6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

Wow 3$. Almost feels like a steal! Hahaha. Yes I am very interested. As long as it feels the same quality as the Stock L6 switch I’ll be definitely getting one of those. Thanks Jason

The problem with Texas Ace is that he ships it from the US. Shipping will be more expensive than the driver it self. I was looking at MTN Electronics and they have the L6 driver even a bit cheaper but shipping alone was 16$. It’s not worth it.

Oh sorry forgot you were from Brazil.

I would just order a driver from Simon itself then.

I want a FET driver with NarsilM. Simon doesn’t make those unfortunately.

Hmmmm.

This is problematic indeed.

It’s no big deal. You just have to wait a bit longer. This is something we are very used to. :smiley:

https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/theshorelinemarket_2537_2773331122#jmui=f%3A1426%3A305419896%3A0T..r6.0q67d_7EqGI4r4f0v

https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/theshorelinemarket_2536_22927262#jmui=f%3A1426%3A305419896%3A0T..r6.0q67d_7EqGI4r4f0v

Hi Lexel,

I’m new in BLF, I bought RRT-3 in 2011. It’s a quite powerful flashlight at that moment.
She’s still a good light, I still love her ring control UI as usual. Buy now days, 1950lumens seem a bit under power for such a ‘big’ light.

I would like to upgrade my Jetbeam Raptor RRT-3 to
XHP50.2 x 3 (original mcpcb is xm-l t6 x3 in series)
Hopefully you may offer a suitable driver for this mods?

Thank you.

I would first try to boost the output with high binned SST40s or XML2s. That would give a nice boost in brightness without doing much work.

Then bypass the springs with 20AWG/22AWG wire.

And that’s about what you could do without replacing the driver.

If you want to, you will have to wait until Lexel recovers.

Thanks for your advise.
I’d bypass the spring and reflow to xml2s, but it’s doesn’t impressed me.
May be I should consider SST-40 and increase the output ampage but I’m not sure which capacitor shall I change.
I’ll upload the driver photos by tomorrow.
Hopefully can get some new ideas to increase the output.

Btw, Lexel replied my PM and it’s too much work and $$$ for this mods.

Lexel, Thanks again.

The SST-40 has a lower forward voltage. It will produce extra output at the same amperage.

That’s such an old light design. Nowadays you could get something like a BLF Q8 for $45 that can do 5000 lumen, etc… Maybe there is a modern day equivalent.

My guess is that almost any mod for that light will be a challenge. Retaining the functionality of the mode ring with a new driver will be a challenge.

New emitters with the existing driver could deliver more output due to increased efficiency, though it probably wouldn’t be enough to really notice. Chances are you will have to reuse the existing MCPCB or cobble together something. The existing MCPCB will limit you to 5050 emitters, like XM-L2, SST-40, XHP50 (likely won’t work with existing driver, also heat may be an issue).

Modding the driver could deliver more current, but on its own, maybe just enough to notice, but this again runs into the heat issue without an MCPCB replacement. Perhaps the two together would produce enough improvement to feel worthwhile.

Lexel responded your message already? Hmmm. I thought he wasn’t answering just yet due to his hand surgery. I’m still waiting his response on my L6 driver. Should be a lot easier than what you are looking for, damn, awesome project.

I’m pretty new to the flashlight acquisition world, with the exception of some Maglights acquired of decades and a few disposable LEDs. But lately I have acquired a few of these: a couple of Olight, a couple of Imalent, a couple ThorFire (including BLF Q8), and quite a few Astrolux. The interface that I really like is the one in the BLF Q8. I wish all of my flashlights had the ramping feature. I would like to upgrade my Astrolux MF01 and MF02 lights to have the ramping feature. I’ve never done any flashlight modding, but from reading this forum what Lexel is offering may be what I’m looking for to accomplish this. I’ve watched a few videos regarding this, such as those put out by Matt at AdventureSportFlashlights. I’m not sure that I’m ready for this, but I really do want to get these two lights, especially the MF01, having a ramping mode. Please don’t beat me up for this, but is there a minimalist way to accomplish this? Perhaps requiring just a little soldering and not wholesale replacement of parts on a driver board. Any constructive advice that you can give or direction that you can point me would be appreciated. I’d like to do the same with some Astrolux C8s I have, so perhaps I should start there first.

Jeff

The MF01 requires replacing the driver board completely plus modifying the leds wires to get the voltages correct. So it’s not too hard. I don’t think it’s glued. It is glued.

The MF02 requires a driver swap, but it is glued shut. You’ll need special tools and techniques (vice, heat gun, strap wrenches, etc…) to get it opened up.

To use NarsilM (ramping) requires a light with an e-switch or electronic switch (simple contact usually side mounted). The regular C8’s use a mechanical on/off switch (usually tail mounted) so they won’t work.

Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?

new MF01s v2 are glued hard on the bezel with red locktite to get to the LED board,
very hard to get open, I heat it up to 140°C and then CNC machined brackets for bezel and head

the v2 500-1000 or 1500 were not glued, but need a LED and carrier mod for the Buck driver
MF01s v1 the first 500 have old LED board and can be used with simple driver swap

MF02 needs a simple Carrier mod or my replacement boards plus driver swap
MF02 heads were always glued first with blue stuff then with white stuff, but not as bad as MF01

Olight are really hard to get to the guts usually possted and press fit bezels

Its likely they use a buck driver with constant current output, so a LED swap wont do much output gain

You have to define what driver you are refering to.

Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

No, pretty much all drivers have at least one MCU controlled LED pinout (1S 3 Channel, 2S 2 Channel)
on most recent drivers I have also one pin with a resistor to vcc or 5V LDO added, so both Switch LED channels can be simply soldered to a pad and have a resistor on the driver

I say yes, you say no. Did I misunderstand the question? The second half of our answers are the same. I’m confused.