What did you mod today?

Last night I built up this old SK68 driver board from warhawk-AVG and then stacked it on the stripped driver board from a SolarStorm SC02 then flashed it with single mode (100% + hidden strobe) eswitch-13 FW from Tom_E then installed a Chinese no-name-brand XP size 365nm UV emitter that, other than a high vF performs very well and actually outputs a good amount of 365mn light (25mm ZWB2 filters on order from AE, does have a bit of visible light too).

This is one of the lights for my next GAW.

Power and GND connections between boards so only LED wires and the one switch wire are on top.

Looks good. How is the output relative to a FET triple?

I didnā€™t have a chance to compare, but the light is quite bright. I specā€™ed the driver to 4.2a output and 10.5a input, and ran the light on a Sony VTC6. I think that puts the light at around 2000 lumens, so I donā€™t think it puts out as much lumens as you can from a high output FET triple if youā€™re only concerned about the lumens. However, thereā€™s nice things you get from so many lumens from a single led. I will say that the light gets hot pretty fast. One word of warning, just make sure you work out the length of your battery in relation to your switch spring and battery tube since the driver comes with a brass button for contact. I crushed one of my batteries a little while testing.

Crushed because it was a longer button top or crushed because you had a long/stiff bypassed tail spring?

Crushed because there is a solid button which canā€™t deform under load.

That either meant having a longer cell like contactcr said, or perhaps he dropped the light, and that can easily result in a damaged positive electrode.

Finally upgraded the old beaten up TK35 clone with a Luxeon V (4000K) running at 6A and a LM3409 buck driver with Anduril. Should be around 2000lm on turbo with a comfortable 2.6A battery draw.

Very nice beam with the smooth stock reflector. Good tint.

Not exactly a looker, I know. Neither on the inside nor on the outside. :laughing: And you havenā€™t even seen the ugly bits.
Works like a charm though. Better than new.

what did you use for your centering ring?

A piece of acrylic, turned on the lathe. Itā€™s mostly for visual guidance during centering though, I only had a 16mm star where a 20mm would be the right size, so that was a bit tedious.
It doesnā€™t have to bear any load since the LED pill rests against the reflector flange.
It also helps keeping any dirt from getting inside.

My switch spring was a bit stiff and a bit long. Plus when I was testing out the light, I put the battery in through the head side and screwed in the head. I found that my flat top of my battery was crushed a little bit. I donā€™t think itā€™s something to be alarmed about but nevertheless itā€™s deformed a little bit, fortunately itā€™s only cosmetic. However, I can see if you have a long stiff spring on the tail side that it would be easy to crush the battery a little bit if youā€™re not careful.

I modded my Emisar D1S into a single-mode light! :person_facepalming:

Since I was reflashing AndĆŗril onto the GT mini that arrived today, I opened the D1S to update it, too.

I tested it before reinstalling the reflector, and all was well. After reassembling the front end, it wouldnā€™t power on.

It turns out my emitter board solder joints were slightly too large and positioned too far toward center. Both shorted against the reflector.

With the reflector removed, the light comes on when power is applied. I got it to ramp up and down slightly a couple of times, but itā€™s now a single-mode driver.

I hooked it back up to the PC and the ATtiny85 is still responsive. I reflashed AndĆŗril in case it was corrupted but that hasnā€™t helped.

It seems to be stuck at a moderate output level, not turbo.

Iā€™ve already emailed Hank asking how to order a replacement driver, but does anyone knows what component(s) Iā€™ve damaged?

Replace the FET. Itā€™s an Infineon Mosfet. BSC009NE2LS5IATMA1 Infineon Technologies | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey

Thanks, KB! :+1:

Looks like Iā€™ll be putting together a Digi-Key orderā€¦ :smiley:

EDIT: Or, maybe not. Theyā€™re on backorder at DK. Mouser too.

Do you live in the U.S? I have plenty of them!

You can use these too, just as good, and cheaperā€¦https://www.arrow.com/en/products/psmn1r7-25yldx/nexperia I have plenty of them tooā€¦ yeah I roast a few now and againā€¦

Itā€™s up to youā€¦. :wink:

Thatā€™s very nice of you, especially since I still owe you for the 70.2 MCPCB you sent me! :smiley:

I see that the FET you linked from Arrow is a ā€˜4-pin and tabā€™ layout.

Is that a suitable replacement for the 8-pin one on the Emisar driver? What orientation would I mount it in?

Iā€™m a bit in over my head as far as driver design and theory is concerned. :slight_smile:

Yes it works, solder across the back, Tab is ground. Same with the 4 pins in the rear of the Infineon, (underneath the FET) the large base is ground. It will all become clear when you remove the old FET.

Thanks, I removed the old FET and see what you mean.

I also readied a piece of 30 AWG Kynar wire to replace the trace that I ripped off of the board. :person_facepalming: Itā€™s the one that connects the pin 1 of the FET to R3 and R4.

Iā€™m trying my darnedest to kill this driver! Iā€™ll report back in a couple days when a new FET arrives. :slight_smile:

I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.

Do you have the original CRI80 219C or the later CRI90 219C model with reduced current?

The later 90CRI model.

What is the diameter of the D1S driver? Based on the picture, Iā€™m guessing 20-22 mm?