Sooooooooooooo much better
yes that looks alot better, but what about the frontal below the button what will be there?
Probably nothing.
The new font is better than the old one, but I still wish the logo was smaller.
well i dont see why not it cant have the logo atleast ? but a step in the right direction tho.
Do we have an estimate on when the first units are supposed to start shipping? I kinda want to see beamshots of both tints before placing my order. I would have preferred a 5000k option, so I’m not sure which one will be closer to my preferences.
Should be easy enough to change if the tint doesn’t suit you, I just ordered some Samsung LH351D in 5000K at 80CRI for less than $2 apiece bare.
Ordered a NW version with additional short tube, and 30Q since I only have 2 of these
if i remember correct, early next week for us that buy the light in here.
that's correct
the groupbuy people had this one week presale so they can Shipp as soon as possible
Ordered 1 Mini GT with 18350/18350 Tube.
Just filled out the form, is the GB still on Martin?
About the driver: is it sure a buck driver, as mentioned in this thread? I can’t believe they went for that, the voltage difference between a 18650 cell and a XP-L Hi is so small that it will only regulate current a little in the first few minutes, I’d choose for simple cheap lineair and have that extra boost of direct drive in those minutes. I’m curious about the first pictures of the driver.
Looking at Texas Ace’s measurements, the XP-L HI has a V_f of around 3.7V @ 4.5A.
So accounting for the voltage sag under load, a high drain cell should stay in the regulated region for slightly less than half of its capacity on turbo.
The other big advantage of a regulated buck driver over a FET is improved efficiency in the intermediate modes. So it should be able to produce noticeably better runtimes at 60-80% of max than the Emisar D1S. I’ll gladly take that over an extra 100 turbo lumens that won’t be noticeable by the eye anyway.
I answer todays requests tonight
will also add a Diffusor and a surprise ;)
Regulated about half of its capacity, is this correct? A 30Q at 5A starts between 3.9 and 4 V, at 8 minutes it drops below 3.8V, at half capacity it is at 3.6V. Between cell and led there is always a voltage drop caused by body, springs and wiring, if you get a 0.2V drop (at 5A current), that is very good, in that case the springs are already bypassed. So the battery voltage comes very soon very close to the led voltage for 5A. Further from what I understand about buck drivers, they need a minimum overhead voltage, a value that I can find is a minimum 0.5V difference needed to function. So I do not see a buck driver doing a thing here.
But I must confess that my knowledge about basic calculations is better than my knowledge about drivers…
Wow. 40. If that is true then I am going to have to rethink a lot about manufactures numbers. I was under the impression (perhaps falsely) that the zebralight calibration was one of the more premuim methods. It was for that reason that I assumed Acebeam L16, X45, X80, all of my olights and many other top brands were within about a 10 margin of error from the truth. Most often with those brands I would get just under or just over the rated output.
I have ordered a set of Maukkas lights and could hardly be more excited!
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About the GT MINI. I get why 18650 was the choice. That said if 20700/21700 options come available I would be crazy over that.
Absolutely! I’d love to see this light with a 21700 tube.
Are all physical ratios the same as the GT (i.e. a scale model) or does it just look roughly like the GT?
I’d love to see it with a 26650 tube. It’d be a good place to store one of my Littokala’s…… 
So I’ve been on the fence with ordering this. The glued in driver is something I’ve never had to deal with. Does this make it extremely difficult to modify? I mean, if I wanted to throw a different driver in there later on… is that even possible or would I have to glue it back in?
Think we need clarification on the driver design. I can’t tell if they mean the driver retaining ring will be glued or it doesn’t use a retaining ring and the battery tube is what presses it into place.
It looks like the switch might be attached to the driver and that is why the driver has ears on it to keep it orientated in the right direction.
Then it looks like the battery tube is what pushes against the driver. If that is the case, they might be gluing the battery tube into place. It would also mean you can’t swap drivers.