What did you mod today?

[vinte77]

@contactcr

Crushed because it was a longer button top or crushed because you had a long/stiff bypassed tail spring?

My switch spring was a bit stiff and a bit long. Plus when I was testing out the light, I put the battery in through the head side and screwed in the head. I found that my flat top of my battery was crushed a little bit. I don’t think it’s something to be alarmed about but nevertheless it’s deformed a little bit, fortunately it’s only cosmetic. However, I can see if you have a long stiff spring on the tail side that it would be easy to crush the battery a little bit if you’re not careful.

[goshdogit]

I modded my Emisar D1S into a single-mode light! :person_facepalming:

Since I was reflashing Andúril onto the GT mini that arrived today, I opened the D1S to update it, too.

I tested it before reinstalling the reflector, and all was well. After reassembling the front end, it wouldn’t power on.

It turns out my emitter board solder joints were slightly too large and positioned too far toward center. Both shorted against the reflector.

With the reflector removed, the light comes on when power is applied. I got it to ramp up and down slightly a couple of times, but it’s now a single-mode driver.

I hooked it back up to the PC and the ATtiny85 is still responsive. I reflashed Andúril in case it was corrupted but that hasn’t helped.

It seems to be stuck at a moderate output level, not turbo.

I’ve already emailed Hank asking how to order a replacement driver, but does anyone knows what component(s) I’ve damaged?

[KawiBoy1428]

@goshdogit

I modded my Emisar D1S into a single-mode light! :person_facepalming:

Since I was reflashing Andúril onto the GT mini that arrived today, I opened the D1S to update it, too.

I tested it before reinstalling the reflector, and all was well. After reassembling the front end, it wouldn’t power on.

It turns out my emitter board solder joints were slightly too large and positioned too far toward center. Both shorted against the reflector.

With the reflector removed, the light comes on when power is applied. I got it to ramp up and down slightly a couple of times, but it’s now a single-mode driver.

I hooked it back up to the PC and the ATtiny85 is still responsive. I reflashed Andúril in case it was corrupted but that hasn’t helped.

It seems to be stuck at a moderate output level, not turbo.

I’ve already emailed Hank asking how to order a replacement driver, but does anyone knows what component(s) I’ve damaged?

Replace the FET. It’s an Infineon Mosfet. BSC009NE2LS5IATMA1 Infineon Technologies | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey

[goshdogit]

Thanks, KB! :+1:

Looks like I’ll be putting together a Digi-Key order…

EDIT: Or, maybe not. They’re on backorder at DK. Mouser too.

[KawiBoy1428]

@goshdogit

Thanks, KB! :+1:

Looks like I’ll be putting together a Digi-Key order…

EDIT: Or, maybe not. They’re on backorder at DK. Mouser too.

Do you live in the U.S? I have plenty of them!

You can use these too, just as good, and cheaper…https://www.arrow.com/en/products/psmn1r7-25yldx/nexperia I have plenty of them too… yeah I roast a few now and again…

It’s up to you….

[goshdogit]

That’s very nice of you, especially since I still owe you for the 70.2 MCPCB you sent me!

I see that the FET you linked from Arrow is a ‘4-pin and tab’ layout.

Is that a suitable replacement for the 8-pin one on the Emisar driver? What orientation would I mount it in?

I’m a bit in over my head as far as driver design and theory is concerned.

[KawiBoy1428]

@goshdogit

That’s very nice of you, especially since I still owe you for the 70.2 MCPCB you sent me!

I see that the FET you linked from Arrow is a ‘4-pin and tab’ layout.

Is that a suitable replacement for the 8-pin one on the Emisar driver? What orientation would I mount it in?

I’m a bit in over my head as far as driver design and theory is concerned.

Yes it works, solder across the back, Tab is ground. Same with the 4 pins in the rear of the Infineon, (underneath the FET) the large base is ground. It will all become clear when you remove the old FET.

[goshdogit]

@KawiBoy1428

It will all become clear when you remove the old FET.

Thanks, I removed the old FET and see what you mean.

I also readied a piece of 30 AWG Kynar wire to replace the trace that I ripped off of the board. :person_facepalming: It’s the one that connects the pin 1 of the FET to R3 and R4.

I’m trying my darnedest to kill this driver! I’ll report back in a couple days when a new FET arrives.

[Mark_M]

I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.

[maukka]

Do you have the original CRI80 219C or the later CRI90 219C model with reduced current?

[Mark_M]

The later 90CRI model.

[Jaded]

What is the diameter of the D1S driver? Based on the picture, I’m guessing 20-22 mm?

[Mark_M]

ToyKeeper states it is slightly over 22mm.

Emisar D1 / D1S review

Emisar D1 / D1S Hank of Intl-Outdoor sent me a D1 and D1S to play with, and people have been asking for a review… [image] Both lights are single-emitter compact throwers. The D1 is smaller with less throw, while the D1S is larger with more throw. Both lights out-throw almost everything else in their size class. Disclaimer: I’m not an impartial reviewer. I made part of the firmware for these lights and may be doing more development for Emisar in the future. Note 2: The lights aren’t wobbly…

[Jaded]

Thanks. If a replacement driver can’t be acquired from Hank, I think I’ll consider TA 22mm driver.

[DominikM]

Petzl Tikka XP
Luxeon RX0HW -> Cree XP-G3 S5 tc 5000k

[djozz]

^ wow, 4 times the output with an emitter swap!

[djozz]

@Mark M

I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.

Are those the 5000K 90CI LH351C emitters from Arrow? That is a disappointing first result from this led, at this current a lower performance than 219C and not a great tint.

[Mark_M]

@djozz

@Mark M

I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.

Are those the 5000K 90CI LH351C emitters from Arrow? That is a disappointing first result from this led, at this current a lower performance than 219C and not a great tint.

Correct, it is those same emitters.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I keep hearing about tint issues with the LH351 but the ones I got from Arrow are very consistently pleasing, no green or rosy hues. I got the D model at 5000K and 80 CRI and the 40 I’ve used have been excellent. Price was very good as well at around $2.04 each shipped.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Oh, and Kawi? The large pad under the MOSFET may indeed be the negative lead to the emitter but it definitely is not ground! Let ground touch that and you’re in direct drive from the cell with no modes, bypassing the driver…

Just to be clear for those that are new to all this.