higher Vf means higher power output, with pretty constant efficiency in this case.

Cheers :-)

Thanks Barkuti! So its better in a FET driver for runtime (and it would mean that less heat would be generated), and its worst in regulated mode.

I guess I will find out how much real life difference it makes. I know one flashlight of mine has a FET, the rest are probably regulated.