New VirEnce MCPCB for E17/E21/119/144/233U

I am a bit surprized that you gave this higher priority than a regular quad, for quad carclo

Quad config is not as good as quadtrix config for colour mixing. I prepared all these boards for the CCT switching lights and for the upcoming colour E17A (I hope E21A as well).

- Clemence

Thanks Clemence!

That first pic looks so perfectly soldered and just clean! :+1:

I borrowed your order for the pic and beam shots. I always test all soldered LED orders at 100% rated current for 1 minutes each.

- Clemence

Did you measure the lumens?

No, because I don’t have the right equipment to do so. You can use Texas_Ace measurement for comparison figure.

- Clemence

- Clemence

NOTE:
Actual stock Carclo 10622 beam was so much uglier with blue hot spot. While on the other hand the frosted 10622 (yes I frosted it myself) was so much better with no red band at all. My camera limited dynamic range can’t reproduce the actual looks.

- Clemence

Blu hotspot with optisolis? What is the cct on that and is the tint as red pink as E21A?

Blue-green hot spot to be exact. This Optisolis can only be used in medium to flood setup. TIR still very useful to direct the beam out front and make the transition smoother than no optic at all (mule). Tint is very neutral IMHO. My guess it’s not far from BBL. You’ll see Maukka’s test result soon, his sample already OTW.

- Clemence

So far, the Optisolis doesn’t seem as enticing compared to the E21A, but I’ll wait for Maukka’s test.

Indeed, Optisolis is not easy to implement in flashlight world unless very specialized optics used. In my opinion E21A still the best when very high CRI LED for flashlight is needed.

- Clemence

Clemence, could you explain what you mean here, please? What transition?

Without TIR optic as in mule setup (just flat lens) the beam would be full circle with hard cut-off. With most TIR optic you should get gradation with center weighted intensity.

Any optics should help to throw the beam outside the flashlight rather than just absorbed in the cavity as heat. Let’s say we can get the same beam profile with mule and TIR optic (super even and floody). There must be a difference with output, because the TIR optic will direct the beam off the front more than a simple flat lens. This is especially true if the LED shelf cavity is deep and non reflective (black, matte, etc…)

Note: Frosting/diffusing any TIR optics should be done after the collimation (top surface only), except for some severe cases. Because frosting the LED cavity in the TIR optic would upset the designed geometry and lessen the chance to move the light to the front. Most TIR optics designed with uniform lambertian light distribution from the LED die.

- Clemence

I assume that he means to say that with an optic, even if heavily frosted, you do get an actual beam which is bright in the middle with the brightness slowly fading away to the side, while without optic you do not have a visible beam at all, just flood light from front to side (although right in front of the led the brightness is higher than at the side)

Edit: clemence beat me to this answer, and said it better :slight_smile:

+1 Jos, and a mule’s outside perimeter beam shape will also follow the bezel’s shape (shadowing).

- Clemence

I see what you mean. I really appreciate your yhorough explanations. They always add some extra bits of important and useful info in addition to what was asked

Yesterday received order No. 10244
Today I decided to mount the VR16SP4 with the Nichia E21A 3v Configuraton in Skilhunt H03.
He soldered everything as it should, as recommended by the seller.
I decided to check Fluke. No diode burns.
Very sad …

What do you mean? I’m confused here

To check the diodes, put the multimeter in the diodes check mode
Diodes do not light, an audible signal is heard
The driver did not connect, I decided to start to ask
What’s what and why