first Emisar D4 sucessfully modded
as I had no feedback on the solder pads distance the first batch is 0.7mm off but no problem to solder even 0.75mm² wires if carefully filed the holes to one shape
the ones with Gen 3 LVP will be different, holes distance will be right and no filing as I routed wires between the 3 center holes
This is first board made, I had some mishaps like blowing it with hot air from reflow plate as the 0.6mm thick weights like nothing half the components fell of
ripped solder pad removing a resistor but in the end it works
Note that I have not ordered yet 0402 resistors so they are all 0603 too big for pads but it works at least, the 2 capacitors are 0402 and fit nicely
also replaced the original 0.35mm² wired with 0.75mm²
future board will look nicer
I would love to buy one of these with amber LEDs to replace the blue in my D4S. I am looking to make a no-blue nightlight mode. Also would be interested in amber or red for the D4. Lexel, any idea when these will be available for sale?
I’ve been thinking about using aux LEDs for illumination and the terrible beam shape that they produce. I see 3 possible fixes…and both might be hard to implement.
1. Mount them up on a pole, so they are close to the flat part of TIR
2. Add a light pipe above them to channel the light up to the flat part of TIR
3. Use optics legs as a light pipe
Is any of these doable in practice? If so is any of these a good idea?
Any other ideas?
It’s out of your focus…OK. Though I’m still interested.
The reason is that good thrower LEDs tend to have low CRI, you can have either throw or CRI but not both. OK, it’s a bit too harsh to say that you get no throw - you get some but not just a bit less; it’s way less.
Aux white illumination (f.e. with Oslon Pure) could shift that constraint. You get either high output and throw or CRI and flood. Which is not that bad tradeoff if you ask me…but the beam shape is a show stopper.
On another topic:
Lux-RC lights have a nice feature: they have a photo detector used in 2 ways:
for programming
to detect accidental activation, f.e. in a pocket - it sees the light from the main LEDs reflected back towards the light.
The second use case is what I’m thinking about now. A LED works both ways. ToyKeeper has experimented with using the main LED as a photo detector and programming the light with it. Cool trick. You can’t do this to detect accidental activation because your main LED is on.
But when your main emitter is on - AUX ones are off. Maybe they could be used to notice accidental light activation?
This looks so nice. I have been interested in this for my D4 for some time now. I see in the first post how to order (I think), but I would like to ask a couple questions.
1. Where can I see video/pictures of all the colors?
2. Does this board just mount on top of my existing D4 MCPCB and pick up power from the traces somehow, or is there wiring involved?
3. Do I just PM you an order, and you send me a paypal invoice, or something else?
