6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

new boards are marked as my sideswitches
S-Switch
G-Ground
L-Lights MCU controlles
some drivers got LS for permanent LED light

*also most high current new drivers got filtering for better LVP, but this makes reflashing impossible
there is a solder bridge you can open next to small C3*

.

New generation of drivers releases now

replacing the at 2S unreliable AMC7135s
DD + small FET and resistors instead

MT03/09R XHP70.2
support of permanent switch LED plus MCU indicator with resistors


30mm for Convoy L6/ Thorfire S70S
support of permanent switch LED plus MCU indicator with resistors


20-22mm with 2 FETs and also 6+1 AMC

here with 1S configuration with 6+1 AMC
I had to drill out one via on the spring side partially that secures the switch pad from lifting if soldered too hot

17mm 2S with 2 FETs


17mm LX v1.0 FET+5+1
more filtering caps for very high drain builds

Very neat. So you’ve added a second smaller FET. How does that work with bigger FET?

have no idea what any of this means. 2 fets, filtering?

Yeah, it’s confusing. The MOSFET is like a remote controlled gate that can open and close many thousands of times per second to allow electricity to flow.

Filtering is what the capacitors do. They can take small ripples in current or voltage and basically smooth it or average it out. Or they can build up an electrical charge and release it very quickly.

Most of the components on these drivers are pretty simple. You’ve got a MOSFET (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor), resistors, capacitors, an MCU (microprocessor control unit) which is like the brains of the circuit and then maybe some amc7135 current regulators. You flash your computer code (firmware) into the MCU to make it work.

I know a little bit about these driver designs, but when Lexel starts talking about them, I only understand about half of what he’s saying. LOL

2. FET in addition with 1-8 13 Ohm 0.5W resistors replaces linear regulators like the AMC7135 on higher voltage than 1S

the driver produces switch on and switch off spikes of the input voltage, usualy a battery takes quite good job on this
but on very high currents its getting more and more a problem
such spikes made here for example reset the LDO voltage regulator and making the LVP not reliable on very high currents tripping to early

for those spikes capacitors were added usually at least 10uF directly parallel to the battery
a 2.2uF capacitor on the LVP pin 7

spikes here on new more powerful PSU went out of control damaged a few drivers and killed a couple of LEDs

here the spikes on very short time setting


yellow is at the Driver input
pink after the LDO low pass
blue on a capacitor on the Power supply

Totally confused, so which pads lead to LED+, LED-, Switch ???

It is described in post 4. I’ll post it here.

Led + comes from battery spring, not a pad.


.

Thanks JasonWW,Lexel ! Restored my L6

Hi Lexel, will you be making a 17mmmm or 20mm boost drivers for clicky switch lights too? I have a convoy L2 host that I want to run an XHP35 HI on at least 2.5A Turbo, maybe 1.5A sustained high mode.

Hello. I am pretty new to modding lights but have the basic skill set necessary. I want to put a FET driver with NarsilM on my Convoy L6. What will I need exactly? I want one 30mm driver (L6 size right?) with NarsilM and the Low Voltage Protection. That’s 15.5 $ correct? Plus 5$ for shipping tracked and insured. How about springs and wires? What’s the best option for me? Thank you.

It may be a little while before you get a response. Lexel posted elsewhere that he’s having hand surgery done.

If he hasn’t answered yet, you basically have the right idea. 30mm. $15.50 sounds about right. You can reuse the existing led wires if you want or buy extra. You can get a spring if you want or swap the old spring over. He should send you a PM asking for your details and based on your options give you an exact price.

The main thing you need to figure out is what you want as a turn on response. Most NarsilM drivers do two low blinks. You can choose nothing or you can choose turbo. Choosing turbo let’s you use the rear switch to turn on turbo, then you would have to ramp it down or click the side switch.

You can get the standard lvp point and thermal stepdown point. You can reset the thermal stepdown at any time.

Yeah. I saw that last night. That’s ok. I can wait a bit more. Let’s hope everything goes well with him. Thanks.

Thanks Jason. I think I don’t want a instant turbo on when pressing the tail switch. Would annoy me too much. I wanna do a backlight switch mod after it and want to have the ability to lock and unlock the light without being blinded with 7000 lumens everytime.

I wanna swap a xhp70.2 as well but do you think it would be ok to use the stock xhp70 with the lexel driver? Just until I can get my hands on the updated version.

It sounds like you want the main led to do nothing (NO) at turn on. Only your switch lights will come on. That’s how my mini L6 is. It’s a good setup.

You can either add some leds to the stock switch or have Lexel make you a switch with leds on it.

You can use the stock emitter. Simon uses a DTP mcpcb for the L6. With good batteries it should pull about 12A or so. IIRC.

Ooh yes! That’s what I want. Just the light switch turning on. Also asking for a new switch with the leds already on it it’s a neat idea. I really don’t wanna buy a roll of 100 leds. Lol. Do you reckon how much would he charge for a switch with 2 red leds on it?

I thought Lexel’s noble work is temporarily halted or on hold for the time being? The man is going through surgery and we wish him well and fast recovery.

It is. I was made aware of this yesterday night. But it’s ok. I am in no hurry. My L6 is my test subject, if everything goes well I have so many other lights I wanna mod. Next in line is my MF02.

If you want to buy a driver in the meantime, maybe Texas Ace has something for you.

Same here. I would like to order, too.