As a fisherman i donât actually think tints plays a big part in fog? I know we all have our own views on this but for me a NW tint doesnât help. My house is rarely foggy but we do get heaps of sea spray and mist and that is a pain to get thru. I think the cold white tints do create more glare in fog but still work just as good as a NW tint. Even at my girlfriends parents place on the lake its always got heavy fog but i still get better throw from a cold white tint.
I have noticed heaps of people live inland on BLF and use there lights in different situations to me which could cause different results. I only use my lights around water/coastal areas.
Thanks for the feedback Jason on your light maybe we can highlight the information so people can reference it for throw numbers.
I personally donât need 1km of throw in this light i would prefer a more linear beam with good width. Id be happy with the stock reflector size in the SMO variant. People now have heaps of options of XHP70 throwers on the market that they can buy right now so throw isnât much of an issue.
I dont think we will get any where near 270KCD (1km throw) unless the dome is sliced and the light is running DD.
As for the SP70 itself
Custom driver maybe 9+amps or DD ( No amperage numbers indicated as of yet)
Two 26650 in series
90mm head diameter
SMO reflector
Dual switches rear clicky and side switch
XHP70.2
Multi mode UI with ramping and a second group set with standard modes (e.g low, medium, high)
I think Sofirn is in charge of this thread? But are we going to use the numbers from the K70 build as people in or start a new group buy?
I donât have any experience with fog. Itâs only what Iâve heard. Maybe itâs just a rumor.
Surely the long range is crucial for spotting other boats and land marks, though. Iâm no boater, obviously.
When the time is right, Iâm sure a new thread will be started for any group buy. Assuming they do one. They may just give BLF members a discount code. I really dont know. I donât remember any group buys done by Sofirn.
Just an update, it seems Sofirn has decided to not do any blinky modes on the new UI. It seems itâs not a high demand feature.
On the other hand, they are working on a cool battery level indicator feature. There will be colored leds under the side switch cover.
Whatâs really cool is the led indicator will also function as a locator to find the light and switch in the dark. Very neat!
When you turn on the main led, the switch leds will stay on for 10 seconds to show battery status, then turn off.
The switch led indicator stays lit when the main led is off, but the tail switch is on. This will make it easy to find in the dark.
The switch led indicator will go off when tail switch power is cut off, obviously.
I have no idea what the parasitic drain might be, but that will be sorted later on. It is influenced by many things that have not been decided on yet. Hopefully you guys like the direction things are going.
Sounds like this would be a great light, a heavy duty thrower. Whatever comes out of this, I would prefer either single XHP70.2 light or 4-5x XHP35 HI light. Definitely not another boring XHP70.2. triple flooder.
As for design, here are my two cents:
Deeper steel bezel for reflector protection
Proper LANYARD HOLE, dont you dare to cheat us lanyard lovers.
Lot of people canât do proper dedoming like some of skill moder here it is hit or miss (that mean some new LED cost),factory done may add some cost but surely less than larger the head for the same throw effect.
I would prefer a better programmable UI with a single side switch. Or give me two side switches - something like the interface that Nitecore used on the EC. A mid-amp charger port would be nice, too. A tail switch is of no use to me.
Iâm not too concerned about the size. I am looking for about $50 delivered for the price. Think Astrolux MF02 with some attitude, two batteries and none of the wrinkles.
I wanted this to be a sort of toolbox light; big enough to give long run times and have a good, high lux, balanced beam for work and outdoors. I had hoped that the BLF GT would fill that role. I was wrong.
With BLF lights I would dream a little bit bigger than a sort of a toolbox light. My proposal would be a BLF alternative to any of these large models: Acebeam K65, Thrunite TN40S, Fenix TK75. All come with great output and throw.
I understand what you are saying. :+1: . BUTâŚâŚ you are assuming some factory worker, who may have never dedomed anything; can do it with the skill & accuracy of a seasoned modder.
That âassumptionâ could well be a recipe for disaster in this, or any group buy. Unless a âfactoryâ has proven they can dedome properly this should not even be a consideration.
The same thing is going on in the GT70 Group Buy. A dedomed emitter âmay be an optionâŚâŚ âŚâŚ BUT only if Lumintop can prove to TA that they can dedome properly.
As was said earlier⌠if someone wants this light dedomed they should do it themselves or send it to a skilled modder to have it done.
I pitched them the idea of using NarsilM or Anduril, because that is what I prefer, but they seem to want to make their own UI. I believe the BLF drivers that use NarsilM are quite a bit more expensive to manufacture due to the premium parts, etc⌠This would in turn raise the selling price which no one wants. Hopefully the factory driver and new UI we are working on will be just fine for the vast majority of buyers. It should be wayyy better than what youâll get in the S70s and L6.
I think having two sides switches would overly complicate things, plus itâs not really necessary.
Built-in charging is a no-go due to the batteries being in series. The only safe way to do it would be for Sofirn to use a battery pack. Iâm sure nobody wants a battery pack.
Nobody has to actually use the tail switch if they donât want to. It would just be an easy way to cut all power for when the light is being stored or transported. Itâs also good for modders who are going to swap the driver out. Using a flat tail cap might reduce the overall length by about three quarters of an inch. Itâs possible they may offer a flat tail cap later.
Here are two of VOBâs videos on slicing the dome. I did this myself, itâs not too hard. If you can solder the 2 wires and have a sharp razor blade, you can do it. You might not even need to do the soldering part.
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