Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

There you go:
Sorry for quality.

From table to ceiling:

Outside:

My opinion is that not much gain with the XP-L2 by eye. What you can see with the spill you can also see with the HI led but the XP-L2 draws much more current and heating up faster. My XP-L2 version draws above 16A and puts out 4550 lumens at start.
The XP-L HI version draws 11-12A and puts out 3300 lumens and out throw the XP-L2.

ZozzV6, thank you so much man! I think I was pretty set on the XP-L2… but now you have me questioning it.

The HI looks equally as bright as the XP-L2 with a bit more throw. Which do you like more?

As you see it. First I built the XP-L2 because go big or…. but for a friend later I built the XP-L HI. If I have to do it again I will build an XP-L HI for myself.
Maybe when the 21700 host will be available.

Use XPL-HI or LH351D to get same beam as xpl2 but with better tint.

The Samsung LH351D is a viable option but again for what your get and the better control of run time the HI is probably the right way to do it.

Remember the big multi emitter lights where the multi reflector is screwed in at the middle? This one is like that, but a lot smaller and as such there is very little room to work. It’s doable, but tight. You just have to be careful and take it slow. Probably 20 ga leads is sufficient, 22 ga would be even easier.

Nice light, the side switch really works great in this size and shape. Pretty sure you’re gonna like it. The reflector gives a tighter beam than the CUTE-3 optic, so it’s a win all around in my book….

Totally agree with Dale!
I putted 20GA-s in the HI version.

Ok, I know Vf’s aren’t the same but what would happen if one were to put an Samsung LH351D, Cree XP-L HI and Nichia 219C on the triple MCPCB? Like an 5000K 80 CRI Samsung, 5000K 90 CRI Nichia and a V3 3A HI? Should be doable, yes? Maybe not optimal, but should have a nice color and be interesting, right? Just a thought…

I’m the same way man!

I can hardly tell the difference between the two pictures, so the added heat from the XP-L2’s probably aren’t worth it then. Thanks for the help Zozz and DB! Looking forward to seeing the new 21700 light soon!

I have one of the C8F’s that has been crying out for Anduril, so I am about to rebuild it and go with the 3 different emitters just to see what shakes. :smiley:

I don’t have an Samsung available but I have one in a D1s and I have one leftover XP-L W2 2B I’ve been saving… so the swap will be made to get the High CRI into the Sofirn light and the high lumens emitter into the thrower. We shall see, at the very least it’ll give me something to do for the next hour anyway. lol

Can’t wait to see your results and pics! :+1:

the new sofirn c8f 21700 will be available around July 20

qidong yang: Hi, thank you for your support of Sofirn flashlights. the upgrade C8F 21700 version will keep the Cree XPL emitter , and the estimate time of the first bunch produce will be around 20th, July. In order to meet different demand of customers’ DIY, we will sell the new host as well at that time

I don’t know why Sofirn send info to more people on BLF to write in the same thread. Especially I don’t got any info.

Probably the only manufacturer that sells hosts along side their own lights from day 1.

I’m super excited to buy more from Sofirn!

Dude, I didn’t even realize post #1 had been updated. That’s some nice pictures.

I update the OP every time I got something new. Also put it in here as a new post.

I also didn’t realize this was your thread. Geez, I’m slippin. :confounded:

Me too. I’m in night shift. Just building a Convoy L2 SST40 to a friend with a FET driver. Shorted the positive led wire soldering to the MCPCB screw. with driver hanging out and testing with power supply no problem. But when I assembled and the body get negative from batt and positive from the led wire…… just a flash and nothing… then I wasn’t able to click the switch. I know something is really bad so fast untwisted the tailcap. Got the magic smell but not smoke. :smiley: Fully charged Liitokala 26650 was warm. Driver spring collapsed fully with bypass so it acted as a fuse. Also the switch got stuck so I think the switch internal also melted and collapsed. I need a little break but an Eagle Eye X6 still waiting for build tonight.

Dang…. :frowning: … Glad all you got was “the magic smell”. :+1:

Everything else survived. :smiley: Me, driver, led, battery. Just the switch and one spring gone.
People make mistakes. Even after a few hundred mods. That is why we need to design safe lights even if they are hotrods. To make sure a newbie wont harm him/her….self.

The Sofirn C8F is a unique light, I’d forgotten that the MCPCB is also screwed to the reflector with a single screw… this serves to keep the reflector from rotating on the MCPCB when the bezel is snugged down. There is a thin spacer that goes between the reflector and MCPCB but still, you can’t overtighten this screw or it will tilt the board and cause issues. Again, this one makes you do things differently, you have to put the wires on the MCPCB first, leave them long enough to attach to the driver then mount the driver. It’s all pretty tight, and tonight my fresh built Anduril driver didn’t like the switch. So I put in a new e-switch and this one has a little shorter actuation post, always something.

But I have it working, candlelight and everything looks good. Used the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI , an Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and one Cree XP-L HI V3 3A. Beam looks good, color looks good, all in all pretty dang sweet. :slight_smile:

Definitely a challenge compared to , say, an Eagle Eye X6. :wink:

Reduced exposure to show hot spot, it’s actually even a bit smaller than shows here but this was my iPhone 8 with manual settings…

And more proper exposure in a lower mode to show color…

Moon is 0.276 lumens
Default ramp ceiling in Anduril is 1376.55 lumens
Turbo is 2590.95 lumens

Not bad at all with the 22 ga leads and a small CaroBronze spring on the driver. I Like It! :smiley: