The new centering ring that will come with the kit should focus the light, although the xhp70.2 has a lot of adjustment room depending on if you want maximum throw or least dark spot in the middle of the beam.
So it is possible that people may want to refocus it anyways for their own preference but I do not expect lumintop to offer different centering ring options and they have not confirmed with me what focus they are going with.
I have some 3D printed centering rings I could release for people to print out if needed. or I could sell the rings themselves as well worst case.
I do not think spare centering rings will be an option.
It will have a circle in the middle, square centering rings can cause issues like snapping the LED off the mcpcb when tightening the reflector if it grabs for some reason.
It should be 20AWG wires like the normal GT.
The Amps will depend on the exact LED they find, which is why they are not listed yet. In my testing I have seen 9-10A being the normal range with 8 full high drain cells.
It should survive fine, the resistance of the springs in the carriers drops the power so the max current should only be ~10A or so depending on the LED selected. This is quite reasonable and many have driven it this hard or harder. It actually makes peak output at around ~12A so driving it harder could see slightly higher numbers.
The 250 watts is simply what the driver has been tested to with multiple xhp70.2 LED’s connected. In this light with a single LED it is around 130-150w.
As long as the LED’s are properly reflowed to the mcpcb (which they should be) and thermal paste is used between the mcpcb and the shelf, it should not have a problem.
I have run the prototype light on turbo until the cells died and it had no issues even though it got to 91C.
If you are worried you can simply not use turbo and only use the top of the ramp which has a lower max power.
At the same time as the lights are ready. We have no final timeline at this point although I hope for it to not take longer then 3 months. Ideally they will be ready in 1-2 months but just too early to know right now.
Count me in for the Upgrade Kit. I would love to upgrade my GT to XHP70.2 but I still have to find a way to open it. I tried it a couple of times but all tries were unsuccessful. I even broke the locking mechanismen of my vice by tightening it to hard. But this damn cheap vice just would not stop to rotate while I tried to open the head by turning it with a bicycle tube for grip. However it seems like time for a bigger and better vice :D
What am I missing with the extra reflector option? I understand how a lens can break or get scuffed but it seems the reflector is pretty specific to this light and not much risk of being damaged… Considering how many people seem to want one I must be missing something though so feel free to point it out to me.
It is basically a chance to get a 120mm reflector for custom builds. Many many people asked for it in the first group buy but since they could not even get enough reflectors for the group buy lights obviously they could not sell them separately.
I promised to try and make the reflectors available later and this is me following through on that promise.
There is really no need for an extra reflector for most people.
What would be cool is if Lumintop could offer a “premium” version of the reflector. Slow cut, hand sanded to a super smooth finish. It adds time and money, but maybe there are buyers?
Yeah, I don’t see them offering a better reflector, they had enough trouble getting this quality. The reflector itself is actually fine, the only issue is the coating process and it is quite difficult to get reflectors this large coated perfectly. Better sanding would really not help much.
With the right rigid work and tool support, chip evacuation, coolant/lubricity, speeds/feeds/ tool geometry negative/positive/zero and tool tip radius PCD is the way to go to obtain Micro Finish Surfaces with alloy’s. Most don’t even hone cylinders/crank/cam bores any more, they are Micro Sized and Finished with Diamond PCD runners and plain (within a certain lubricity) coolant. Aluminum cam caps on Overhead cam heads single point PCD boring (semi finish) with micro finish carbide,diamond encrusted runners (mirror finish) (Mapal) brand name we use. No more Stones and Honing oil.
All for naught if you cant prep the surface and apply the coatings correctly……
Opening the head is a matter of brute force unscrewing it from the switch area. No tricks to it, just brute force.
I would not cound on a manual for the conversion kit, they are hesitant enough about even offering them for sale and would love any excuse to not sell them.
Far as the level of knowlage needed, this is one of those cases where if you have to ask, you might not want to attempt it.
A basic rundown is:
remove driver retaining ring
Remove switch retaining ring
Remove head/reflectore
desolder the LED wires from the driver or mcpcb
remove the driver and mcpcb
reverse the process.
The hardest part is opening the light followed by soldering to the mcpcb. This can be quite difficult if you do not have a good and very hot iron.
I plan to bypass all of the springs, but I’m wondering if it’s advisable to wire/braid bypass at least the main contact spring when doing the mod kit upgrade?
Bypassing all the springs it is unknown how the LED will handle that. It is possible it could be over-driven then. I would not recommend it.
I am not sure what you mean by the main contact spring? Talking about the “button top” spring on the carriers? Yes, if you were to only bypass 1 spring that would be the one to bypass.
