matik42 added to interest at number 943
Welcome to BLF olafzwaan 
I added you to interest at number 944
Rat_Racer added to interest at numbers 945 and 946
dave101 added to interest at numbers 947
interest list sorted by entry number
interest list sorted by user names
The user name list often as the last few entries not sorted in, so if you don’t find your name in alphabetical order just look at the end of the list.
Reverse polarity? I am clumsy like that.
Some updates on the mess i am dealing with outside the community, but don’t worry, i will be still working on this BLF lantern project to make it a reality for everyone, as i have dreamed of designing a lantern that has the best of what a lantern can do.
* See topic here: >> Lifes disasters seem to follow me around.
I’m also interested in one
You should make a GoFundMe page for people who want to donate
Hi, Den! Could you share more about your experience with the ECEEN solar charger?
I’m hoping to top up my iPhone and BLF Lantern during multi-day trips.
I ordered the 10 Watt ECEEN yesterday after watching this review from ‘MegaWoodswalker’ on YouTube:
He mentions a 3-minute ‘automatic reset’ feature that helps eliminate charging errors, especially with Apple devices.
He explains this feature in his video of the ECEEN 13 Watt model at the 5:05 mark:
The 13 Watt model was a big jump in price, so I went with the 10 Watt model. I purchased it on eBay for much less than I’ve seen elsewhere.
That is odd… i never of “charge errors” before. I have the exact same 10-watt Eceen model, and min has never did that reset thing, it always charged my Samsung Note-3 perfectly and the V1 of the lantern perfectly. ( after 4 ~ 5 hours of use on high mode with the V1 each night, the Eceen 10W charges it back up to full charge easily in a day of good sun. Maybe if i can get the time i should do a video review too on that panel & use my USB monitor to see how it goes.
MegaWoodswalker actually mentioned that he was confused at first, but noticed while using his USB meter that the reset was occurring exactly every 3 minutes. ECEEN commented on his 10 Watt review and verified that this is indeed a feature:
This reset feature works around Apple’s pickiness about third-party accessories (and even cables! :person_facepalming: ) working with their phones and tablets. I’ll bet that most iPhone users are familiar with the “This accessory may not be supported” error.
The way MegaWoodswalker explains it, intermittent cloud cover causes a drop in charge, which makes the iPhone think it’s connected to a questionable/faulty power source and triggers the error. The iPhone will not resume charging until power is disconnected and reconnected.
Apparently, the intermittent drops in power output can cause issues with lithium-ion battery chargers and other devices too. MegaWoodswalker has another video in which he tests many different battery chargers for compatibility with solar charging. He explains the issue at the 1:45 mark:
That’s great news. I’m excited to try capturing sunlight to be used at night. :partying_face:
That would be great. I enjoyed your BLF Lantern videos.
I think BLF Lantern users who plan multi-day trips away from electricity could really benefit from your input about a compact and portable solar charging kit.
Interested
Welcome to BLF aswang! I added you to the interest list at number 948
WhitedragonBC added to the interest list at number 949
Interested
The Samsung LH351D has been pretty disappointing to me. I just tried a Meteor M43 with Samsung LH351D 4000k 90CRI and I much prefer the stock M43 with 4000k 5D 70CRI XP-L HI. On the 4000k LH351D, everything including white appears yellowish whereas with the 4000k 5D tint, whites actually looks white. Colors are rendered more vivid on the 70CRI 4000k 5D tint compared to the 90CRI 4000k LH351D to my huge surprise. My 4000k 219B 9050 lights also does not have the yellowish tinting and renders colors even better.
Maybe consider the SST-20 95CRI 3000k as that one was tested by Djozz to be at or below the BBL so we won’t get that yellowish tinting. The Samsungs I’ve read are all above the BBL so the tint is yellowish/green.
Also consider the 219B 2700k 9050. You can order a sample from LEDRISE. They told me Nichia doesn’t have the 2700k 9080 but have 3000k - 4500k available in 9080.
The Nichia E21A is better than the 219B-V1 most applications up to 2A. It’s more efficient if you factor in the missing dome. It’s also available in a wider range of CCTs and has a more even tint because of the missing dome.
Fair enough. I was handwaving:
4×3500mAh cells = 14000mAh
1mA for 14000 hours = about 580 days = about 19 months.
I’ve seen people leave their emergency stuff unchecked for that kind of time - torches with leaky alkalines being the classic example :person_facepalming:
I’m like you, I prefer the switch LED to be constantly on when used as a locator. I have tunnel vision, so flashing LEDs are harder for me to find, especially if they only flash briefly every 5 seconds or something. I won’t even see that while I’m scanning around to find it, unless I’m supremely lucky and scan across it just as it flashes.
Besides, flashing things annoy me, which would incentivise me to recharge the lantern when the switch LED started flashing at half charge 
I’ve just realised I should do some flashing LED tests sometime and figure out what flash cycle would work best for me. I find myself speculating on something in the region of 1-2Hz at about 80% duty cycle, so it’s lit most of the time for visibility, but signals the user by blipping off rather than flashing on.
For sure. People here would probably welcome the chance to give back a bit, given your efforts to the community.
Regardless of my financial plight & current mess i have to figure out to deal with and keep my head above the water & keep from drowning so to speak, - i am still pushing on to get this lantern into a production reality for everyone here. Right now i need someone to help with creating a good CAD drawing of the lantern design based from the drawings i done, and a driver design to present to Barry for the factory to help them to continue on the lantern production prototype. Some driver stuff been worked on by some of our small team members, and the firmware is in the capable hands of Toykeeper.
What I measured on the Q8 is about 0.1 mA on high, or about 0.03 mA on low. That works out to about 16 years or 53 years of standby time with the button LED constantly on.
Anything over a decade is considered negligible since the cell will probably self-discharge faster than that.
In any case, I wouldn’t worry about parasitic drain while the lantern is off… even if the button is glowing.
Sorted. Real data always trump handwaving
There’s a way to change the brightness of the button of the Q8?
Only by changing the current limiting resistors on the board.
Though I think I remember TK had a different code load of software that slightly changed the intensity.