Personally, I can live a long, happy, & fulfilled life without the āblinky modesā. But if they can be added without taking away from the more important āgood stuffā JasonWW mentioned earlierā¦. why not. Just find a way to hide them away. 
As far as a name & logo. Why not have both Sofirn & BLF names on it along with SP70.
There are several talented people here that have the capability to create this.
It does not have to be gaudy nor complicated. Simple & elegant will do just fine.
What your describing above has my head spinning. Lol. It sounds really complicated.
I would leave double clicks only for turbo.
Is this possible: Triple click for Strobe, then you press and hold to cycle through the other flashing modes. Then click once to either go back or turn off.
I think this would work in both groups and itās pretty easy to remember. It functions the same way as you change brightness levels, but you have to triple click first.
I think it would be well hidden. If you donāt like blinky modes, never triple click and you will be fine.
I would be happy without blinky mode/strobe modes. No one ever uses them
No blinky modes please
If these would be implemented, I think, blinky modes should only accessible in Group 1 (set of output levels) by fast triple clicking. Looping through blinkies then should be done exactly the same way of looping through set of output levels. Then, if we would want to exit blinky mode set, fast triple click again single short click. This would practically hide blinkies for those, who do not prefer them.
In Group 2 (ramping), these blinkies should not be available then, at all. In Group 2, fast triple click could enter the flashlight to momentary on/off (emitting light while switch button is pressed) - and fast triple click again switch the flashlight off and on to return normal ramping operation (forgot, that fast triple click here could be a desired signal here).
Again, for the cost efficiency of the driver (prioritizing stable basic operation), I don't insist on asking for these modes to be implemented. These are considered not really useful for the majority of people, but a few groups of people actually would happily use these (I think, users of these functions are somewhat under-represented here).
Edit: i didn't notice, that JasonWW already answered :-)
And I think, even if these are chosen to be implemented, could be postponed to the time after the first version of this lights reaches production stage - for the first version, the UI JasonWW described originally without the blinky modes, sounds pretty sufficient to me. But again, it is not me to decide :-)
Okay cool we are here to help 
Once we get some idea of the specs we will start a new thread for a group buy.
As for price we will aim to please all! Make us an offer and we can discuss it in the group.
Say you want us to move 500-1000+ lights for this group buy make an offer based on the specs and that amount of sales that are expected? Plus any additional parts we can work out a new price if needed.
You may have to send a prototype to a BLF member to check if its okay and up to standard not sure where that falls with cost (who pays)?
Also will you be selling the light through a 3rd party vendor or your aliexpress store?
Will you stock spare parts? Is it possible to make an OP style reflector that will fit if we get enough interest?
As for the name we can have a discussion here in the thread. I like the BLF70 maybe even BLF70SP i am not that creative so some one else will have a better idea.
Also i am with every one if we have a hidden strobe it should be a triple click to access from the standard group set.
Now i will see what every one else in the thread thinks? Does this sound okay lads?
I donāt know if the BLF name can be put on any light. Especially one that does not use a BLF based driver. It may also be up to the forum owner, SB, since he owns the BLF name.
Personally I think Sofirn SP70 is a fine name. Iāll contact SB to see what he thinks. Texas_Ace as well. There might be some sort of prerequisite to use the BLF name. I donāt know for sure.
You can use the BLF name for BLF modded lights look at the older BLF group buys? This is actually a scratch built BLF light lots of BLF lights have used of the shelf parts including divers. For example the Luckysun BLF D80? All as we done was changed the LED to a DTP MCPCB and up the amperage of the stock driver.
Count me in for group buy.
We are not doing that yet.
If a group buy happens, that info will be linked here so people know.
I like āSofirn SP70ā too. If BLF ācan beā added fine. But the āSofirnā name should be on it too.
Itās not common, so I may be missing something important, butā¦
If you have a proper shim, making a razor cut should not require years of training. And should be of higher quality than similar cuts that many modders do by hand.
Yes, those of use who want to go the extra mile to polish afterwards can still do it better. Though according to RMM, the difference is cosmetic.
Can someone please explain what SP or SF mean on those Sofirn lights? Thanks!
RMM charges $8 extra to slice the dome. Would that be a fair bump in price to get a dedomed SP70?
I donāt know if Sofirn can do it and if so, would they want to do it. It adds a lot of extra complication to the assembly as well as packaging since it will need to be kept seperate from the regular version. It may even slow down the production times. Maybe they could do a limited number for those few who want it and canāt slice it their self. It would probably cost extra, though.
I also donāt know if people would really like the sliced 70.2 beam. Iāve heard it gets warmer and the corona gets more yellow. I have not tried slicing a 70.2 myself. Iāve only sliced the older xhp70. It lost a noticeable amount of output, like 20% to 25% and I didnāt like that do I stuck a new emitter back in. I believe the 70.2 only losses around 15%.
Something as to consider is if Sofirn uses a neutral white 70.2 like a 5000K, and you slice it, you may get too warm a color so maybe a 5700 would be a good choice for a single tint. We have not talked about tints, but Iām sure we will eventually. Typical 70.2 tints Iāve seen are 3000K, 4000K, 5000K, 5700K, 6000K and 6500K.
From the Convoy store.
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It looks to me like SF is tail switch and SP is side switch. I would also like to know if there is more to it than that, and if the letters stand for anything in particular.
Itās just some internal naming system they have. I donāt know what it means. Maybe they can explain it.
I had a xhp70.2 5700k sliced, and it turned a bit green. Which I donāt like at allā¦.
The xhp70.2 4000k dome on I like a lot though.
So when it comes to the choice between bad tint and great throw, or good tint and not so good throw I would choose good tint. But thatās just me.
I did find a light with a 90mm head and a sliced 70.2 led. The Acebeam K65. So it should have the same size reflector as our light will use. A 5000K NW version was tested by Maukka. Itās rated at 6200 lumen and 1014 meters throw. It actually did 4890 lumens and had 900 meters throw. Itās possible this discrepancy is due to the specs being for the 6000K CW version and this being the 5000k NW version.
Here is a beam shot.
He commented that the sliced dome gave the hot spot a slight greenish tint and it made the corona a stronger yellow. It also looks like the spill is fairly yellow. His full review is here. It seems to me like we would want the tint to be a bit cooler than normal since the 70.2 seems to appear warmer than you expect. Iāve got a 6500K in my L6 and it still looks a bit NW to me. I live with it though, as I canāt find anything cooler. This where we need a tint expert like Texas_Ace.
I think the K65 tests prove that with enough power and a sliced dome, over 1000m is easily achieved. I just donāt know if a sliced dome is worth it or not.
Leaving the dome on seems to produce a nicer beam with higher lumen output, but may only get us to around 900 meters. I think this is very reasonable seeing as the older L6 and S70s were only around 500m or so.
Is the world ready for a FET driver? That might be the only way to reach 6000+ lumen on a pair of 26650 batteries.
To start off Jason PMāed me so know that I know positively nothing about this light or thread besides what I scanned on this page.
Far as using the BLF name on the light, while there is no technical rules for using the name, I think that the BLF name should be reserved for lights that are ācompletelyā designed by BLF, using BLF firmware / drivers and to our standards.
My own personal standard for a āBLFā light is a light that I do not need or want to mod after I buy it.
Most lights made now days get input from BLF members in some form, so the line needs to be drawn someplace or BLF will loose itās meaning on a light.
That is just my opinion though.
Lights like the Q8, GT, FSW3 (SP? yeah, I am that far out of the loop) are good examples of this.
I see some people asking about XHP70.2 tint.
There is a massive variance in XHP70.2 tints, much more then the model numbers would seem to say in my experience.
Good tints are not easy to find as we are finding with the GT70.
I do not recommend slicing the production lights, all the XHP70.2ās I have sliced so far turn some level of green, although the very cool or very warm versions seem to hide this the best. It will also get warmer by 300-500k when sliced as well.