What did you mod today?

It lives !!!

Now it only misses the glass lens to replace the stock ones which is already scratched…

The beam is not to my taste however, I might try to apply some varnish on the reflector to blend it a little…

Nice work on the Mags :+1:

Still waiting on boards for the rook driver but in the mean time I decided to find a way to put BLF-A6 FW on some more old lights and what do you know, cut one trace, solder one bodge wire and you’re G2G!

Cut trace (done on bare board for the pic)

Run jumper from star 2

Its good to see your back in action Ck. Nice work. :beer:

I got my 351ds in today, and had time to finish up my Manta Ray quad build. In my rush I didn’t notice the mcpcb was off center a tad bit and it’s eventually going to bother me so I will center it again when I have time. Here’s some pics:

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Cool.

MecArmy SGN3 with lighted switch.

Those last two lights look awesome ^

The other week I cut the back end of the body on my swm and threaded on a new blank tail piece. Today I fitted a pocket clip. I didn’t thread the Ti for the screws as I feared breaking the tap off in the hole, so it there is a couple of small nuts on the other side. Have more planned… slowly slowly…

Take a torch to that clip!

For a blue colour…??

Yes

Meh, tried bluing half the light a while ago… I cooked my SWM | Candle Power Flashlight Forum

H17F modded to run 2 individually addressable leds.
The H17F has 24 brightness levels across all 3 channels as follows,
Step 1-15 PWM, 16 (constant). Channel 1(single amc7135) Active.
Step 17-21 PWM, 22 (constant) both CH 1 & 2(all 8 amc7135) Active.
Step 23 PWM, step 24 (constant) all amc7135 & FET Active.

So the mod is to remove the FET and install an additional amc7135 for the colored leds on channel 3… but the problem is that when channel 3 is active… channel 1 & 2 are also on, so the solution was to wire CH 1 & 2 signals thru 2 P mosfets separately, I cutoff the signal traces off the PCB as shown in the 1st picture, than I wired them from the MCU to the source pin of the P mosfets, from the p mosfets drain to the gates of CH1 & 2 amc7135 bank. Than I wired CH3 signal to the gates of both P mosfets & the gate of the additional amc7135 allocated to the colored leds, only problem is step 23 which is PWM driven not cabaple of fully shutting down both P mosfets even when tried using a low pass filter

Will be used for a triple build with 3 white + 3 colored xq-e
Steps 1-22 are normal modes white light, step 23 is both white and colored combined & step 24 is just the colored led.


Love your work pp.
Fady, I always liked a bit of black magic. :slight_smile:

MRsDNF, I updated my post to explain it a little better.

I got a new toy, I got a new toy! :smiley:
My machined finish Convoy L2 is now making 2553 lumens from an XHP-35 E4 5700K HD emitter. Lovin it!

Edit: Oh, yeah, from a single 26650. :smiley:

It pulled 2.08-2.15A at the emitter for 3 minutes, pulling the Shockli 26650 down from a fresh charge to 4.09V. Ran from 8.6 lumens to 2553 lumens, so while I loved the machined finish L2 before, now it’s just POIFECK! :heart_eyes:

Ok spill the beans. What boost driver are you testing??

What boost driver did I just kill, you mean? :person_facepalming:

I, uh, seem to have gotten ahold of some old instructions and made a bridge where no bridge was designed to be. Ooops! Maybe I can hot air reflow a component and bring it back to life, checking…

Yesterday I build a p60 drop-in for Surefire G2 (nitrolon) to replace its built-in engine which has only 120 lumens output.

Got materials from Fasttech:

- Blank drop-in

- Cree XP-L V5-2A 1186.05LM 5700-6000K LED Emitter

Sorry I don’t have the WIP photos but here are the results.
I do like the tint of this emitter, I call it “pure white”.

Uh-oh. 3A in a plastic-body light? That poor LED’s gonna get heat-stroke in about a minute with nothing to wick away the heat.

I got a coupla NexTorch nylon-body lights, which come with a 1W LED drop-in, so that’s probably 350mA tops. I wouldn’t push a revamped module past 2W or so, and that only in “burst mode” (ie, get it over with quickly so the LED doesn’t burst).

Not to be Mr Glass Half-Empty, but…

@Lightbringer
Thanks for your concern, I thought about it too.

I found that the head is actually made from aluminium so hopefully it helps dissipate the heat. Although I also found that drop-in has more contact to the body than to its head. I also made precaution not to use this flashlight intensively (always carry several others for backups).