Well I’ve used these xhp50 leds to make a triple before so I know I like the tint. The 50.2 leds TA has are 90cri and not 80cri, I’m not sure how much difference that’ll make when it comes to the tint shift. Plus I plan on using TIR optics or a Ledil Boom reflector for the light which should eliminate or reduce the tint shift.
Ordered a 17mm BST and there are now just a handful left… XHP50.2 J4 in a C8 with OP reflector, I hope to get a nice even beam out of it.
My wild guess is an ATtiny1616. Either way I think it’s the component on the bottom which could be nice.
What is the component on the bottom? I can’t make it out.
I can’t make out the writing but it looks like it could be a 20 pin package. The ATtiny1616 data sheet shows a ATtiny1616 20-pin VQFN (on page 15) which is consistent the image.
If that’s the AVR then a attractive feature is “Single pin programming and debugging interface (UPDI)”. That along with the presence of the AVR on the exposed side of the driver is a pretty big deal.
Of course it’s a guess for now… [EDIT] a guess that’s probably wrong… There are 20 pin versions of the ATtiny25/45/85.
Mine says
A645
T25
20MUFB
A8PBYA
Maybe a tiny25-20mu
I think that makes sense. It’s good to have something concrete. Thanks.
So, who has tried the boost driver? What are your thoughts?
They seem to work well. The moon is a bit brighter than most FET+1’s at about 5lm I think? guppydrv is nice but ill prob buy the next one with Bistro if it becomes available just to have a consistent UI. The host I used is a Jaxman mini C8 w/ 50.2 so turbo basically steps down instantly. The other modes look pretty consistent though.
Very much looking forward to higher powered 20-22mm versions.
I’m running one in both an m1 and a c8 with OP reflector. Each has a 50.2 in it.
I changed out the tailswitch springs on both lights with firmer ones, because a slight bump to the tail was enough to change modes on them. They have a brass button soldered on.
I am super happy with both lights. They drop down pretty quickly, but gradually when in turbo. You barely see it, but after 20-30 seconds it’s much less bright. They don’t get terribly hot though.
I think I got around 2200-2500lm between the two. Don’t have my notes handy. A bit more from the M1, as it’s a 5000k and the c8 is 4000k. Each was with a VTC5a.
Got a s3 host and a f13 ready to go as soon as the 17mm are back in stock and the 22s are listed.
If you have a way to measure the relative output can you try to disable the thermal protection on the C8 and see if it holds a steady turbo with a fully charged battery? I want to test this but i’m afraid to try it on my tiny host w/ just a pill. Doesn’t have to be long, as long as you feel comfortable just curious if turbo is ever constant.
Was wondering if you be stocking the Noctigon Meteor M43 again?
Sure. I had it on the default temp settings, originally. Haven’t messed with much of the ui actually.
My meter doesn’t log, but I can take readings at intervals to see what it does over time.
Meaning to fully test these lights anyway.
Batteries on the charger, I’ll post back here when I’m done, hopefully tonight, possibly tomorrow.
I bumped mine up to like 185c and it still drops like a rock. Guess my host is not suited for this. I think my 50.2 4k 80cri peaks around 2050 lumens but only for a few seconds. Hoping your c8 soaks more heat and can be constant for longer. Maybe put it at 185 or 200c instead of disable at first
Here we are:
Both with fully charged VTC5a
This is the 4000k 50.2. Sphere multi for this color temp is 0.194641099 (ending battery voltage at 150 seconds was 4.01v)
and
This is the 5000k 50.2. Sphere multi for this color temp is 0.200202433 (ending battery voltage at 150 seconds was 3.99v)
Time scales are the same. 10 second intervals from 0 to 150 seconds. For some reason the second graph lost that data.
And for reference: i’m using a maukka-light calibrated, 17” spherical, BaSO4 coated, integrating sphere with a drmeter 1330b
Looks like the C8 holding relatively steady turbo for 60-70s vs 10s shows that it is adjusting correctly. Now i’m curious if adding some type of heat sink to the coil on the underside would make any meaningful difference. Maybe no point testing such a thing until it bumps up to the 20-22mm size.
Would MTN Electronics ship small items with low value in an envelope to Europe? If you do not need many things the shipping costs more than the products themself!
Unfortunately, US shipping overseas is pretty expensive… and there’s nothing RMM can do about it.
Hi Richard,
As an aside, I’ve been one of your customers for awhile now and you folks have been great with reasonable prices and fast shipping.
I was wondering though when I ordered a couple of 26350 cells, one of them was leaking, (another gent here had a leaking cell also). I know you folks get super busy and I can appreciate that but I emailed you folks about it and received silence. You folks are usually very good at answering emails.
I didn’t ask for a refund or exchange, (I actually should have), but was just alerting you to the fact that your inventory of 26350 cells may contain some faulty examples.
Anyway and like I said, I’ve been very satisfied with many orders I’ve placed with you and just wanted to make you aware of this.
Team up with someone outside of US to cover international shipping?