What did you mod today?

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KawiBoy1428
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DB Custom wrote:
Kawi, best I can tell from the picture I was sent it is made just like the original, flats on the sides.
Crying Thanks Dale!

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BlueSwordM wrote:
@Firelight2, I don’t really think CRX has a 1.5MW laser. Not even a Samsung 30T could output that much power, even 1000 of them would just cut it close.
Did I say megawatt? … I meant millwatt! WHOOPS!!!
eas
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Wait, Eagle Eye is going to be selling an X6 triple? Will they be selling the hosts?

I bought two X6 hosts recently. One now has a 219C 9050 and a Lexel variant TA driver. I’ve been debating what to do what the second. I have most of what I need for a triple, but if there is going to be a factory triple, I’m going to save it for something else.

DB Custom
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I didn’t say Eagle Eye was making it, I said a new mfr. for the X6… someone that hasn’t made the X6 before. (well, I guess it’s more complicated than that, but they’re not known for making one at any rate)

eas
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Ah, gotcha. I still think of the X6 as an EE light.

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Got back from vacation today and had a mailbox full of light parts so I got to relax this evening at the work bench! Got to stick my first XP-L HI in an old BLF-SE X6 with a Banggood A6 driver, that all went smooth but then I ran into some real problems with an S41 build…

Specs for S41:
Factory MCPCB but with 2 of the D280’s swapped for D240’s.
RMM / mtnelectronocs 17mm fet+7135 driver.
Bistro FW.
Fully bypassed head / tail.
When put together it had 18AWG, the MCPCB was soldered to head and driver was soldered to retaining ring but after I had to open it back up 12837 times that got old right quick.
Currently sporting MCPCB screws (with isolator rings for short protection), 22AWG LED wire and just a good clean surface on the mating face of the retaining ring.

So here’s my issue (feel free to skip description and watch the ~90sec video as it contains the same explication). Do note in the video I say “28AWG” HOWEVER it’s actually 22AWG,same as the LED wires, just white, exact same wire however.

Light functions and steps forward and reverse in normal modes as it should. All config options work. The 35E I was running was @ 4.0v and turbo was pulling 6.6A, you can step backwards threw normal modes and from moon to hidden turbo.
At that point the issue manifests: if you try to step back from hidden mode 1 (turbo) to hidden mode 2 (tactical strobe or w/e it is) it gives a single bright flash then goes to moon. I don’t actually care about the strobe, it’s batt check (hidden mode 3) I’m after.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Thanks guys!

Dale, i have read practically every thread of the X6 triple and got inspired by your work, i love the video where you toss that thing out the window Wink

Its built like a tank and i really appreciate its form factor and size.

The shorty is really nice!

And what Jos says, its insanely bright for such a small light, and due to the optics the 5000K XPL2’s give a very nice beam and tint, it looks a bit warmer then the rated temperature.
Probably due to the well known yellow corona which is compensated by the Ledil Optic.

The last time i was amazed by the output was an S2+ triple with 4B xpl-hi’s and lexels TA driver, which is close to this light (lumen wise) i think
Have to test them side by side actually.

This light is built by true BLF spirit Thumbs Up

  BLF

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Cereal_killer wrote:
The 35Q I was running was @ 4.0v and turbo was pulling 6.6A

35Q? What is this?
Cereal_killer
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That’s called typing at 2am on the day I made a >8 hour drive with the wife, 2 kids and a dog lol.

Cell was a Samsung INR18650-35E, post corrected

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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the blink-to-moon is a glitch normally seen on multi-emitter lights that pull high power. It can be fixed with the addition of a resistor at the C1/D1 junction… djozz has posted a nice picture of a pyramid he built with the three components.

Not at my computer or I’d link it… hopefully someone can point you to the fix well before I make it back…

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Thanks Dale, haven’t yet confirmed this is / was the fix for my issue but I have high hopes!

Link should anyone else ever read this.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1061998#comment-1061998

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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FWIW, I’ve never seen an A6 driver do that as it utilizes the ATTiny13A MCU, it’s the X6 driver with ATTiny25 where the bump-to-moon issue comes into play and this 10 Ohm resistor solves the prob. Wink

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Confirmed that was the fix. Thanks Dale (and Djozz and all of BLF)!!!

it’s easy to add the 10ohm resistor on a Mtn driver.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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didn’t know that would work to pin 8…

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Electrically it’s the same thing as the DEL /DJozz / TomE “pyramid” method, this driver is just setup a bit different than the BLF-A6 in regards to how exactly the D1 / C1 / VCC (pin8) net meet up. At the end of the day the “fix” is to add ~10ohm of additional resistance between BATT+ and VCC, logistically any method of accomplishing that should do the trick.

Note I did cut the trace going from the C1/D1 junction to VCC,otherwise the resistor wouldn’t be doing anything at all.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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I made an optional charging module for my DQG titanium extension tube light.
Made from copper, brass and carbon fibre tube this has a micro USB charging port supplying a tiny ME4056 charger board modified to supply 350mA charging current. Red & green charging indicators.
Remove the flashlight head to reveal the charging unit, click the tail switch on and plug in USB lead to charge.

I find the option of on board charging very convenient these days.Luminus SST-40 on 14mm Noctigon
MTN 15mm FET driver with GuppyDrv3 firmware
Cyan GITD LED surround
Hand made copper pill, charging unit & switch housing
Reverse clicky tail switch
Magnetic tail

Length - 104mm
Width - 17mm
Weight - 62g with 14500 cell
Max around - 1500lm OTF

KawiBoy1428
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Electrically it’s the same thing as the DEL /DJozz / TomE “pyramid” method, this driver is just setup a bit different than the BLF-A6 in regards to how exactly the D1 / C1 / VCC (pin8) junction meet up. At the end of the day the “fix” is to add ~10ohm of additional resistance between BATT+ and VCC, logistically any method of accomplishing that should do the trick.

Note I did cut the trace going from the C1/D1 junction to VCC,otherwise the resistor wouldn’t be doing anything at all.


Very cool! I have had that happen to 2 Mtn FET+1 drivers, I quit using them after that, just the straight up FET’s since. Thanks for figuring that out! Thumbs Up

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vinte77
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I got my noctigon quad mcpcb and angie optic today. So I made an aluminum spacer and got it mocked up in the light. I’m just waiting on the 351d’s from the GB to arrive before finishing it up. The optic is a bit small and doesn’t fill up the head but it’ll work just fine.

!1“>20180721_164642<sup class=1“>!

!1“>20180721_164650<sup class=1“>!

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Looks good vinte77!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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[quote=vinte77]I got my noctigon quad mcpcb and angie optic today. So I made an aluminum spacer and got it mocked up in the light. I’m just waiting on the 351d’s from the GB to arrive before finishing it up. The optic is a bit small and doesn’t fill up the head but it’ll work just fine.

Nice work! Sharp host too, what light is that?

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vinte77
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Thanks, it’s a Manta Ray C8.2. It’s a nice 26650 host with a c8 sized head. The shelf is very thick, I was surprised it took me so long when I was drilling the center hole.

KawiBoy1428
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vinte77 wrote:
Thanks, it’s a Manta Ray C8.2. It’s a nice 26650 host with a c8 sized head. The shelf is very thick, I was surprised it took me so long when I was drilling the center hole.

No kidding, Manta Ray, that is a sweet looking light, 26650 too, I want one now!!! Wink Thank you! Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

vinte77
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Happy to help, also it’s nice because it takes 22mm sized drivers.

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vinte77 wrote:
Happy to hell, also it’s nice because it takes 22mm sized drivers.

Well it just gets better and better! I like that you turned the ano off the bezel end like that, sets the whole light off, very classy look! Or is that a stainless bezel…

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Kewl, I gotta look into MRs now.

But don’t forget, the F13 takes 26650s and has a 22mm pocket. Nice host.

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The MR fits the convoy c8 stainless bezel and MR also makes their own stainless bezel too. The one on my light is the convoy one.

This host is noticeably better quality than the F13. The fit and finish is much better, and the host is a lot heftier for better heat sinking. It also comes with a/r lenses, but of course the price isn’t as good as an F13. But you get what you pay for.

DB Custom
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Nice mod on the Manta Ray, I too love that look and will probably hunt it down and bag it. Big Smile

Made a heat sink for the hollow headed Sofirn SF34 9x XM-L T6 today. (just got the light today) It made 1800 lumens stock, I then put a Q8 driver in it flashed with Anduril. A bit over 5000 lumens now. But the thin aluminum MCPCB was totally not sufficient for this, they had the reflector drilled and tapped for two screws to secure the MCPCB to it but they didn’t use any screws, actually just taped it together and added a couple of thin pieces of folded cardboard as spacers to keep it from rattling.

With a fairly thick aluminum heat sink and two screws snugging the assembly together, it works pretty well. I have to get some more 10mm SinkPAD’s to be able to use the new Samsung emitters but that’s next… Wink

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Mmmm, 2500 lemons sounds nice in that form-factor. Big Smile

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g_damian
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DB Custom wrote:
I have to get some more 10mm SinkPAD’s

Where do you buy 10mm mcpcbs?

eas
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Mt Electronics sells the 10mm sinkpads.

Re the MantaRay C8.2. I haven’t pulled the trigger, but, I inquired with the Ali Express shop to ask if they’d sell the host with an extension tube. They said they would. I wasn’t confident though whether it was an extension tube that mated with the stock 1s tube, or a one-piece 2s tube, which is what I think they use for their 2s XHP50 C8.2.

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