My final number with all spring bypasses with 20 AWG in battery tube and 18 AWG on driver. Fully charged LG HG2s.
21120 lumens
I did a video on setting the temperature. If your in ramping mode, make sure you ramp down and hold to get into the menu. Normal NarsilM is usually 8 secs, but I think NarsilM on the MT09R you hold down for 20 or so seconds?
Anyway, after that it should be the same menu settings and procedure.
Aaand it already died :cry:
I tried to measure lumens at 30sec. Right at 30s the light turned off. Or I thought. Now it has ramping to 400 lumens and instead of turbo it barely glowing leds. I think the fet died.
So don’t bypass your springs with wires!
I guess now you can show us pictures of the driver.
Did they use the same FET TA used? If so, I wonder what happened.
@ZozzV6, that should on not have happened. Texas Ace has done plenty of bypasses on XHP70.2 lights, and none have suffered from this fate.
I suspect the problem comes from the driver and not the LEDs.
Oh god no! :weary:
I was actually preparing to do this for when my light arrived.
perhaps the FET is only bad soldered.
Any burnt smell?
Yes it has burnt smell. I made a video of the behaviour.
And opeled it up. The fet burned. I don’t know but the driver has two places for fet. Does haikelite cut corners and used one instead of two? TA designed it to use two because the high current or not?
I think it was also melted the solder and raised by the pressure when the magic smoke came out.
I did not find any datasheet of this manufacturer by googleing the markings.
Hmmm, that is not good.
It does indeed sound like the first channel is still working but the main FET is not.
I know they said they could not get the SIR800 FET I speced for the driver in China (and used for the ~100 lights I built with high CRI LED’s that pull WAY more current then the LED’s they use).
I am thinking that instead of ordering the more expensive SIR800 from mouser / Digikey / Arrow like I suggested they changed the FET to another model.
Please do let us know what FET they are using now.
TA: I was faster 
Look up
That is even more strange, the R800 is the same as the ones I have but the rest of the markings are different and the font / layout is completely different from the SIR800’s I have.
Lexel showed another FET with the R800 marking that was rated much lower, I wounder if they used that thinking it was the same thing instead of the full model number I sent them. I sent them the parts to build 100 drivers with the proper components as well.
The high CRI 4000k LED’s I used in most of the lights I built generally pull around ~25-30% more current then the stock LED’s and they were bypassed springs as well.
So I know that the proper SIR800 can handle the stock LED’s no problem seeing as I have not heard of an issue or failure of any of the ~100 lights I built.
Thus this must be another FET.
The good news is that it is an easy fix, you can simply install a new FET for about $1 and it will be better then new.
Did you used one fet or two?
And next to the fet there is a place for capacitor. Does it good to be missing from there?
For me yes. But for a fanatic who can’t solder or repair it is a big pain. Tomorrow I will replace it. With an infineon what came from lexel.
Is that something that can be fixed with a solder iron or does it have to be put in an oven?
True but if they are bypassing the springs then I guess it is safe to assume they can solder 
That said naturally I wish they had contacted me for a replacement FET suggestion instead of just using something they found. Last I heard I sent them a link to Arrow that had free international shipping on the SIR800 and assumed they would use that.
Technically you can do it with a soldering iron although a hot air gun is far far easier. Just a few seconds with a hot air gun to swap the FET.
Where do you apply the hot air?
Not from other side of pcb I assume as the heat doesn’t go through.
Not directly on top of the FET as that can damage it I assume.
So around the edges of the FET?
Does the heat penetrate fully underneath it?
Thit is also for TA:
Does the driver has enough cooling for the fet? At work on one line we make seat heater circuits for cars. And we had problems with fets at testing them for over current protection. They had 76A continuous current rating at same package we use in flashlights but the datasheet said 6 cm2 pcb area with a specific copper layer thickness is need for cooling. The pcb designed with 1 cm2 cooling area. So we burnt a lot fet at 32A current in the testers. Do you count fet cooling specs in when design a driver?