Sofirn C8F host. 21700 C8F Available

the new sofirn c8f 21700 will be available around July 20

qidong yang: Hi, thank you for your support of Sofirn flashlights. the upgrade C8F 21700 version will keep the Cree XPL emitter , and the estimate time of the first bunch produce will be around 20th, July. In order to meet different demand of customers’ DIY, we will sell the new host as well at that time

I don’t know why Sofirn send info to more people on BLF to write in the same thread. Especially I don’t got any info.

Probably the only manufacturer that sells hosts along side their own lights from day 1.

I’m super excited to buy more from Sofirn!

Dude, I didn’t even realize post #1 had been updated. That’s some nice pictures.

I update the OP every time I got something new. Also put it in here as a new post.

I also didn’t realize this was your thread. Geez, I’m slippin. :confounded:

Me too. I’m in night shift. Just building a Convoy L2 SST40 to a friend with a FET driver. Shorted the positive led wire soldering to the MCPCB screw. with driver hanging out and testing with power supply no problem. But when I assembled and the body get negative from batt and positive from the led wire…… just a flash and nothing… then I wasn’t able to click the switch. I know something is really bad so fast untwisted the tailcap. Got the magic smell but not smoke. :smiley: Fully charged Liitokala 26650 was warm. Driver spring collapsed fully with bypass so it acted as a fuse. Also the switch got stuck so I think the switch internal also melted and collapsed. I need a little break but an Eagle Eye X6 still waiting for build tonight.

Dang…. :frowning: … Glad all you got was “the magic smell”. :+1:

Everything else survived. :smiley: Me, driver, led, battery. Just the switch and one spring gone.
People make mistakes. Even after a few hundred mods. That is why we need to design safe lights even if they are hotrods. To make sure a newbie wont harm him/her….self.

The Sofirn C8F is a unique light, I’d forgotten that the MCPCB is also screwed to the reflector with a single screw… this serves to keep the reflector from rotating on the MCPCB when the bezel is snugged down. There is a thin spacer that goes between the reflector and MCPCB but still, you can’t overtighten this screw or it will tilt the board and cause issues. Again, this one makes you do things differently, you have to put the wires on the MCPCB first, leave them long enough to attach to the driver then mount the driver. It’s all pretty tight, and tonight my fresh built Anduril driver didn’t like the switch. So I put in a new e-switch and this one has a little shorter actuation post, always something.

But I have it working, candlelight and everything looks good. Used the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI , an Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and one Cree XP-L HI V3 3A. Beam looks good, color looks good, all in all pretty dang sweet. :slight_smile:

Definitely a challenge compared to , say, an Eagle Eye X6. :wink:

Reduced exposure to show hot spot, it’s actually even a bit smaller than shows here but this was my iPhone 8 with manual settings…

And more proper exposure in a lower mode to show color…

Moon is 0.276 lumens
Default ramp ceiling in Anduril is 1376.55 lumens
Turbo is 2590.95 lumens

Not bad at all with the 22 ga leads and a small CaroBronze spring on the driver. I Like It! :smiley:

The D1s that I took the Samsung emitter out of got my last Cree XP-L HD W2 1A emitter (W2 is rare) It’s “only” making 1346 lumens and I don’t know why, not going to look into it further tonight though. lol

On the lowest setting, i8 at 40ISO, f/1.8 aperture, 1/873 sec exposure…

What is that yellow/greenish emitter on the top? The beam looks beautiful, no green at all!

On top, the Cree XP-L HI V3 3A, bottom right is the Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and bottom left is the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI.

This is looking at the emitters barely lit, combined output is just over 1/4 of a lumen, so the tint is not what you might would expect from a given emitter. Current to each one at this level is ridiculously low, barely enough to excite the phosphor.

The Cree is an HI, factory domeless… the other two have domes on.

I can take a shot with a much faster shutter of the emitters under more power but it shows the electronic shutter… I’ll see what I can do…

Perhaps their truer colors, this shot taken with my Apple i8 using manual camera controls, ISO 20 at f/1.8 with an amazing 1/50,000 of a second shutter speed! Light is on the full 7135 chip, a default “On” setting in Anduril after a cell change. This is approximately 130 lumens, no filters…

Ironically, these also cover 70, 80 and 90 CRI. :smiley:

Thanks for the pic! Very helpful! I’m surprised the 3A tint is more yellow than the other two since 3A should be at or below the BBL. I’m surprised the 219C has less yellow than the Samsung because most of the 219c are a bit above the bbl.

Probably because this specific sample of Samsung LH351D is 80CRI, which means less medium blue, cyan, and bluish green is emitted compared to the 90CRI 219C.

Indeed, a lower CRI emitter can be seen as more yellowish (and same time, more purple) because of the cyan deficit. In these cases, being way under the BBL strengthens the purple look, closing in to the BBL or going above it strengthens the yellow look (but this is also dependent of the equivalent CCT).

Will the 21700 battery tube have the same threads as the 18650 C8 tube? Probably not, but I want to make sure anyway.

No. The head’s lower part also made bigger.