Ironically, these also cover 70, 80 and 90 CRI. 
Thanks for the pic! Very helpful! I’m surprised the 3A tint is more yellow than the other two since 3A should be at or below the BBL. I’m surprised the 219C has less yellow than the Samsung because most of the 219c are a bit above the bbl.
Probably because this specific sample of Samsung LH351D is 80CRI, which means less medium blue, cyan, and bluish green is emitted compared to the 90CRI 219C.
Indeed, a lower CRI emitter can be seen as more yellowish (and same time, more purple) because of the cyan deficit. In these cases, being way under the BBL strengthens the purple look, closing in to the BBL or going above it strengthens the yellow look (but this is also dependent of the equivalent CCT).
Will the 21700 battery tube have the same threads as the 18650 C8 tube? Probably not, but I want to make sure anyway.
No. The head’s lower part also made bigger.
This will be a cool flashlight to welcome and celebrate the year 2020. We are less than a year and a half from there. Star Wars IX is coming out on Dec. 20, 2019. We’re almost there gang!
2020? It could be out in a few weeks maybe. IDK for sure, but not too long.
Bombay says about July 20th, but that seems too soon. I will not complain if it’s true. I would just like it tested and working good instead of it rushing for a fast release.
Hi, great light!
Are there any plans for 21700, side switch, single led setup?
I tried to convince them but no answer.
Except for the side switch “Nightwatch EC21” is just that
The side switch what he wanted first place. Except for the side switch there are thousands of options with tail clicky single led flashlights.
There are also things like the MiniGT, etc which have side switches. It’s more rare to find 21700 tubes.
That is true. But if somebody want modding the mini GT driver is glued and special. in a sofirn you can build what you want so I will keep pushing that idea to them 
I just got my C8F host in from Mountain Electronics, man this is a great looking light :heart_eyes:
I have a question for y’all though. This is my first time installing a driver into a light with a side switch, so I’m wondering where the leads get connected for the side switch. Reading around I think this is correct.
Under the green circle it says “OTC,” but it didn’t come with that resistor. Is this the correct place for the e-switch leads? I’ve read you can also connect the + to the MCU #2, and the - to any ground. But the OTC pads are supposedly better to use. I’m fairly confident that was what Richard was explaining over on his thread here: Comment #7944
Also, the driver didn’t come with any of the resistors under the yellow circle. I complicitly trust that Richard left them off for a reason. Just out of curiosity, what are they for?
R1 and R2 are typically the low voltage protection circuit. If you have Guppydrv or something like that which doesn’t use low voltage protection there’s no point in having those on there.
I usually solder one of the e-switch leads to pin 2 on the MCU. (The MCU is marked with a triangle or recessed dot at pin 1 , the board has an asterisk there, numbered 1-2-3-4 on the left in your picture, going around the clock to the other side is 5-6-7-8 with 8 being up on the inside) There is no “+” and “-” by the way, you’re just interrupting the circuit. The best ground (as if it mattered here, is the outer 3 legs of the FET, lot of space there anyway for a ground point, you could also use leg 4 of the MCU, or that OTC leg closest to the ground ring, just check for continuity with your multi-meter for ground.
FWIW, under the green circle OTC means Off Time Cap, the brown capacitor. Above it, the smaller black component is a resistor that is used to keep spikes down, this helps keep the light from flashing when entering the FET mode.
Dale, thank you so much for the info man! I was hoping to get this C8F together tonight, but I seem to be out of 20awg wire. 18 gauge fits, but 22 gauge is too big for the center hole on the driver. I definitely want the least amount of resistance on this powerhouse so I’m going to assemble it tomorrow when I get some 20 gauge. :+1:
Edit: Reverse the 18/22 gauge wires and it’ll make more sense :person_facepalming:
Don’t you mean 22AWG fits and 18AWG is too big?
Correct you are!
Sofirn has sent me two coupon codes:
18650 version C8F
20% off code: 20QSPTUA
SF14
20% off code: 2045TU4G