[review] Sofirn SP32A v2

I received a pale gold example a couple days ago.

It can be disassembled to the same extent as the black example pictured in post #4 above.

If they are being glued, it’s either being done inconsistently, or part of a running change.

I’ve also seen mention that some examples were packaged with the instructions for v1; mine has the proper insert for v2.

I just got my 2 PG v2s today, pretty nice! I’m not sure how to describe the color, but PG wouldn’t be it. Maybe pewter? ’Though pix I’ve seen of pewter vary from plain silver to a light-brownish-silver like this. Definitely different, never saw a light in this color. :smiley:

Looks like someone used the package as a wheel-chock for the forklifts at the docks, as the sides were kinda crushed, but the lights inside were perfect. Nice packaging! :smiley:

Anyhoo, of course I tried ’em to make sure they didn’t suffer any internal bleeding, and they worked fine. Whew!

Worked just like my black one, didn’t see if the heads were glued or not.

Only thing that’s “different” is that on one of them, the sideswitch button sticks up a bit higher, and has a “pre-press” that does nothing. Compress it down to the “pre-press” height, and it’s exactly like the other switches. Then pressing it further acts as expected. Hmm, dunno if a retainer is loose or something, just hope it doesn’t fall out! :open_mouth:

But woohoo, it’s a sharp-looking light. :smiley:

It’s an interesting color, isn’t it? Hard to describe and changes with the lighting more than most. Too much brown to be pewter or copper.

Certainly not the off-silver/champagne I was expecting, but it still looks good.

I’d like to see it and the Convoy desert sand side by side.

Exactly, the color seems to change drastically based on ambient light. Indoors it’s one color, under office fluorescents it’s another, in sunlight it’s yet another. Pretty kewl. :smiley:

We got these 4500K LED panels to replace the hideous fluorescents, but dunno the CRI. Looks almost olive-drab or khaki. :smiley:

same as the LED basically :slight_smile:

Well, tried it just with a rubber strap wrench, but Bezel just ignores me… :stuck_out_tongue:

So, fixing the light is not possible without further effort and risk of damaging the finish.

What do the series of tiny characters below the “Hot” symbol say?

I’m curious as to whether they represent a serial number or production date, and could help explain why my PG isn’t glued, but apparently yours is.

I always assumed it said “bacon”, but it’s “SF18G41” or something.

Mmmm…hot bacon.

Mine says the same. I took a closer look, and not a speck of glue on the head threads.

Marking under Heatsymbol is same here SF18G41.

Last Weekend i realised that the driver has no retaining Ring and is also glued into the Head. I have taken a picture of v1 and v2 of the light where can see the glue in the new Version but here are only external Picture Hoster possible and i have not such an account.

Thats more than disappointing from Sofirn… :rage:

Bugger. I should be getting some nice TIRs I wanted to try in the v2, but that ain’t gonna happen if I can’t undo the head.

I imagine there’s no way to get at it from the driver side, is there? Full shelf holding the pcb?

I did an LED swap in mine last night (for a LH351D). I, too, was shocked to find that there wasn’t a retaining ring. Once I unsoldered the wires from the LED, the driver just fell right out.

Oh yeah, mine is NOT glued. I got one of the first V2.0 in black straight from Sofirn (a review unit).

Maybe this will work ….

Picture in Mailprovider Mediacenter

On the left side of the new Version you can see gray glue bubble between driver and head.

Recently received the “Gold” version. My god what a sweet light, ramping speed is fine, lighted switch, beautiful, functional design. It screams out for a quality flashlight case to be included.

Just got gold one. It’s longer than S2+, which surprised me. Also… It’s glued :person_facepalming: Why, Sofirn, whyyyyyy :’(
Number under “hot” symbol is SF18G71.

Tried 2 strap wrenches simultaneously. Any other ideas?

Let it cook on turbo for a while before strapwrenching it?

Let it tailstand so it cooks in its own juices for a while, vs conducting heat away from it by holding it or even with the straps.

I got my new TIRs and wanted to try them in it, but can’t. I lent out my black one (sans glue!) but have to wait to get it back. Well, if I get it back, that is.

I like mine, but the button is a little wonky. It feels like the shutter on my DSLR. I feel a half-press semi-click (as if to focus) push the button a bit harder and the contact is made. Besides that, for the price the light is very nice.

I got my SP32A V2.0 yesterday.I am totally pleased with it in every way!! :wink:

Fit n’ finish perfect, LED centered perfectly…… ALL GOOD! :+1:

I highly recommend this light to anyone.

I got two, and one’s like that and the other’s normal.

Here ya go…

I ended up getting another one of these as well.

The second one has the wonky two-stage click, and the switch function has become kinda wonky as well, sometimes requiring a harder press to register. A light press and you can hear some sort of boot or spacer for the button making noise.

I’ve been thinking about an emitter swap, so I figured this would make it a good candidate for experimentation, and a chance to take it apart and check out/replace the switch, but… it’s glued, and the bezel won’t budge. Inside, I see the driver is glued in, too. Ugh.

I’ve tried the Turbo mode heat soak, and it didn’t work. Maybe the freeze trick? I don’t have any strap wrenches, but do have a propane torch.

Any other suggestions?

And has anyone actually tried CR123As in the light? I may just leave it alone and throw it in the glove box as a possible sacrificial lamb.