how it began can be read here
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59061#comment-1355514
each generation adds more features
Generation 1 is now available for D4, High/low capability but then LEDs dim to about 50% between full and empty battery
LVP can be added for 0.7€
Generation 2 2 groups of LEDs or rainbow added voltage stabilisation
2.8V 18uA LDO used to keep brightness stable down to about 3V battery voltage
trimmer optional
Generation 3 2 groups and low battery LED added low battery warning and LVP
lights up with constant brightness
low battery: 2 groups get switched off and red LED turns on to indicate low battery
LVP: at 3V all LEDs are switched off 2.8V LDO and IC standby current of 40uA remain
low battery and LVP can be set to custom voltages above 3V
Generation 3.1 added set of full battery indication LEDs
LVP now shuts down everything, reducing standby drain in LVP to almost nothing
any color combinations are possible each LED could have a different color
D4 based on genetration 2 tail light boards
D4S based on generation 3
Low Battery color switchand LVP shutdown
D4 Gen 2.1 (combines Gen 1 and Gen 2) with optional LVP
D4S 33mm 3 seperate trimmers to adjust inner and outer LEDs
prototype D4S in pink/green
ROT66 next to D4S
MF01
LEDs as you wish colors and patterns
450nm blue, pink, red, orange, yellow, green, ice blue, WW, CW (the yellowisch green is too inefficient)
new LED batch comparator boards for 3 brightness levels made
[LED colors] (top are most efficient, bottom inefficient)
LED color and each single LED current based on my “medium 0.5mA” brightness level
green 19.1uA
blue 21.2uA
ice blue 25.2uA
pink 30.7uA
CW 38.7uA
WW 40.2uA
red 50.9uA
orange 124uA
yellow 206uA
my LED brightness scale is based on my Rainbow+WW boards total current while LEDs seem same brightness
basically I have 5 levels “1mA”, “0.75mA”, “0.5mA”, “0.3mA” and “0.15mA”
this does only reflect on rainbow boards with WW the total current drawn
on the boards the total current depends on used colors and brightness level (“0.15-1mA”)
for example you order a “0.3mA” pink/green Emisar D4 all 14 LEDs equipped
total current 250uA
now we add 20k trimmers for brightness adjustment
total current at min trimmer level 100uA
It is possible to define a total current consumtion with trimmers on max position
I got a very complex table to calculate the needed resistances
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
prices:
D4 6€
D4 LVP 7,2€
D4 LVP plus red indicator 9€
D4S 9,5€
D4S rev 3.1 11€
ROT66 10€
MF01 12€
MF01 rev 3.1 14€
Customized colors every pattern you can imagine
single color included
up to 3 colors add 0.5€
4-6 +1€
7 or more +1.5€
+2€ on small orders below 10€ total, better buy just 2 boards
shipping untracked 1.5€
shipping tracked 5.3€
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
boards with trimmers get build with your specification as close as possible
min and max current should be given on single and two color boards
on multi color boards it gets more complicated so I try first to balance the LEDs at one current
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
You heard me
I love it, I can’t wait to add some amber afterglow to my D4 !
EDIT : will it be constantly ON ? do I need a new firmware ?
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Interested
Reviews: Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
My Patreon page to support my reviews and mods
Very interested. Will this potentially affect mode memory like the lighted tail switch?
Seeing as all the lights in his example are e-switch it may not even work correctly on mechanical switches but I guess we will see
Interested
my Bistro HD OTSM drivers are not affected by a bleeder resistor for tail switch lighted
on e-switch lights nothing gets affected by switch or TIR LEDs
but a Tail clicky light with TIR has the problem as no ground is available when the tail is off, so wont work
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Interested in D4 board. Though I don’t fully understand what it is.
first Emisar D4 sucessfully modded
as I had no feedback on the solder pads distance the first batch is 0.7mm off but no problem to solder even 0.75mm² wires if carefully filed the holes to one shape
the ones with Gen 3 LVP will be different, holes distance will be right and no filing as I routed wires between the 3 center holes
This is first board made, I had some mishaps like blowing it with hot air from reflow plate as the 0.6mm thick weights like nothing half the components fell of
ripped solder pad removing a resistor but in the end it works
Note that I have not ordered yet 0402 resistors so they are all 0603 too big for pads but it works at least, the 2 capacitors are 0402 and fit nicely
also replaced the original 0.35mm² wired with 0.75mm²
future board will look nicer
flashed NarsilM v1.2 on the Emisar
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Wow!!
Some PINK leds would go a looong way towards justifying multiple D4S purchases to my wife.
What drivers will this work on? Any e-switch?
I’m considering getting a D4 now…
I am interested in this.
Oh wow…I am really interested.
I’d be interested in an e-switch version… Possibly for a bigger light like the L6 or the S70.
Lexel ?
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
How about adding a bleeder between the spring pad and ground pad on the clicky board itself?
problem is the driver as the MCU want to power up
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
with normal D4 firmware it will be constant on as it has in the firmware the LED output pin not used
simply connect to LED+ and ground
D4S firmware has the LED pin used
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I would love to buy one of these with amber LEDs to replace the blue in my D4S. I am looking to make a no-blue nightlight mode. Also would be interested in amber or red for the D4. Lexel, any idea when these will be available for sale?
Oh yes! Really interested in this for the D4
Soooo when can we buy them for the D4 ?
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
They are already for sale
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I’ve been thinking about using aux LEDs for illumination and the terrible beam shape that they produce. I see 3 possible fixes…and both might be hard to implement.
1. Mount them up on a pole, so they are close to the flat part of TIR
2. Add a light pipe above them to channel the light up to the flat part of TIR
3. Use optics legs as a light pipe
Is any of these doable in practice? If so is any of these a good idea?
Any other ideas?
the none symetrical diamond like sparkling makes the lighted TIR, its not wanted to be a symetrical light coming out of the front
BTW I finished first Prototype of D1 TIR with direct sight on the LEDs, I also have made a board that indirect lights the gasket, but not made one yet
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
It’s out of your focus…OK. Though I’m still interested.
The reason is that good thrower LEDs tend to have low CRI, you can have either throw or CRI but not both. OK, it’s a bit too harsh to say that you get no throw – you get some but not just a bit less; it’s way less.
Aux white illumination (f.e. with Oslon Pure) could shift that constraint. You get either high output and throw or CRI and flood. Which is not that bad tradeoff if you ask me…but the beam shape is a show stopper.
On another topic:
Lux-RC lights have a nice feature: they have a photo detector used in 2 ways:
The second use case is what I’m thinking about now. A LED works both ways. ToyKeeper has experimented with using the main LED as a photo detector and programming the light with it. Cool trick. You can’t do this to detect accidental activation because your main LED is on.
But when your main emitter is on – AUX ones are off. Maybe they could be used to notice accidental light activation?
LOL…some believe that Lux-RC does it just like that:
www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?453333-Where-is-the-light-se...NXS-R1-driver-board
MF01 added
so far we got
just resistors for each LED and 2 trimmers
D1
D1S
constant brightness without LVP
D4
with LVP and color change
D4S
ROT66
MF01 under development, first board contains an error
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
This looks so nice. I have been interested in this for my D4 for some time now. I see in the first post how to order (I think), but I would like to ask a couple questions.
1. Where can I see video/pictures of all the colors?
2. Does this board just mount on top of my existing D4 MCPCB and pick up power from the traces somehow, or is there wiring involved?
3. Do I just PM you an order, and you send me a paypal invoice, or something else?
thanks, Matt
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
1. its hard to get proper pictures from a digicam
here a picture from testing out the brightness to calculate the resistors, for my eye all colors were evenly bright
from left to right
blue, pink, red, orange, yellow, green1, green2, Ice blue, WW, CW
the one green1 is very inefficient(even worse than yellow) at the currents we use it
the more purplish changed with last batches to more magenta pink, seems they changed the phosphor
2. for the D4 you need at least to connect it to battery + and – so at lerast one wire needs to go to the driver
so best is to flash D4S firmware and use the pad for the Aux LED output its there on all D4 lights but was unused
3. yes PM me for order
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards: Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
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