Teacher, can you confirm where you saw these emitter tints at? I can’t seem to find them in any of the threads or reviews.
Does anyone know what emitter bin comes in it?
I ordered CW but of course I’ll change it… 
I will, at the very least, change the emitter and flash Anduril to the driver… I might end up putting an XHP-35 in it, who knows?
If the long tube can take it, I’ll probably bore it for a 20700 or 21700, depending of course if it can take either. I have a couple of XP-L HI V3 3A bare emitters and some boards, might even slice an Samsung LH351D like I did yesterday. I’ll figure it out, one way or 3 others…
(Edit: Come to think on it, I DO have another SBT-70 left over…. )
Thanks Martin, that looked pretty good on your video. I’ll go with that…… 
placed my order for 1 NW GT-Mni 
Here ya’ go my friend. It was from M4DM4X. No idea about bin.
Thanks Teacher! Looks like I will try the CW emitter.
Thanks Dale……
Let us know how hard it is go get the glued in driver out too… 
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Hopefully the bezel & battery tube will not be glued. :person_facepalming: . 
My pleasure Yourrid! That is what I am going with also.
Martin says he thinks that is what he had in the Prototype when he made the GT Mini video.
Interested
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Does anyone have details about the driver, like the circuit design and ideally also source code? If it’s using NarsilM, there should be code for the GT-Mini version available since it’s a derivative work of a GPL-licensed project.
Code would be the most helpful thing for getting Anduril to run on it. An actual working unit with an unglued driver would help too, but probably isn’t necessary if there is reference code.
About the earlier discussion of lumens…
There are several different units in common use, and all of them are called a “lumen”:
- The main one is the ANSI standard lumen. Maukka has calibrated equipment which uses this scale. I think djozz may be using it too.
- The most common on BLF is the Zebralight/cpfselfbuilt lumen scale. It usually runs about 40% higher than ANSI lumens, so a 100-ANSI-lumen light will typically read about 140 lumens on a zebraselfbuilt scale. I think this is what I’ve been using, since I calibrated my light box to match selfbuilt’s numbers and Zebralight’s numbers. I think it’s also what DB Custom uses, and several of the other modders here on BLF.
- Texas_Ace light tube lumens. I hear these may be higher still, but I don’t know the details.
- Every other person’s home-calibrated light box. These all differ from each other, so the numbers are only really comparable to other measurements by that same person.
Additionally, there are other factors making this more complicated:
- Emitter lumens vs OTF (out the front) lumens. A bare emitter measures higher than one housed inside a flashlight with various optics. I think this may have been the origin of the Zebraselfbuilt scale, in part. The OTF Zebra lumens are often pretty close to the ANSI OTF lumens, at least in some lights.
- Measurement timing. Numbers measured at start are usually higher than measured at the ANSI-standard timing of 30 seconds.
- Sag. Output sags over time in a lot of lights. ANSI runtimes technically go until the light sags to 10%, IIRC, but this value is misleading. 3 hours at 1000 lumens may actually be 3 minutes at 1000 lumens and then 2h at 200 lumens, then 57 minutes at 101 lumens.
- “Chinese lumens / Ultrafire lumens”. Marketing people like to make up numbers to try to make lights sell better, especially on cheap items. Often times they’ll take the emitter’s maximum rated ANSI emitter lumen output and claim the product does two or three times as much. This number has very little relation to actual real-world performance.
From what I can tell, the GT-Mini will probably make about 1200 OTF Zebra lumens, slightly less than the Emisar D1S’s 1300-1350 OTF Zebra lumens. The number is probably lower on an ANSI OTF scale though. And it’s almost certainly not 2000, unless we count Ultrafire lumens… in which case it’d probably be about 2500 to 4000.
Since I have plans to mod my GT mini, I’ll pull the driver and send it to you when I get the light TK….
It may be totally unnecessary. The manual indicates it’s running NarsilM 1.2, I think. It might be totally unmodified from what’s on the big GT.
If that’s the case, everything might “just work”. So, definitely try it first… Also, I may be travelling for a while and may not be able to receive packages or get much done. So I hope things will work as-is without any changes.
Which one do you like more?
Edited：Link……
Logo poll
Order placed. Can’t wait to get mine!!
I’m not too familiar with the Zebralight/cpfselfbuilt lumen scale.
DB Custom, Robo819, Richard at MTN and Tom E use the Manxbuggy1’s lumen tubes which I think are only 10% to 15% higher than Maukka’s readings. (certain throwy lights might be a bit higher due to no diffusers in the design)
Texas_Ace’s personal lumen tube did read a bit higher than the ones above. About 30% higher than Maukka’s. After getting some reference lights shipped to Maukka to test, he has adjusted his tube down to match. All of the Texas_Ace Lumen Tubes he sold have also been adjusted down to match. Officially he still states about a plus or minus 7% range on them.
Maukka has also decided to sell a small batch of carefully measured and documented lights for anyone who wishes to calibrate their own integrating sphere/lumen tube.
I think the bottom line is if you want exact lumen numbers your gonna have to buy a $10,000 professional integrating sphere.
If you don’t want to spend that much money, you can ship a certain light to be tested by someone who does have one. This is slow and can get very expensive the more lights that need to be sent.
The next cheapest method is to just build your own device then calibrate it with a certified light from someone like Maukka.
The cheapest and probably best way is to just buy a Texas_Ace Lumen tube. It’s already calibrated plus is very well thought out. Plus you get lumen readings right off the lux meter with no math involved.
The two homemade options are always going to have bigger tolerances, but they are much more practical and cheaper.
As an addition to ToyKeppers post above:
The djozz-lumen is the output of my Sunwayman D40A on high setting divided by 550. It was established a few years ago and I keep it as my standard because it is consistent over all my measurements, and with the D40A always available it is easy to maintain.
Since then I have learned that the djozz-lumen is likely higher than the real lumen, some comparisons that I did in Germany with flashlights measured before in the LedLenser sphere, and an exchange of 2 different flashlights with maukka suggest that the djozz-lumen is on average around 9% high. But compared to maukka’s setup a high CRI 4000K flashlight (the 348 light that maukka is selling now for calibration) produced a bigger difference (11) than a 5000K 70CRI Nitecore P12 (7), so despite using a very high quality well V-lambda corrected luxmeter I have a spectrum sensitivity difference with maukka as well.