Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

Very soon.

You mean they had regulated 30/35A?

Yes, in a few days I will have 15-24Amp versions of LD-B4 for new 3x,4x,6x mosX boards, 30-35Amps later when Sofirn releases 21700 C8F.

So if I was running 20A that means I would have like 80W of power loss at the driver?

I guess I need to look for a buck driver then :confused: it needs to work with 3 lipo cells for sure.

Thanks for your help.

Yes, linear is not solution when cell and led voltages are far apart.

Added new big 3x,4x,6x 3535/4040 CUTE/ANGIE/ANNA optics mosX boards:

https://led4power.com/product-category/mcpcbs/?orderby=price-desc

Also LH351D 90CRI 4000K Samsung is now available on all DTP boards (16mm,20mm,triple,quad):

https://led4power.com/product-category/leds1/

Tomorrow I will add big mosX boards with soldered LEDs and rest of the parts.

Will you have the spacers available soon?

Can you show a picture with the JST connector installed and hooked up?

Honestly, I’m a little disappointed. The fact that ANNA doesn’t use all potential. After assembly it will not look too good if the center optics will be “empty”.

@vinte77

Probably in 2-3 weeks, (unfortunately) it's summer vacation time.

@contactcr

Later today

@Chatika

I could make 7x pcb, this was initial idea, but spacer for C8 would be too complex to machine, it would cost a lot more than standard single central hole.

So 6x is better than existing cute-3x solutions for C8. And if you are worried about esthetics, there is ANNA-6 optic without central TIR.

Just for curiosity, what is the complex machining that would be required? I just realized that a 7x MCPCB would be great for RGBW, with 2x each red, green and blue, and the white in the center.

I think this was discussed hundred times about X6 triple and have same reasons here.
If you have central hole in pcb you dont care about rotating pcb to the spacer or spacer to the head.
If you have hole not in center, you need to fix both (to avoid wire cutting) so you need threaded holes in spacer (from both sides), holes for wires (remember that sometimes you need more than 2 wires).

Thanks kiriba-ru. I often miss those conversations because I don’t mod much. Plus, my memory isn’t very reliable. So it’s probably true that it has been “discussed hundred times” and I missed it or forgot it.

Example of fully populated 3XV-C mosX board:

Parts needed(for LD-B4):

First two "components" on the left are two small 0.6mm FR4 boards which are actual "LED" wire pads.

mosX boards are very thermally conductive everywhere which makes soldering wires directly to board very challenging, it's possible (but not easy) on 20mm size boards, but these boards are >30mm - soldering wires directly would be a nightmare. So these thin FR4 plates serve as very good thermal insulator - soldering wires should be easier than on standard copper DTP boards because those usually have 0.2mm FR4 thick laminate on surface.

For same reason there is small JST smd connector on board for signal wires (gate,NTC,moon) - in theory I could make 3rd FR4 plate for those, but I think connectors are simpler to use for end user, especially if wires with male connector are already soldered on LD-B4, in that case build is as easy as with any other normal 2-wire driver.

All parts placed:

Soldered, everything fits nicely:

Just tried it outside of flashlight with bench power supply, tint is absolutely fantastic (still can't believe it's only 70CRI,looks better than some 90CRI LEDs) complete uniformity across the whole beam, and brightness looks already impressive at just 9Amps. I think I will put this board in Kiriba-ru C8 head and drive it at 15-18Amps.

Seems very clever! Will the FR4 boards tolerate 25-35A? I want to use three parallel Luxeon MZs in direct drive (for short perdiods of time). I will also use the Kiriba-ru C8 head.

Wow! that looks very nice and professional!

There are many vias so electrical resistance is very low, that's really last part of whole flashlight circuit you should be worried about, springs will be the bottleneck for sure,even bypassed ones if not done properly.

Ok, good! I’m worried about everything! :wink:
Currently “working” on a suitable FET-switch with loneoceans, fady and lexel. Will I be able to route leads suitable for 30A through the hole in the middle of your new pcbs?

Springs are an important point. I want high spring pressure and low resistance. Maybe a multiple leads will be used for the bypass and the top of the spring might be covered with a copper or brass disc (gold plated).

LD-B4 driver has holes for up to 18AWG wires max., this is good enough for 30+Amps, there is plenty of space for wires in spacers. You don’t have to worry about switch :wink:

Soldered all variations(Luxeon V 4000K, LH351D 4000K 90CRI) just to check how everything fits, also tested them with bench power supply.

6x variants definitely put a lot of light at just ~10A, beam looks good with all optics, clear optics have some tint separation like usual, frosted cute versions bled light completely.