The Sofirn C8F is a unique light, I’d forgotten that the MCPCB is also screwed to the reflector with a single screw… this serves to keep the reflector from rotating on the MCPCB when the bezel is snugged down. There is a thin spacer that goes between the reflector and MCPCB but still, you can’t overtighten this screw or it will tilt the board and cause issues. Again, this one makes you do things differently, you have to put the wires on the MCPCB first, leave them long enough to attach to the driver then mount the driver. It’s all pretty tight, and tonight my fresh built Anduril driver didn’t like the switch. So I put in a new e-switch and this one has a little shorter actuation post, always something.
But I have it working, candlelight and everything looks good. Used the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI , an Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and one Cree XP-L HI V3 3A. Beam looks good, color looks good, all in all pretty dang sweet.
Definitely a challenge compared to , say, an Eagle Eye X6.
Reduced exposure to show hot spot, it’s actually even a bit smaller than shows here but this was my iPhone 8 with manual settings…
And more proper exposure in a lower mode to show color…
Moon is 0.276 lumens
Default ramp ceiling in Anduril is 1376.55 lumens
Turbo is 2590.95 lumens
Not bad at all with the 22 ga leads and a small CaroBronze spring on the driver. I Like It!
The D1s that I took the Samsung emitter out of got my last Cree XP-L HD W2 1A emitter (W2 is rare) It’s “only” making 1346 lumens and I don’t know why, not going to look into it further tonight though. lol
On top, the Cree XP-L HI V3 3A, bottom right is the Nichia 219C 5000K 90 CRI and bottom left is the Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI.
This is looking at the emitters barely lit, combined output is just over 1/4 of a lumen, so the tint is not what you might would expect from a given emitter. Current to each one at this level is ridiculously low, barely enough to excite the phosphor.
The Cree is an HI, factory domeless… the other two have domes on.
I can take a shot with a much faster shutter of the emitters under more power but it shows the electronic shutter… I’ll see what I can do…
Perhaps their truer colors, this shot taken with my Apple i8 using manual camera controls, ISO 20 at f/1.8 with an amazing 1/50,000 of a second shutter speed! Light is on the full 7135 chip, a default “On” setting in Anduril after a cell change. This is approximately 130 lumens, no filters…
Thanks for the pic! Very helpful! I’m surprised the 3A tint is more yellow than the other two since 3A should be at or below the BBL. I’m surprised the 219C has less yellow than the Samsung because most of the 219c are a bit above the bbl.
Probably because this specific sample of Samsung LH351D is 80CRI, which means less medium blue, cyan, and bluish green is emitted compared to the 90CRI 219C.
Indeed, a lower CRI emitter can be seen as more yellowish (and same time, more purple) because of the cyan deficit. In these cases, being way under the BBL strengthens the purple look, closing in to the BBL or going above it strengthens the yellow look (but this is also dependent of the equivalent CCT).
This will be a cool flashlight to welcome and celebrate the year 2020. We are less than a year and a half from there. Star Wars IX is coming out on Dec. 20, 2019. We’re almost there gang!
2020? It could be out in a few weeks maybe. IDK for sure, but not too long.
Bombay says about July 20th, but that seems too soon. I will not complain if it’s true. I would just like it tested and working good instead of it rushing for a fast release.
That is true. But if somebody want modding the mini GT driver is glued and special. in a sofirn you can build what you want so I will keep pushing that idea to them
I just got my C8F host in from Mountain Electronics, man this is a great looking light :heart_eyes:
I have a question for y’all though. This is my first time installing a driver into a light with a side switch, so I’m wondering where the leads get connected for the side switch. Reading around I think this is correct.
Under the green circle it says “OTC,” but it didn’t come with that resistor. Is this the correct place for the e-switch leads? I’ve read you can also connect the + to the MCU #2, and the - to any ground. But the OTC pads are supposedly better to use. I’m fairly confident that was what Richard was explaining over on his thread here: Comment #7944
Also, the driver didn’t come with any of the resistors under the yellow circle. I complicitly trust that Richard left them off for a reason. Just out of curiosity, what are they for?
