Man I can’t believe it took me this long to read about this C8F host. I’ve been waiting for Convoy to come out with a triple C8 for years!!! I read 90% of the posts in here and decided I’m buying one of these hosts from RMM (mtnelectronics) right away (like right meow).
Build list:
C8F Host
MTN-17DDm FET + 7135 Driver - 17mm (D4 UI v2)
Samsung 30Q
XP-L V6… XP-L HI V3… or XP-L2 V6 :smiling_imp:
Seems like the XP-L2 is a clear winner in the lumen game between those 3 choices. But…
Is the tint shift from dedoming or just from the massive amount of amps they pull? I plan on leaving them domed and would like max output. I know the XP-L2’s have a very low forward voltage, but I would imagine 3 running off of one 30Q would be reasonable… right?
Also, anyone ever get any beamshot comparisons between different emitters in the C8F? I remember reading someone asking for some but I don’t think they ever got posted.
My opinion is that not much gain with the XP-L2 by eye. What you can see with the spill you can also see with the HI led but the XP-L2 draws much more current and heating up faster. My XP-L2 version draws above 16A and puts out 4550 lumens at start.
The XP-L HI version draws 11-12A and puts out 3300 lumens and out throw the XP-L2.
As you see it. First I built the XP-L2 because go big or…. but for a friend later I built the XP-L HI. If I have to do it again I will build an XP-L HI for myself.
Maybe when the 21700 host will be available.
The Samsung LH351D is a viable option but again for what your get and the better control of run time the HI is probably the right way to do it.
Remember the big multi emitter lights where the multi reflector is screwed in at the middle? This one is like that, but a lot smaller and as such there is very little room to work. It’s doable, but tight. You just have to be careful and take it slow. Probably 20 ga leads is sufficient, 22 ga would be even easier.
Nice light, the side switch really works great in this size and shape. Pretty sure you’re gonna like it. The reflector gives a tighter beam than the CUTE-3 optic, so it’s a win all around in my book….
Ok, I know Vf’s aren’t the same but what would happen if one were to put an Samsung LH351D, Cree XP-L HI and Nichia 219C on the triple MCPCB? Like an 5000K 80 CRI Samsung, 5000K 90 CRI Nichia and a V3 3A HI? Should be doable, yes? Maybe not optimal, but should have a nice color and be interesting, right? Just a thought…
I can hardly tell the difference between the two pictures, so the added heat from the XP-L2’s probably aren’t worth it then. Thanks for the help Zozz and DB! Looking forward to seeing the new 21700 light soon!
I have one of the C8F’s that has been crying out for Anduril, so I am about to rebuild it and go with the 3 different emitters just to see what shakes.
I don’t have an Samsung available but I have one in a D1s and I have one leftover XP-L W2 2B I’ve been saving… so the swap will be made to get the High CRI into the Sofirn light and the high lumens emitter into the thrower. We shall see, at the very least it’ll give me something to do for the next hour anyway. lol
the new sofirn c8f 21700 will be available around July 20
qidong yang: Hi, thank you for your support of Sofirn flashlights. the upgrade C8F 21700 version will keep the Cree XPL emitter , and the estimate time of the first bunch produce will be around 20th, July. In order to meet different demand of customers’ DIY, we will sell the new host as well at that time
Me too. I’m in night shift. Just building a Convoy L2 SST40 to a friend with a FET driver. Shorted the positive led wire soldering to the MCPCB screw. with driver hanging out and testing with power supply no problem. But when I assembled and the body get negative from batt and positive from the led wire…… just a flash and nothing… then I wasn’t able to click the switch. I know something is really bad so fast untwisted the tailcap. Got the magic smell but not smoke. Fully charged Liitokala 26650 was warm. Driver spring collapsed fully with bypass so it acted as a fuse. Also the switch got stuck so I think the switch internal also melted and collapsed. I need a little break but an Eagle Eye X6 still waiting for build tonight.
Everything else survived. Me, driver, led, battery. Just the switch and one spring gone.
People make mistakes. Even after a few hundred mods. That is why we need to design safe lights even if they are hotrods. To make sure a newbie wont harm him/her….self.