[PART 2] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Closed, but Public sales open!

I’m not sure what you mean by “centered on the collector”.

I measure out my distance from the sensor on the wall to the emitter. I turn the light on turbo and then go to the wall and move my lux meter around in the hot spot to find the brightest part of it.

To calculate your 10,500 lux back to 1 meter you go 10500 x 10 x 10 = 1,050,000cd.
To find the throw distance to take 1,050,000 x 4 = 4,200,000. Then find the square root of that and you get 2,049 meters of throw or a bit over two kilometers.

This sounds right in line with other people’s measurements.

I’ve heard some people get slightly different results with the GT if they measure it at 15 or even 20 meters. It seems to depend on how the beam is focused.

You can also try measuring the TN42 at 10 meters and see if it’s around 6,500 lux. I think that’s what it should be close to.

Okay.

Also, I still have not heard anything from Neal or Leo about the Issues list. Does Leo exist? :slight_smile: I’ve never heard anything from him.

On this I have no idea. I would assume it would read normally. Some DMM just don’t read amperage accurately due to resistance in the leads and connectors. I always use a clamp style ammeter.

It means with the center of the hotspot of the beam centered directly onto the light collector (the sensor thingy) of the meter at the requested 10 meters.

No, that’s not such a good idea. The very center of the hot spot can sometimes be the dimmest area. Look at this pic of my L6 and you can see the center is definitely dimmer.

The GT at 10 meters might be a different story, but I would still move the sensor around to find the brightest part of the hot spot.

I have got 1700 lumen with the TA tube… it could have been around 2000 lumen if the light doesn’t escape from the opening…

So yea … blf gt is doing around 2000 ballpark.

Yea, of course. :slight_smile: I set the meter on “max hold” or whatever the setting is, and move the beam around the sensor. when I’m done, I can walk over and see what I did.

Is there anybody who still hasn’t managed to get their GT opened using the strap wrenches? I’ve used the rubber and the nylon strap ones but it always feels as though i were going to tear the strap instead, especially the rubber one. And the GT still won’t budge!

I’ve found that using max hold can give higher readings than normal. I turn the light on turbo, then wait about 30 seconds or so for the output to drop and stabilize. While waiting is when I find the brightest part of the beam. I move the sensor back and forth around that “brightest” area and see what the highest average reading is.

Then again, my lux readings always seem lower than others. So IDK. :slight_smile:

Just a few days ago Kawiboy1428 reported at least two GT’s where the bezel threads were not cut just right or something. I dont think these were group buy lights.

From Kawiboy1428

Just a word of warning for future Lumintop customers.
Me and others still have unsolved shipping damage replacements.
Also we are ignored when asking about that.
I wrote Lumintop 6 days ago PW on this forum, they said, that someone will reply me shortly.
6 days and nothing.
Beware guys. No one cares about our broken lights because of Lumintop poor packaging.
Mike

well that’s just splendid. thankfully my 2nd GT hasn’t exhibited smoking, but i wonder what i should do with this one now. Any chance that Lumintop will send around that tool they use to open the head up?

Smoking?? Did you ‘smoke’ the reflector on one of yours??

As far as LT sending the tool around to open the head, I think the chance of that happening is just about zero. :wink:

It you have access to a big sturdy vice use that … the result will be the same.

same as me, i wrote both to leo and neal but they went silent until this day :frowning:

No…hope not anyway since when i turn it on turbo and the grease evaporates immediately, the smoke just hovers around in there and it’s gotta settle down eventually. 6 months after receiving it after all the anticipation for this lol yes i’ve been looking around for a cheap one, vises of that size cost almost as much as the GT for some reason around here and i’d rather sell it to someone who can open it than throw that cash down the gutter

Grease can’t evaporate immediately. Based on the accounts of a buyer here, if there is still some liquid flux on the mcpcb it has to be heated up for several minutes to get hot enough to start smoking. When that happens it settles on the reflector right away.

Are you maybe seeing something other than smoke? Maybe water vapor or something?

Where do you live? Are there any mechanic shops around that will let you use their vise? None of your friends have a vice?

Do you have a set of rubber strap wrenches? Have you tried one around the upper head and one around the lower head?

Here’s another way.

What happened today, you heard from them?

Or do you mean they went silent, period.

I have no strap wrenches. But i just can open gt head using diy strap. l Make ut using unused belt, and some pieces of hollow iron as handle.

Currently in mobile, will take some pic and upload its.

Sorry to hear that sp5it and zelee.

Hope there is some help and team can push neal or lt to solved yours problem.

Silence. They keep ignoring my emails.
Mike