Seems like luck of the draw . Mine has been ok with 14500. Hasn’t been used much though .
Gave my enogear some colouring, posted it in the “what did you mod today thread”. Think I will get some more to play with.
It’s been two months already and I still haven’t received the replacement head. Jackie just ignores my emails now. :cry:
Update: Got this email from Jackie:
_I must appologize that we forgot to send out the head part.
Now we will send you a new flashlight registered post . Sorry for my carelessness.
Do you like to use 14500? If so , we can send you 14500 USB version to try. It’s good_
Jackie really is good people. I think he gets overwhelmed at times and has a hard time with shipping. I in no way think he would do you wrong. I understand it’s quite aggravating at times with the speed of the transaction. I hope you are eventually happy with your purchase.
Finally received mine in the mail on Friday. Photos don’t do it justice. It feels good and looks good in hand. One of the best tail switches I have used in a while (Good job Jackie at Enogear). It is the shortest AA light in my collection.
Almost looks like it is a Poor man’s version of a Haiku (it is a budget stainless steel light, afterall)…. I was hoping the head screwed into the body a little more (like another 2mm, or at least another 1mm). The exposed brass could compromise the moisture proofness of this light.
Overall I like this light and think it is a nice light for what I paid for (less than $15).
Congrats LUTD. It really is a nice light. Still use mine regularly and probably are going to order an other one to mod.
Been EDC’ing mine during the day (IDEAloop 2450 mAh) and using it as a “ambience” night light (joule thief - AA Alkaleaks from kids toys that have less than 1.2 volts) to keep eyes on my two little boys. I’ll wait for more reports and reviews before throwing in a 14500. The knurling is just right aggressiveness (it’s there but doesn’t bite too much??). In comparison, my Eagtac D25A Ti Clicky is on the aggressive side.
Has been my primary EDC ever since I revived it. Four weeks on 14500 batteries, and no problems.
Mine has been fine for awhile with 14500.
Ever since I burnt the driver in my Enogear AA by using 14500 batteries, I requested a replacement head from Jackie Zhang at Enogear. It’s been several months and nearly impossible to an answer from him so I thought it was a goner. However, several months later to my surprise I just received a brand new entire AA flashlight (not just the head) and also a 14500 usb rechargeable version for free. I took lumen measurements with my TA lumen sphere calibrated using Maukka calibration lights:
Enogear AA 163 lumens
Enogear usb recharegeable 14500 259 lumens
Enogear AAA 123 lumens
The AA version has the same nice rosy 4000k tint from the last batch making it a perfect EDC for use inside the house. However, this time the AA version doesn’t turn on when I insert 14500 cells. But I rather it not work with 14500 then burn the driver running on 14500 like the previous one I had. The 14500 usb rechargeable Enogear does not work with AA batteries. The tint is also noticeably cooler and whiter with much more noticeable tint shift and not as rosy. The tint is no where near as nice as the AA version but it’s still not bad. The AAA version appears warmer than the AA version. Probably 3500-3800k and not as rosy as the AA version. However compared with the 4000k 219C Reylight, it is more orange and not as yellow so it is still a decent tint. I’m actually surprised the AAA version can get 123 lumens with such warm tint, which makes this one of the brightest NW/WW AAA flashlights in existence. The only thing I don’t like is that it goes from Hi - Med - Low, whereas the AA version goes from L - Med - Hi.
I highly recommend anyone looking for a budget, yet nice AA light consider the Enogear AA stainless steel flashlight. It also makes for a great gift.
Thanks for this well written post. The links made it easier to follow exactly what you were talking about. Would it be possible to get TA lumen spere measurements on the AA Stainless Low and Med modes? Are you using alkaline, primary lithium, or Ni-MH batteries?
Are the Maukka calibrations lights worth the investment? Thanks!
I'm still waiting on my two Enogear AA Stainless lights ordered a month ago (July 11th)!
Enogear Stainless AA using Eneloop Pro
Low = 9 lumens
Med = 53 lumens
Thanks again! Looking forward to receiving mine!
Received a new SS enogear. Again very nice. Only this time no 14500 support and no clip.
Nihm only is fine for me with this light, but I do need a pocketclip. I contacted Jackie from enogear, will see what happens.
Anyone got a good source for ss pocketclips as backup?
Some of their light are really beautifull! The 14500 Brass & Copper lights. And especially the TC8 Titan is a absolut beauty (i do not need another one, I do not need another one, i do not need another one. My new mantra, but unfortunately it is not working most of the time :disappointed: ).
My question is, if there is a driver out there that would run with Anduril and AA & 14500 or AA only (for the Enogear Stainless Steel AA light)? Because the original driver with a lot of PWM flickering and this beautifull mod spacing is absolut no option!
We have 2018! ! ! And you still see a lot of lights from 5-300$+ with: lo-mid-high-strobe-sos-becon (even Nitecore and other expensive Brands).
If you check reviews out there for some of the new BLF lights with Narsil you will find that they all have one thing in common. All are praising the UI. Easy for Muggle and “all you need” for enthusiasts.
If i buy a light today 95% of the time i am checking if there is a Narsil/Anduril compatible driver out there. I did driver/emitter swaps in the past to hotrod lights. ’Today i do it most of the time to get a UI that makes a light more usefull and userfriendly.
The new ones say no 14500?
At least my new one does not work with 14500.
It is odd that some do and some don’t. I asked in email and was told 14500 works. This was back a few months ago.
Are you sure? You need to have button top batteries. Most, if not all, NiMH batteries have button top’s.
The driver is flat, with a little “knob” on it. The spring of the tail switch pushes the battery against the driver. In my case, the retainer ring sticks out further than this little knob. So the body of the battery is stopped by retainer ring, thus preventing the cathode of the battery touching the knob on the driver plate. Try a magnet.
Can someone please measure the driver (maybee a picture too)?