Did I say megawatt? ā¦ I meant millwatt! WHOOPS!!!
Wait, Eagle Eye is going to be selling an X6 triple? Will they be selling the hosts?
I bought two X6 hosts recently. One now has a 219C 9050 and a Lexel variant TA driver. Iāve been debating what to do what the second. I have most of what I need for a triple, but if there is going to be a factory triple, Iām going to save it for something else.
I didnāt say Eagle Eye was making it, I said a new mfr. for the X6ā¦ someone that hasnāt made the X6 before. (well, I guess itās more complicated than that, but theyāre not known for making one at any rate)
Ah, gotcha. I still think of the X6 as an EE light.
Got back from vacation today and had a mailbox full of light parts so I got to relax this evening at the work bench! Got to stick my first XP-L HI in an old BLF-SE X6 with a Banggood A6 driver, that all went smooth but then I ran into some real problems with an S41 buildā¦
Specs for S41:
Factory MCPCB but with 2 of the D280ās swapped for D240ās.
RMM / mtnelectronocs 17mm fet+7135 driver.
Bistro FW.
Fully bypassed head / tail.
When put together it had 18AWG, the MCPCB was soldered to head and driver was soldered to retaining ring but after I had to open it back up 12837 times that got old right quick.
Currently sporting MCPCB screws (with isolator rings for short protection), 22AWG LED wire and just a good clean surface on the mating face of the retaining ring.
So hereās my issue (feel free to skip description and watch the ~90sec video as it contains the same explication). Do note in the video I say ā28AWGā HOWEVER itās actually 22AWG,same as the LED wires, just white, exact same wire however.
Light functions and steps forward and reverse in normal modes as it should. All config options work. The 35E I was running was @ 4.0v and turbo was pulling 6.6A, you can step backwards threw normal modes and from moon to hidden turbo.
At that point the issue manifests: if you try to step back from hidden mode 1 (turbo) to hidden mode 2 (tactical strobe or w/e it is) it gives a single bright flash then goes to moon. I donāt actually care about the strobe, itās batt check (hidden mode 3) Iām after.
Thanks guys!
Dale, i have read practically every thread of the X6 triple and got inspired by your work, i love the video where you toss that thing out the window 
Its built like a tank and i really appreciate its form factor and size.
The shorty is really nice!
And what Jos says, its insanely bright for such a small light, and due to the optics the 5000K XPL2ās give a very nice beam and tint, it looks a bit warmer then the rated temperature.
Probably due to the well known yellow corona which is compensated by the Ledil Optic.
The last time i was amazed by the output was an S2+ triple with 4B xpl-hiās and lexels TA driver, which is close to this light (lumen wise) i think
Have to test them side by side actually.
This light is built by true BLF spirit :+1:
35Q? What is this?
Thatās called typing at 2am on the day I made a >8 hour drive with the wife, 2 kids and a dog lol.
Cell was a Samsung INR18650-35E, post corrected
the blink-to-moon is a glitch normally seen on multi-emitter lights that pull high power. It can be fixed with the addition of a resistor at the C1/D1 junctionā¦ djozz has posted a nice picture of a pyramid he built with the three components.
Not at my computer or Iād link itā¦ hopefully someone can point you to the fix well before I make it backā¦
Thanks Dale, havenāt yet confirmed this is / was the fix for my issue but I have high hopes!
Link should anyone else ever read this.
FWIW, Iāve never seen an A6 driver do that as it utilizes the ATTiny13A MCU, itās the X6 driver with ATTiny25 where the bump-to-moon issue comes into play and this 10 Ohm resistor solves the prob.
Confirmed that was the fix. Thanks Dale (and Djozz and all of BLF)!!!
itās easy to add the 10ohm resistor on a Mtn driver.
didnāt know that would work to pin 8ā¦
Electrically itās the same thing as the DEL /DJozz / TomE āpyramidā method, this driver is just setup a bit different than the BLF-A6 in regards to how exactly the D1 / C1 / VCC (pin8) net meet up. At the end of the day the āfixā is to add ~10ohm of additional resistance between BATT+ and VCC, logistically any method of accomplishing that should do the trick.
Note I did cut the trace going from the C1/D1 junction to VCC,otherwise the resistor wouldnāt be doing anything at all.
I made an optional charging module for my DQG titanium extension tube light.
Made from copper, brass and carbon fibre tube this has a micro USB charging port supplying a tiny ME4056 charger board modified to supply 350mA charging current. Red & green charging indicators.
Remove the flashlight head to reveal the charging unit, click the tail switch on and plug in USB lead to charge.
I find the option of on board charging very convenient these days.
Luminus SST-40 on 14mm Noctigon
MTN 15mm FET driver with GuppyDrv3 firmware
Cyan GITD LED surround
Hand made copper pill, charging unit & switch housing
Reverse clicky tail switch
Magnetic tail
Length - 104mm
Width - 17mm
Weight - 62g with 14500 cell
Max around - 1500lm OTF
Very cool! I have had that happen to 2 Mtn FET+1 drivers, I quit using them after that, just the straight up FETās since. Thanks for figuring that out! :+1:
I got my noctigon quad mcpcb and angie optic today. So I made an aluminum spacer and got it mocked up in the light. Iām just waiting on the 351dās from the GB to arrive before finishing it up. The optic is a bit small and doesnāt fill up the head but itāll work just fine.
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Looks good vinte77!
[quote=vinte77]
I got my noctigon quad mcpcb and angie optic today. So I made an aluminum spacer and got it mocked up in the light. Iām just waiting on the 351dās from the GB to arrive before finishing it up. The optic is a bit small and doesnāt fill up the head but itāll work just fine.
Nice work! Sharp host too, what light is that?
Thanks, itās a Manta Ray C8.2. Itās a nice 26650 host with a c8 sized head. The shelf is very thick, I was surprised it took me so long when I was drilling the center hole.