Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

I would definitely prefer well hidden blinky modes. I frequently use strobe mode to discourage lurkers in a dark corner of my back yard. As for the UI, I think I would like:

  • Double-click to Turbo
    • Double-click to Strobe
      • Single-click to Beacon1
      • Single-click to Beacon2
      • Single-click to SOS
  • Double-click back to Turbo

That is the whole plan we build the light the way we want it. They will design the light to our specs giving us a choice of parts and design from our feedback in the thread.

I understand. So let’s just hold off on deciding the final product name until we have the final specs nailed down. For now SP70 is good enough for internal discussion.

I’m surprised you don’t like the triple click for strobe. You can get to it faster and simpler. Maybe you think it’s too easy to accidentally activate? If so, maybe it can be changed to 4 fast clicks. Then if you try to activate Turbo and press one extra time by mistake, it will just do nothing instead of surprising you with strobe.

One of the good things about my suggestion was that dbl clk is always turbo and nothing else. Also, a single click is always either on/off or back to the previous level. Nothing else.

Plus it seems natural to cycle through the blinky modes the same way you cycle through the brightness modes. This just makes sense to me.

That works too. :+1: As long as blinky modes are available but well hidden I’m all for it.

Yea sounds good

Compared to existing lights of this style (L6 and S70), is it possible to design the head with thicker internal shelf and additional/larger fins for better heat dissipation?

The L6 shelf already looks to be about 6mm thick and can already handle 120 watts. How much thicker does it need to be?

In looking at the L6 cutaway, I can see that if there is a triple emitter version built later on, the shelf is going to be much higher. This would be a great opportunity to use the same basic outer fin design as the single emitter except cut the fins under the shelf much deeper into the head. You will have much more surface area then.

Both single and triple versions would look very similar until you hold them sideways and notice the different fin depths. Does that make sense? I might try and draw a picture tonight.

BTW, the SP70 will use a clear rubber side switch boot like the Q8 to make the switch leds easy to see in the dark and identify the color.

So basically you want Narsil lol

I think he is talking about the very thin walls along the edge of the reflector.

I pointed this out way back when the L6 was still in the prototype stage but it was never addressed. It would significantly improve heat dissipation if we gave the heat a path to use the fins along the top of the light.

As I am sure you know the heat is kind stuck around the shelf area of the light and has a hard time moving higher up the head to use all the fins.

See the Red area below:

Yeah basically, i’d prefer narsil as well
And then it could be the Sofirn SP70 BLF edition

:smiley: Yeah, I’m not claiming originality, I’m sure I ripped that off from somewhere.

Also @Sofirn and everybody else, would it still feasible to include some of those little silicone rings to use 18650 cells instead of 26650? I suspect I’m not the only one that has an extensive assortment of 18650 cells but only about one or two 26650s cells.

This seems to be a nobrainer and should definitely be included IMO. :+1:
Thanks for mentioning it Caleb & thanks TA for explaining it. :beer:

Good discussion.

Unless the design and CNC programing has already been finalized, anything we do to increase heat dissipation without significantly increasing cost is a good thing.

Don’t we all just want to be able to blast as much light as possible for as long as safely possible before stepping down?

My stock L6 gets too hot to be comfortable to hold in a relatively short time. If we’re bumping up the output significantly without making a way for the heat to be released, this will just exacerbate the issue.

This is already NOT a small light. Let’s not be afraid to add a few extra ounces of aluminum that could make a difference in performance.

I’ll let the engineers work out the specifics.

If you want I have an stock domed XHP70.2 Astrolux MF02 with TA driver and Andúril. 84mm head and 71mm reflector. I can set andúril ramping max to a specified lumen output and measure intensity and throw. That way we can estimate what we can get with the SP70.

I have an L6 XHP70.2 and it suffer heat transfer to upper fins. The hottest part around the side switch.

For firmware I really want Andúril but I’m ok with Narsil too :smiley:

:+1: larger and if possible deeper.

Trustfire does some extreme finning in some lights, like this one:

Agree…

These fins are far too close, there won’t be any air movement between them. But in general, I like the idea of making most of the head from fins.

Better heat sinking is one thing we are talking about. On the k70 we moved the fins around to address this and made the shelf 8mm thick.

Okay, I’m going to submit my official list of brightness levels for the SP70 to Sofirn.

I looked at the S70s spacing and L6 spacing.
I then used the Narsil in my L6 and my TA Lumen Tube to record it’s 4 level mode, 5 level mode and 6 level mode. I tried them all out seeing how useful they are and where the gap in brightness is too big or too small. I then tested out some custom levels.

I came up with a total of 6 levels which includes a hidden moonlight. I’m not sure how helpful moonlight would be on a light this size, but I figure it should be easy enough to add it as a hidden level. So we end up with 5 normal levels.

Turbo could be anywhere from 5000 lumen on up. For now I’ll say 5000+.

This level of turbo gets you into the issue of extreme heat which really limits run time. On my light I would have it stepping down after 50 to 60 seconds* as it’s just too hot to hold. So I think of it as a “not so practical” burst mode for when you need the max. It also rips through your battery life.

*I imagine a bit more runtime with a bigger head and maybe more mass.

So for a more practical and longer run time “high” mode, I would suggest 2000 to 2500 lumen

1-2 Moonlight
40-50 Low
250-300 Med 1
800-1000 Med 2
2000-2500 High
5000+ Turbo

My recommendation is to cycle through the 4 middle modes and have turbo on a double click.