- I don’t own the Jaxman myself, so I can’t look inside it. But the picture of the UV-led on the Jaxman site sure looks more like the Royalighting led, reviewed by djozz, than like the Nichia led, shown in perfect detail in post #9 of this thread.
The Nichia is about 1 yr “younger”, so I guess it will be more efficient in emitting UV-light.
it looks like the Royalighting can endure 3*7135 AMC (3*0.35A=1.05A) when the led is mounted on a good DTP board. And yes, you hear a “but …” is coming up. When you look at the graph in the review of djozz, you notice that the forward voltage is quite high. In plain English: you need about 4 Volt to make that current go through the led. That is possible when you use a fresh off the charger 4.35V battery. In normal conditions, and with a “regular” 4.2V battery, you get 0.9A at the most. So the effective gain of adding an extra AMC is not very impressive.
I bought the banggood s2+ without a filter and had no problems. I installed a filter and saw little if any difference. Whoops! Yes I did! The light looks “cooler” now to the eye. I can also easily tell which light of that form is the UV light and not the white light. it works identically to the user with or w/o the filter from what I remember. I also use mine just a few minutes at a time. Heat might be a problem if one used it for longer, but it isn’t designed to be a mineralogy display light. I’d never pay close to $300 for a UV light when the s2+ works so good and has so much going for it. Just remember to turn it off and on as required. It’s no big deal.
Thank you again Henk4U2…… :+1: … I had forgot the Royalighting LED picture was on the review you gave the link to. I guess I had a senior moment. :person_facepalming: …
But you are correct, it does look more like it. I am gonna locate my magnifying glass and check for sure tonight.
I see that adding a 7135 AMC ‘chip’ won’t do much. Thank you for explaining why.
Royalighting - left~ Nichia UV (Convoy) - center LiteOn UV - right
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I am beginning to be fascinated by these UV LED’s……
I do not like professional UV-lights, our own build UV-lights are miles better and cheaper. The only stock UV lights that are worth considering are the Convoy and the Jaxman.
But of course I’m not a professional…
I’m glad this thread is revived. I have been threatening to buy a UV light, but I have no idea which one. The only use I have for one is to recharge glow-in-the-dark fishing lures. What are some other practical uses for UV lights?
I’m pretty sure that the lens is a ZWB2 filter and the led probably is a Seoul Viosys led. It is a pretty new light for Tank007 and almost certainly the design was inspired by modded lights posted here on BLF. The DIY build costs are about 40 dollar so they make 1000% profit.
Thanks guys for the recommendations. I like the price of the light that djozz mentioned. Is there a big enough performance difference with the convoy s2 to make it worth 3 times the price?
The main difference between the two lights is the wavelength.
The Fasttech light has 395-410nm (it is at the edge of UV light) it is a bit more purple/blue and i would not use a ZWB2 filter on this light.
The Convoy light has 365nm. Real UV light and if you use a ZWB2 Filter you can only see a bit of light untill you hit a object that reacts to UV light.
LEDs with shorter wavelength are much more expensive than the purple ~400nm LEDs. So it is normal that a light with 365nm LED is a bit more pricey (if the hosts have the same price).
It all depends on what you want to do with the light. Many disco UV lights use both. Short wavelength LED´s and 410nm+ LED´s. Because people know the old UV fluorescent tubes with purple blue light ( ~390-490nm). And they want the same feeling. But if you want for example cure Uv glue i would buy a 365nm or a 385nm UV LED. If you want to sterilize water you would use LED´s with 200-315nm.
I’ve ordered one of these recently- Fenix LD02 v2 Cree XQE HI CRI90 Warm+365nm UV AAA Money Detector Flashlight. I don’t know how good they are but Fenix are a reputable manufacturer.
As well as the usual Jaxman and Convoy I have an Amilite, made in Korea and useless, a Countryman EDC89- very bright and a Streamlight Night Com UV which is by far my favourite because it contains both 390 and 365nm LEDs but probably doesn’t appeal to a lot of people because it doesn’t fill entire rooms with eerie blue light. It is, however, great for documents and banknotes.
Additionally I have an assortment of ebay multi emitter UV lights of varying ability- I really must get a life.
Here is a recently compiled list of available 365nm UV lights https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/50830 . You won’t go wrong with the Convoy, Jaxman or even a newly released Sofirn UV light.
I have a Convoy S2+ with Nichia UV 365nm + UV filter. But, I wanted to make a “smaller” UV flashlight, let’s say, an AAA flashlight or smaller.
So, I’ve been thinking about some hosts that I can “easily” mod + the drivers they bring with (1 mode would be enough), and I wanted to know if you can say something about these flashlights:
Would they - theoretically - suit my purpose by transforming them into UV by picking their drivers?
I thought about transforming the Singfire 348 into UV (as - X3- showed above) but I’m afraid of damaging it, as the pill/driver/ler are not easily accessible (i guess).
Thanks in advance for any help :+1:
EDIT: Well, I can the Throfire TK01 as an option too! Would that driver work well with the Nichia 365?
Convoy S2+ with ZWB2 filter only way to go. I’m a little late to this thread, but for those still with questions about the filter you can get some answers here. For the fluorescent mineral hobby, a filter is a must. Other applications it may not seem so important, but a filtered light is significantly better than non-filtered.
On that note, has anyone seen the fellow selling Convoys with filter claiming that he owns a patent covering the use of glass filters in a UV flashlight. His claims are so broad, they seem to even cover any UV flashlight with any glass lens, even a clear one?
Your guess is wrong :-p
The front of the 348 unscrews, but you can’t really grab it or you’ll damage it.
Press the bezel on a stocky/rubbery surface (like the underside of a mouse pad), and simply turn anti-clockwise
Once you have unscrewed the bezel, the pill will fall
Now de-solder the LED board and reflow your Nichia 365… Voilà !
OHH, only now I noticed it can be opened :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
Well, thanks for the tip and for making me notice it can be opened
Meanwhile, I’ve done the required transformation on the Lumintop Tool AA
I re-shaped the lens and used a 1 mode driver from a SK68 clone! It is now a small twisty and is working quite well!
Thanks for the tips on the transformation on this, too :+1:
u have those where u live or
