I went for the H03 a couple months ago and have been very happy with it.
If you stand it on its end and place it on a table in a darkened room, does it provide a “decent” spread of light across the table?
I think so, as others have noted it’s very floody with the tir lens and it has plenty of modes to choose from. 1200 lumens is a good amount of output.
The magnet in the tailcap is pretty handy too, I’ve taken advantage of that a few times.
Leave it on its side pointed at the ceiling and the whole room will have decent light, without even using highest mode.
A tube light with tail-stand ability is even better for this, because the hot part will not be touching anything.
Inside a room ceiling bounce will give the best light.
I want to use it outdoors though 
What Zulumoose wrote was my first thought as well, but I figured your were asking in the context of outdoor use.
Not sure of your frame of reference, but if you haven’t used an 18650-powered flashlight before, the amount of light they can put out may be a shocker. One of the lower modes will easily light up a table.
hcanning, I’ve got a Armytek Wizard Pro 2300lm if interested?
I’ll drop you a pm.
Skilhunt h03 TIR in neutral white for sure.
It’s plenty floody and the spread is beautiful. I’ve started using one of these for compass map night navigation, it’s fantastic.
You absolutely cannot go wrong unless you’re planning to run with it on your head. Then you need something smaller.
have been seriously considering an h03 to run with.
no good? too heavy?
thanks.
Depends how smooth a runner you are. I think it is the perfect road running light, I just don’t use it because I prefer to keep it good and not to get the headband all sweaty, I use a cheaper but heavier light for running, and find it almost as good, it just has a cooler tint and the flood is not as smooth.
I have an armytek wizard pro warm, I have been using one daily for years. I have worn it out, armytek has replaced it. And even sent me the upgraded model. I recently bought a new one with magnetic charge base.
They are amazing. I have even snorkeled with it on. Very nice beam. You may find it for about $70. https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/multi-flashlights/armytek-wizard-pro-magnet-usb-18650/
Acebeam H15 is floodier and much brighter than the Skilhunt H03. The Olight H2R Nova older batch has good tint but not as floody (recent batch is very ugly green). Armytek Wizards have some of the best looking tint on average and good flood but not as floody as H15, but Wizards have a very premium feel.
You can run Dc-fix on anything and get pure flood….All flood is simple
thanks for the info.
im certainly not a smooth runner, and run trails.
a cool tint doesnt work for me; makes it hard to see
the variations in the terrain.
ive seen some candidates, but im too cheap to
shell out for them.
thanks again. will continue to mull.
For trail running or orienteering I recommend nitecore nu20 CRI. If you need long duration though you’ll need something bigger / replaceable cells.
I use the h03 for long distance stuff where I’m mostly walking
Really? Mine I believe is the newer, with upgraded tail cap (safe), and it has a very decent tint. I got the neutral model.
The tail cap has been upgraded, like said above, to address safety concerns. I never had an issue
+1 on the SH H03 very floody and decent price point, good light, tail stands or magnetic tail. can also double as right angle backpack light with the clip.
How exactly is this going to work? If you stand it up outside, it is not going to light up anything. You need to bounce it off something or use a diffuser.
ive read about the nu20 and it seems like
an excellent candidate.
for no good reason, i thought it might be fun to have an
18650 light if its workable tint and cost wise.
thanks for the info.
Not to go into broken-record mode, but the Boruit RJ02 is dirt cheap, has a built-in charger, takes an 18650 for long runtime, and spits out decent lemons albeit a bit on the cool side, and the screw-on cap atop its included TIR lens lets you swap it for any 20mm TIR lens you want.
For me, 60° is nice and floody for tabletop work, but you can stick in a 90° or even 120° lens for even wider flood (’though with some artifacts, as wide-angle TIRs aren’t perfect).
They’re cheap enough to buy in bulk, and get an assortment of TIR lenses from narrow-spot to wide-flood, and keep them in a ziplock baggie.
I don’t think you wanna use any light for 1000lm for any extended period. It’ll cook itself to death. I once tailstood/tailstanded/whatever an S2+ for only 5-10min in a dark room and couldn’t even grab it long enough to hit the tailswitch to turn it off without grabbing some material to use as a sort of oven-mitt. Unsuspectingly grabbed it, dropped it, couldn’t even poke it from both sides to hit the switch, it was that hot. And even after, I couldn’t pick it up for some time ’til it cooled down. Never want to repeat that again…
Most times I keep the ’02 at or near minimum brightness because that’s usually enough, but a few times I cranked it up to full and had it cooking for a half-hour or more, and it wouldn’t overheat too much. It tops out at something like 300lm (forgot), and that’s usually plenty unless you intend to light up a whole trail in front of you. In other words, don’t get lumenitis and demanding 4-digit lumenage when visually it’s not that much brighter than 250-300.