If the long tube can take it, Iāll probably bore it for a 20700 or 21700, depending of course if it can take either. I have a couple of XP-L HI V3 3A bare emitters and some boards, might even slice an Samsung LH351D like I did yesterday. Iāll figure it out, one way or 3 othersā¦
(Edit: Come to think on it, I DO have another SBT-70 left overā¦. )
Thanks Daleā¦ā¦
Let us know how hard it is go get the glued in driver out tooā¦ .
Hopefully the bezel & battery tube will not be glued. :person_facepalming: .
Does anyone have details about the driver, like the circuit design and ideally also source code? If itās using NarsilM, there should be code for the GT-Mini version available since itās a derivative work of a GPL-licensed project.
Code would be the most helpful thing for getting Anduril to run on it. An actual working unit with an unglued driver would help too, but probably isnāt necessary if there is reference code.
There are several different units in common use, and all of them are called a ālumenā:
The main one is the ANSI standard lumen. Maukka has calibrated equipment which uses this scale. I think djozz may be using it too.
The most common on BLF is the Zebralight/cpfselfbuilt lumen scale. It usually runs about 40% higher than ANSI lumens, so a 100-ANSI-lumen light will typically read about 140 lumens on a zebraselfbuilt scale. I think this is what Iāve been using, since I calibrated my light box to match selfbuiltās numbers and Zebralightās numbers. I think itās also what DB Custom uses, and several of the other modders here on BLF.
Texas_Ace light tube lumens. I hear these may be higher still, but I donāt know the details.
Every other personās home-calibrated light box. These all differ from each other, so the numbers are only really comparable to other measurements by that same person.
Additionally, there are other factors making this more complicated:
Emitter lumens vs OTF (out the front) lumens. A bare emitter measures higher than one housed inside a flashlight with various optics. I think this may have been the origin of the Zebraselfbuilt scale, in part. The OTF Zebra lumens are often pretty close to the ANSI OTF lumens, at least in some lights.
Measurement timing. Numbers measured at start are usually higher than measured at the ANSI-standard timing of 30 seconds.
Sag. Output sags over time in a lot of lights. ANSI runtimes technically go until the light sags to 10%, IIRC, but this value is misleading. 3 hours at 1000 lumens may actually be 3 minutes at 1000 lumens and then 2h at 200 lumens, then 57 minutes at 101 lumens.
āChinese lumens / Ultrafire lumensā. Marketing people like to make up numbers to try to make lights sell better, especially on cheap items. Often times theyāll take the emitterās maximum rated ANSI emitter lumen output and claim the product does two or three times as much. This number has very little relation to actual real-world performance.
From what I can tell, the GT-Mini will probably make about 1200 OTF Zebra lumens, slightly less than the Emisar D1Sās 1300-1350 OTF Zebra lumens. The number is probably lower on an ANSI OTF scale though. And itās almost certainly not 2000, unless we count Ultrafire lumensā¦ in which case itād probably be about 2500 to 4000.
It may be totally unnecessary. The manual indicates itās running NarsilM 1.2, I think. It might be totally unmodified from whatās on the big GT.
If thatās the case, everything might ājust workā. So, definitely try it firstā¦ Also, I may be travelling for a while and may not be able to receive packages or get much done. So I hope things will work as-is without any changes.
Iām not too familiar with the Zebralight/cpfselfbuilt lumen scale.
DB Custom, Robo819, Richard at MTN and Tom E use the Manxbuggy1ās lumen tubes which I think are only 10% to 15% higher than Maukkaās readings. (certain throwy lights might be a bit higher due to no diffusers in the design)
Texas_Aceās personal lumen tube did read a bit higher than the ones above. About 30% higher than Maukkaās. After getting some reference lights shipped to Maukka to test, he has adjusted his tube down to match. All of the Texas_Ace Lumen Tubes he sold have also been adjusted down to match. Officially he still states about a plus or minus 7% range on them.
Maukka has also decided to sell a small batch of carefully measured and documented lights for anyone who wishes to calibrate their own integrating sphere/lumen tube.
I think the bottom line is if you want exact lumen numbers your gonna have to buy a $10,000 professional integrating sphere.
If you donāt want to spend that much money, you can ship a certain light to be tested by someone who does have one. This is slow and can get very expensive the more lights that need to be sent.
The next cheapest method is to just build your own device then calibrate it with a certified light from someone like Maukka.
The cheapest and probably best way is to just buy a Texas_Ace Lumen tube. Itās already calibrated plus is very well thought out. Plus you get lumen readings right off the lux meter with no math involved.
The two homemade options are always going to have bigger tolerances, but they are much more practical and cheaper.