Looking sharp Dale !
That’s one good looking Quad X6.
Is that the stock lens? It looks quite thick
I have the stock hosts’ clear o-ring on top of the optic and the AR glass lens on top of the o-ring. 
I just got the fix applied to Bistro, no more stepping down to moon from Turbo or Strobe…. the fresh charged Sony VTC5A yields a start value of 5171.55 lumens, amazing! 
Edit: YOu can click on the picture to open it in a new window then click it again there for a larger look. The set-up then shows itself, optic/o-ring/lens.
In case anyone’s wondering why I drilled the outer two holes in the base of the copper heat sink when the center hole is used, it’s to give torsional strength to the glued joint. I align the ~4mm deep holes with the original wires holes in the emitter shelf of the head so the glue has “posts” to it, really limits the ability for the whole thing to slip and twist wires.
I love using the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive as it sets up in minutes, it’s stuck in about 5 minutes and pretty much cured in 12. Another thing I like about it is that if an mcpcb just has to be removed you can heat up the board with the soldering iron and break the epoxy joint loose. Can’t do that with Arctic Silver or JB Weld, once in with those it’s just gonna stay there pretty much.
Looks like someone has a new favorite LED
I, uh, bought a tape of 25. 
$2.04 each, shipped I think.
Which CRI and color did you pick? Same 5K 80CRI?
Ayup
Arrow stocks the 5000K 90CRI Samsung now and they do free overnight shipping.
If you are a new customer they have 30% off ending today. (may be able to create a new account and use the code, idk)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics
I wanted to keep the output power bin higher, the 5000K 90CRI drops power considerably.
6XP-anna mosX PCB Demo build1 - C8 6xLH351D 4000K 90CRI (still not 100% finished):
This is how spacer will look like,a little unconventional and more complicated, but it has several advantages - build is easier once spacer is fixed and can't move, spacer is compressed with high pressure, and all wires can be soldered on driver first which is usually much easier. Hole in C8 should be ~8-8.5mm.
Driver LD-B4 18Amp for this build:
Those FR4 0.6mm thermal insulating boards are working as expected, soldering thick wires on them is very easy.
Moon mode:
I used common 1288 Omten switch and 30Q cell,so I didn't test light under full potential yet, but it's damn bright for 90CRI and it's size. Brightest 90CRI C8? Hm maybe even brightest single cell 90CRI light?
Of course big die dome led and relatively small TIR size (but much bigger than carlco optics) makes this light flooder, but it still can burn paper:)
And relatively big ALU spacer definitely works well as thermal storage because light didn't get crazy hot very fast, but it also took more time to cool down. If you are going to use this kind of light in <1min pulses with >1min pause,it is beneficial.
Wow outstanding mech mod on that pill Neven! 
I read a lot of Western’s, the term Ayup was used a lot in the hill-billy or mountain man (typical of slang from the North East US back in the mid to late 1800’s) dialect to mean Yes.
When I said that, I was in dire straits, physically, and giving a short answer before shutting down my computer.
I think it could have ist origin in some german saying, perhaps a mixture of “ja” and the slang “jup”. https://www.mundmische.de/bedeutung/1508-jup
So you’re saying I can remove mpcb’s that I have laid out on an aluminum strip with enough heat? I have a bunch of Nichias on Noctigons that I would love to recover if possible.
With Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive I have found that to be true. I typically put the soldering iron on the edge of the copper MCPCB to heat it up, the adhesive will emit an odor when it gets hot, I usually use a flat blade jewelers screwdriver and twist it to apply lateral pressure or if one of the wire holes shows the bottom of the MCPCB I will put the screwdriver against the bottom of the board and give the screwdriver a sharp rap… I actually keep a 1” wood chisel on my bench to use as a hammer for this type of situation.
I have removed glued boards many times this way.
Using Arctic Silver, or JB Weld, not gonna happen. That stuff is resilient!
Ok that’s great news, thank you Dale. I just checked and have used Arctic Alumina two part adhesive. I’ll try your method and see what I can do. Do you think the noctigons will still be useful after?
Finally got a day off and put it to good use!
Convoy s2+ w/ 2 channel red / white triple.
LEDs: 2x Nichia 219C 5000k, 1x Osram Olsen SSL80 deep red (657nm). Do note this is a 3030 LED and is VERY DIFFICULT to get it to float centered on XP pads during reflow)
Driver: hacked 105c
FW: BLF-A6, surprisingly [to me] not that modified at all.
Cut one trace on thr MTN MCPCB is all it takes to make the one individually addressable
Isolate a 7135
That soldering was easy, you can’t see the tiny wire from pin 5 to the single 7135 leg.
It needs some work still, I forgot to make the red channel come on during hidden turbo and I want to mod the levels some, maybe add a red/white strobe back in. Definitely gotta
make the 6 mode group have a little higher R1 than it does now then crank R2 to max for a low/high red mode.
Yep. :+1: