All the control modes and functions are focused on a single switch, and I’m worried about how long it will last with a high lifetime of frequent clicks
You can get a replacement switch assembly from the Sofirn store on AliExpress for about $2.98
Yep… here is a link in fact. Go ahead & get you a spare or two while the getting is good. I sure did….
$3.01 is the latest price it seems.
Did anyone else notice the AR glass is actually a bit thick? The non-AR glass is 2.85mm and allows the bezel to sit mostly flush, but the AR version is almost 3.1mm and leaves a noticeable gap behind the bezel. Output difference is about 4.5% for me.
So after a year of usage my backlight to the button decided to crap out.
Recently it was mostly dead as it was just flickering and getting dim but if the flashlight was activated and turned off or the batteries pulled and closed then it came back.
Now its just dead, dead dead. No green light whatsoever no matter what I do.
Other than that it working without any issues, and ultimately doesn’t bother me much but if I can fix it I would.
I have taken apart the flashlight and saw the basic things like wires are attached nothing appears to be rattling, but haven’t completely torn it down
Any one have any idea what should I look for? Burned out diodes or resistors? and where?
Or can I purchase the button assembly and just replace the whole thing?
So after a year of usage my backlight to the button decided to crap out.
Recently it was mostly dead as it was just flickering and getting dim but if the flashlight was activated and turned off or the batteries pulled and closed then it came back.
Now its just dead, dead dead. No green light whatsoever no matter what I do.
Other than that it working without any issues, and ultimately doesn’t bother me much but if I can fix it I would.
I have taken apart the flashlight and saw the basic things like wires are attached nothing appears to be rattling, but haven’t completely torn it down
Any one have any idea what should I look for? Burned out diodes or resistors? and where?
Or can I purchase the button assembly and just replace the whole thing?
The fault seems to be inside the pcb, it’s unfixable. The only way to correct it is to replace it.
Still in need of a replacement. I have not had a working beacon since about 3 weeks from purchase. Responded to the PM with my full address, and never received a response. That was on 11/5/2017…
So after a year of usage my backlight to the button decided to crap out.
Recently it was mostly dead as it was just flickering and getting dim but if the flashlight was activated and turned off or the batteries pulled and closed then it came back.
Now its just dead, dead dead. No green light whatsoever no matter what I do.
Other than that it working without any issues, and ultimately doesn’t bother me much but if I can fix it I would.
I have taken apart the flashlight and saw the basic things like wires are attached nothing appears to be rattling, but haven’t completely torn it down
Any one have any idea what should I look for? Burned out diodes or resistors? and where?
Or can I purchase the button assembly and just replace the whole thing?
The fault seems to be inside the pcb, it’s unfixable. The only way to correct it is to replace it.
Interesting. I would have not expect PCB issues at that low of a voltage and current.
Well if there is a way of purchasing replacements then let me know where.
Otherwise I’ll live with it
So after a year of usage my backlight to the button decided to crap out.
Recently it was mostly dead as it was just flickering and getting dim but if the flashlight was activated and turned off or the batteries pulled and closed then it came back.
Now its just dead, dead dead. No green light whatsoever no matter what I do.
Other than that it working without any issues, and ultimately doesn’t bother me much but if I can fix it I would.
I have taken apart the flashlight and saw the basic things like wires are attached nothing appears to be rattling, but haven’t completely torn it down
Any one have any idea what should I look for? Burned out diodes or resistors? and where?
Or can I purchase the button assembly and just replace the whole thing?
The fault seems to be inside the pcb, it’s unfixable. The only way to correct it is to replace it.
Interesting. I would have not expect PCB issues at that low of a voltage and current.
Well if there is a way of purchasing replacements then let me know where.
Otherwise I’ll live with it
Use the link in the above post, choose “color” and it shows the 3 seperate parts. The switch is $3.04.
There was some type of a defect in the pcb of the original switch. It had nothing to do high voltage or current.
Still in need of a replacement. I have not had a working beacon since about 3 weeks from purchase. Responded to the PM with my full address, and never received a response. That was on 11/5/2017…
I don’t know any of your details. Who did you PM? The Miller? He may have left by then. If you need a replacement switch, the only place to get it is the link above.
For the PCB. In my experience if they pass their initial QC they are good unless exposed to elements or chemicals.
I’ve seen some prepreg core cracking when doing high temp burn in but that was relatively freak accident and on high power board that were under a lot of stress
My Q8 is like new, no problems at all and is used almost daily.
Only thing I had to fix is led on switch, but it wasn’t working good when I got it. If you followed tread you may know about that problem on first units.
Replaced switch pcb and no problem all this time.
—
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
okay good, not that i worry really it seems like a robust well built light compared to convoy l6, astrolux lights that i have etc.I feel strange it took me so long get it but never too late as u say.
I feel strange it took me so long get it but never too late as u say.
I joined that group buy early and still haven’t bought one, so no need to feel strange. I’m holding out for a CW version. Sofirn might be releasing an updated version of the Q8. We’ll have to wait and see.
The Q8 is actually the biggest longterm test of overdriving leds BLF-style since we started doing that in 2013. I have always wondered if 3A leds driven at 5A would eventually fry the leds, that never could be tested, and so far so good
Very big battery drain for me.
Not switched to the working position when not used.
The battery drain (parasitic drain) on the Q8 should be super tiny. It should take many years to drain the batteries. You can also turn off the switch lights to reduce the drain even more. Of course, if you are not going to use the light for a long time it’s best to turn the battery tube to cut all power.
Have you measured the drain on your light? What was it?
Very big battery drain for me.
Not switched to the working position when not used.
That’s strange. Wasn’t the switch supposed to drain next to nothing and not affect the charge for a looooong time?
Yes, here are the specifics:
Parasitic Drain
Parasitic drain is the draw of amps (power) when the flashlight is off and the processor goes into a deep sleep mode, cutting as much power consuming features as it can, but still able to wake up when the button is pressed. Here’s the measured numbers on full or near full cells, after being off for more than 6 seconds:
with switch LED on: 135 µA
with switch LED off: 22 µA
In switch Lock-Out mode, the switch LED is off. There’s also a quick trick method to turn off the switch LED when the light is OFF:
from OFF, press&hold until moon mode comes on (or hold longer)
then quickly release the switch, and quickly click to turn the light OFF
the switch LED should be off now even with the main LED off
To put it in perspective:
22 µA takes 5 years to drain 1,000 mAh, so with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 60 years, in theory of course
135 µA with the switch LED on takes 10 months to drain 1,000 mAh, with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 10 years
When the light is first turned off, it continues running the processor for 6 seconds, then drops into it’s low drain, deep sleep state. The amount of amps is somewhat dependent on the cells, so partially depleted cells, and cells with higher resistance will have a lower parasitic drain.
Not measured the drain.
Not used often and find critical voltage when checked.
One 30Q did not recover anymore.
That is not how it should be, there may be a current leak other than through the driver electronics. I’m curious if others have the same observation. If this unexpected high drain is a general feature of the Q8 it is wise to physically lock out the light when not in use, which would be a pity because Tom put in lot of effort to make it so low.
I have a total of 6 Q8’s – most for emergency lights – we loose power often – all sit for months at a time without any unusual drain. They all have been in use since shortly after the group buy.
$3.01 is the latest price it seems.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32879434650.html?trace=storeDetail2msiteDe...
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
By the time the switch would wear out there would be a whole new Next Level of Technology flashlights. Lol
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
I’m pretty sure the switches are the usual cheap ones and I replaced a couple of them in different lights meanwhile (not Q8 up to now).
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
My 6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest Entry
Just received my Q8 via Amazon AU. Oring problem here too. Reapply grease to no avail. Has fasttech orings helped?
They worked just fine to replace the damaged O ring on one of my Q8s – but the original worked well until I messed it up
If the problem is not the grove that the O ring sits in they should fix your problem
Did anyone else notice the AR glass is actually a bit thick? The non-AR glass is 2.85mm and allows the bezel to sit mostly flush, but the AR version is almost 3.1mm and leaves a noticeable gap behind the bezel. Output difference is about 4.5% for me.
So after a year of usage my backlight to the button decided to crap out.
Recently it was mostly dead as it was just flickering and getting dim but if the flashlight was activated and turned off or the batteries pulled and closed then it came back.
Now its just dead, dead dead. No green light whatsoever no matter what I do.
Other than that it working without any issues, and ultimately doesn’t bother me much but if I can fix it I would.
I have taken apart the flashlight and saw the basic things like wires are attached nothing appears to be rattling, but haven’t completely torn it down
Any one have any idea what should I look for? Burned out diodes or resistors? and where?
Or can I purchase the button assembly and just replace the whole thing?
The fault seems to be inside the pcb, it’s unfixable. The only way to correct it is to replace it.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
Still in need of a replacement. I have not had a working beacon since about 3 weeks from purchase. Responded to the PM with my full address, and never received a response. That was on 11/5/2017…
Interesting. I would have not expect PCB issues at that low of a voltage and current.
Well if there is a way of purchasing replacements then let me know where.
Otherwise I’ll live with it
Here are the replacement parts.
Driver PCB:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLF-Q8-Driver-Chip-Q8-Circuit-Board/3286...
Button PCB:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLF-Q8-Accessories-lighted-switch-assemb...DTP-MCPCB-Reflector-for-Q8/32879434650.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.11.2f6750fezazRs6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10151_10065_10344_10130_10068_10547_10342_10343_10340_10548_10341_10696_10084_10083_10618_10139_10307_10059_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_6,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=474edbba-3c2d-438c-8e2f-27eab16f5339-1&algo_pvid=474edbba-3c2d-438c-8e2f-27eab16f5339&priceBeautifyAB=0
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Use the link in the above post, choose “color” and it shows the 3 seperate parts. The switch is $3.04.
There was some type of a defect in the pcb of the original switch. It had nothing to do high voltage or current.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
I don’t know any of your details. Who did you PM? The Miller? He may have left by then. If you need a replacement switch, the only place to get it is the link above.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32879434650.html?spm=a2g0n.shopcart-amp.it...
.
.
Edit: I’m a slow typer… look like this is old info.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Great thanks guys! I’ll order one.
For the PCB. In my experience if they pass their initial QC they are good unless exposed to elements or chemicals.
I’ve seen some prepreg core cracking when doing high temp burn in but that was relatively freak accident and on high power board that were under a lot of stress
All those that have the q8 for a long time now, does it still work like a charm, the button is not weared out etc ??
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
My Q8 is like new, no problems at all and is used almost daily.
Only thing I had to fix is led on switch, but it wasn’t working good when I got it. If you followed tread you may know about that problem on first units.
Replaced switch pcb and no problem all this time.
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."
My reviews:
Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1
okay good, not that i worry really it seems like a robust well built light compared to convoy l6, astrolux lights that i have etc.I feel strange it took me so long get it but never too late as u say.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
I joined that group buy early and still haven’t bought one, so no need to feel strange. I’m holding out for a CW version. Sofirn might be releasing an updated version of the Q8. We’ll have to wait and see.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
Mine are still going strong at this point…. no problems.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The Q8 is one of those must have lights that everyone should own.
The Q8 is actually the biggest longterm test of overdriving leds BLF-style since we started doing that in 2013. I have always wondered if 3A leds driven at 5A would eventually fry the leds, that never could be tested, and so far so good
link to djozz tests
Very big battery drain for me.
Not switched to the working position when not used.
That’s strange. Wasn’t the switch supposed to drain next to nothing and not affect the charge for a looooong time?
The battery drain (parasitic drain) on the Q8 should be super tiny. It should take many years to drain the batteries. You can also turn off the switch lights to reduce the drain even more. Of course, if you are not going to use the light for a long time it’s best to turn the battery tube to cut all power.
Have you measured the drain on your light? What was it?
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
Yes, here are the specifics:
Parasitic Drain
Parasitic drain is the draw of amps (power) when the flashlight is off and the processor goes into a deep sleep mode, cutting as much power consuming features as it can, but still able to wake up when the button is pressed. Here’s the measured numbers on full or near full cells, after being off for more than 6 seconds:
In switch Lock-Out mode, the switch LED is off. There’s also a quick trick method to turn off the switch LED when the light is OFF:
To put it in perspective:
When the light is first turned off, it continues running the processor for 6 seconds, then drops into it’s low drain, deep sleep state. The amount of amps is somewhat dependent on the cells, so partially depleted cells, and cells with higher resistance will have a lower parasitic drain.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results - FW3A 3D Test Results
I’m far from last instance. Just my experience…
Not measured the drain.
Not used often and find critical voltage when checked.
One 30Q did not recover anymore.
That is not how it should be, there may be a current leak other than through the driver electronics. I’m curious if others have the same observation. If this unexpected high drain is a general feature of the Q8 it is wise to physically lock out the light when not in use, which would be a pity because Tom put in lot of effort to make it so low.
link to djozz tests
I have a total of 6 Q8’s – most for emergency lights – we loose power often – all sit for months at a time without any unusual drain. They all have been in use since shortly after the group buy.
I would guess this is an isolated problem.
OK. I put new battery 30Q (first use) from BG after full load and measured about 3050-3100 mAh.
After about a week (now) its about 3.96
mAhV.I’m happy with my Q8. I bought 3 of them.
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