Review: ROFIS MR70

Probably the battery. Is it fully charged?

It was, but I just charged it fully and now it’s better, but it was only down 1/3 or so.

What is your definition of 1/3?

Being a boost driver, it pulls a lot of current from the battery. I’m told the stock battery has a protection circuit added on and those typically cause extra voltage sag.

For the longest usage of turbo you need a good high drain unprotected battery. A Liitokala 5000 or Shockli 5500 for instance.

I totally agree. I have a Wuben T102 Pro and it came with a protected cell. I inserted my unprotected Shockli 5500 mah cell and it was an instant performance increase. Not sure if the Rofis cell is protected because I’m still waiting for mine. The South African postal service is on strike AGAIN so further delays. Fuuuuuu*#!

The bundled cell of MR70 is actually an unrpotected PLB INR26650-55A (yes, a simple re-wrap), which is, the same cell core used in Shockli 5500mAh. I’m a bit surprised that no one ever pointed this out…

This is odd, I was told this:

From this post.

I found a picture with the stock orange battery next to a unprotected KeepPower and they look the same length.

So I’m not sure what to think. Maybe Rofis uses 2 different batteries, one protected and one not?

69.6mm x 26.8mm

Ah, so they have 2 different batteries.

Funnily enough, that’s what brought me back to the thread, just noticed mine is stepping down after only a couple of seconds and I don’t remember it doing that before…

I have the protected battery version.

If only that Official Litikala Store on Aliexpress would have shipped my 4 26650's faster, 7 weeks so far, I'm in the UK.

When they come ill do some amp testing on my MR70, only other highish capacity cell I have is the one out of my Thrunite Catapult V6 which is also protected.

I was just helping somebody with the same problem on either MR70 or MR50. The thing about these boost drivers is that there very sensitive to resistance. Make sure to clean the battery ends as well as the contact area on the springs. The person that had the problem was able to fix it by cleaning their driver spring as it had some debris or oil or something on it.

I little bit of extra resistance will cause the driver to pull a lot more amps which will cause the light to step down to a lower level.

The protection circuitry in these batteries makes the light more likely two step down to a lower level prematurely compared to an unprotected high drain battery.

The MR70 cell won’t even fit in the Thrunite Catapult V6, but when I tested the Thrunite cell in the MR70, it didn’t even seem to go into Turbo mode, couldn’t discern any difference from high!

This did it for me, cleaned the cell and it’s back to normal! :slight_smile:

Cool. :+1:

Amazing… I was just about to complain about my MR70. I cleaned all possible contact points and it’s working fine again. I’m even considering a spring bypass in the tail cap. Thanks!

On the 5th turbo run with about 3-5min breaks where I turned the light off, I start noticing subtle output drops in turbo before it steps down to the 1500 lumen mode. On the 9th Turbo run it jumps into turbo for about 2 seconds then drops straight to high mode. Resting cell voltage (Rofis protected cell) is 3.92 V. With the Shockli it does the same but cell resting voltage is 3.78 V.

Does anyone know if this is normal behavior? All contacts were properly cleaned every time a open the light to test the voltage. It seems as if the boost driver just refuses to run turbo when the cell drops to below 3.5 V (I’m guessing) due to voltage sag.

Yes, it’s normal. Boost drivers are very sensitive to voltage. As voltage drops, the current has to be increased to compensate. Once it starts to draw too much current the driver has to switch to a lower output mode.

Protected cells always add a little resistance which lowers their voltage to the driver. Boost driver lights always run better on unprotected cells with minimal voltage loss on the springs. So double springs or spring bypasses are always recommended.

Am I wrong or does this topic perfectly matches with my thread about the MR30 and my dispute with ROFIS / Banggood's CS team?

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/53709

FWIW, Imalent's DN70 boost driver can draw 11.5 amps from the battery and maintains turbo until cell's voltage is down 3.1V, i.e. until the LVP is being triggered. Comparing this to ROFIS' sh***y boost driver that's quite a difference.

Alright JasonWW. I’m gonna play around a bit with copper braid to see if I can somehow reduce the resistance in the tail. It’s still a bit disappointing that I can barely get 5 proper turbo blasts…

Do you know how the Lumintop ODF30/C, Olight R50 Pro Seeker, or other single 26650 XHP70/70.2 compares to the MR70?

Nope. XHP70.2 and boost driver combo can’t be compared to the MR30 with XHP35 and boost driver. XHP70.2 draws a lot of current in turbo. As I tested already, the cell makes a difference, and cleaning the contacts. The MR70 just runs into voltage sag faster. Your MR30 doesn’t seem to be defective. Your cell might be though. 5 full Turbo runs of 3500 lumens on the stock cell ain’t that bad I guess. Other cells just perform a bit better.