@ToyKeeper: The beacon mode is pretty nice for having you remind you of tasks that you have to do periodically. However when N clicks corresponds to seconds, the maximum I’d bother to set is 30 seconds or so. How about a kind of timer, where you can set minutes as well?
Looking at the code, it occurs to me that the maximum delay it’ll allow is 65 seconds. It uses a 16-bit integer for the number of milliseconds to wait, and that maxes out at 65.535 seconds.
The timer is not very accurate though. In reality, it could be anywhere from 60 to 70 seconds. And it doesn’t actually sleep between pulses, so it still uses a milliamp or so while waiting. It’s not really designed well for use as a timer with long intervals.
There is a compile-time option to allow it to ‘tick’ every half-second while asleep, which is a far more efficient way to measure time while off, but it’s even less accurate… and it’s not quite half a second. More like every 0.512 seconds, plus or minus 15%. It allows aux LEDs to blink while the light is asleep, on lights which have that, but it’s still not great for long-interval beacons.
OTOH, candle mode is okay for timing things in very rough half-hour increments. It may take anywhere from 27 to 33 minutes per cycle, but if that’s acceptable, and if half-hour time slices are acceptable, it can be used as a timer. I find it’s nice in the bath, for example. When the candle goes out, it’s time to get out of the tub.
If it were up to me, I’d make the next one a single-emitter model with 18350 or 16340. Basically a clone of the Olight S-Mini, with better emitter choices and fancier firmware.
i <3 u
18350 please
+100
As long as the head mates to the 18650 body tube as well, though! This is exactly what I’m wanting next too. Previously, I’ve been considering machining a new, longer bezel ring for the 3A to accommodate a KD reflector (might try polishing one too). I was planning on desoldering ~2-3 of the 7135s to better suit the single emitter current ranges as well. Lastly, add an off center hole for the wires and voila!
If it were up to me, I’d make the next one a single-emitter model with 18350 or 16340. Basically a clone of the Olight S-Mini, with better emitter choices and fancier firmware.
i <3 u
18350 please
As long as the head mates to the 18650 body tube as well
The S-Mini doesn’t have swappable body tubes. It would be significantly bigger if it did, and then it would no longer be “mini”.
If it were up to me, I’d make the next one a single-emitter model with 18350 or 16340. Basically a clone of the Olight S-Mini, with better emitter choices and fancier firmware.
i <3 u
18350 please
Maybe a bit off-topic, but as long as the tangent isn’t disrupting news about the FW3A…
That got me looking into SMini modding info, which led to the following thread, especially this post that I think would be awesome.
I don’t know what kind of driver the SMini has, but even if Anduril couldn’t be reasonably made compatible with it, a good linear + FET driver in that size light would still be very, very interesting to me.
Personally, my preferred form factor prioritizes slim vs. short, so I’d go for 14500 over 16340 even if it doesn’t have AA support, but either would disappear a lot more easily in my pocket than my D4, or even than the FW3a will.
Personally, my preferred form factor prioritizes slim vs. short, so I’d go for 14500 over 16340 even if it doesn’t have AA support, but either would disappear a lot more easily in my pocket than my D4, or even than the FW3a will.
Yeah, I generally like the shape of 14500 more than 18350. But it’s harder to fit a driver in a narrower host, and 18350 offers quite a bit more battery capacity. Some AA/14500 lights end up larger than the S-Mini in all dimensions, even diameter, like the Zebralight SC52. Some are still narrower though, like the L3 L10.
I’m not sure what would be ideal. I find the FW3A is small enough to carry, especially compared to other 18650 lights, but I’d still prefer something smaller and lighter.
Yeah, like a D4 with 2 xpl-hi V2 3A and 2 xpl-hi V2 5D in the 18350 tube running Anduril . . .
I carried a D4-18350 for a while, but it didn’t really hit the spot. I want something I can clip to me and forget about until I need it, but the D4 shorty is too wide and lacks a good clip. The FW3A does this better than any other 18650 light I’ve tried, but even with such a compact host sometimes 18650 is a bit heavy for that purpose.
In a purse or a pocket is a different matter though. I carry much bigger stuff in there.
In a purse or a pocket is a different matter though. I carry much bigger stuff in there.
Yeah, I haven’t had the need for more than 3k lumens yet, but who knows that may change. I hear ya on the clip, but for as heavy as the D4 is not sure I would use it much. Still considering glueing a magnet to the tailcap though . . .
—
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
….. but I’d still prefer something smaller and lighter.
EDC Lighters can be made in most any size and shape.
Years of field research and tests have convinced the world’s largest producer of disposable lighters the size people want for pocket carry.
….. but I’d still prefer something smaller and lighter.
EDC Lighters can be made in most any size and shape.
Years of field research and tests have convinced the world’s largest producer of disposable lighters the size people want for pocket carry.
Size people can be made really small nowadays, with the right hormones researchers have managed to make them suitable for EDC pocket carry.
….. but I’d still prefer something smaller and lighter.
EDC Lighters can be made in most any size and shape.
Years of field research and tests have convinced the world’s largest producer of disposable lighters the size people want for pocket carry.
Size people can be made really small nowadays, with the right hormones researchers have managed to make them suitable for EDC pocket carry.
I find the FW3A is small enough to carry, especially compared to other 18650 lights, but I’d still prefer something smaller and lighter.
Yeah, like a D4 with 2 xpl-hi V2 3A and 2 xpl-hi V2 5D in the 18350 tube running Anduril . . .
!{height:500px; width:800px}https://i.imgur.com/usPSnw3.jpg!
Can you show beamshots of that (2× 3A + 2× 5D tints)?
What is the estimated maximum drain in turbo (maximum mode) with 18650GA cells? Getting good 18650 batteries in my country is not easy/cheap and there are few companies willing to transport them for a reasonable price, so I need to plan 18650 purchases in advance.
I would recommend buying Samsung 30Qs instead, as much as you can afford. One of the best all around high capacity high drain cells. At 5-10A power levels, it maintains higher voltage until 3,3V-3,1V, meaning more brightness, and more capacity at that level.
I know that this takes time to accomplish, to get the things done, but everytime I see new(er) post(s) on this thread I think to myself “This is it, it’s now that we’ll have some news about this light”!
And then I come to see it and…my hopes go away
I am and will be connected for this light, I want some for me and I’ll give one on my GAW, but this is really getting a long time to accomplish! I will not blame those involved (to whom I thank, seriously!!!) nor Lumintop, but…it’s getting to my nerves. And I am a patient guy, normally!
I see some projects being accomplished with other manufacturers, way faster than this. Of course, the complexity of some of them are not the one of the FW3A, but it seems that things get faster, with lots of less interested people!
This said, I’d really really like to see this getting done before the Winter!….
I know that this takes time to accomplish, to get the things done, but everytime I see new(er) post(s) on this thread I think to myself “This is it, it’s now that we’ll have some news about this light”!
And then I come to see it and…my hopes go away
Neal told me yesterday that he’d ship new prototypes that day.
It’s not much news, but it’s all I’ve got for now.
I’m hoping it’ll show up soon, with everything working, and then production can start. I might still send new firmware though, because I’ve continued to update it.
On a related note, I have LH351D 5000K 80CRI emitters in my FW3A at the moment, with a 10507 optic. These are not the ones to be used in production, but they’re the closest I could get easily. So the tint is all wrong, but the beam pattern should still be pretty similar.
This shot is underexposed on purpose to show beam pattern and tint. The camera’s white balance is set to “daylight” (5000K). And the lights are at low levels, which makes the tint look as bad as possible. It doesn’t look anywhere near this bad in real life.
On the left is a ROT66-219b at ~4700K. On the right is a FW3A with LH351D 5000K 80CRI, apparently from a rather green tint bin. The emitters used in production should be 1000K warmer, with higher CRI, and not green.
The 10507 optic gives the LH351D a big wide hotspot with a defined edge and virtually no spill. With a 10511 optic, the beam is floodier and smoother with no noticeable color variation and no edges.
I know that this takes time to accomplish, to get the things done, but everytime I see new(er) post(s) on this thread I think to myself “This is it, it’s now that we’ll have some news about this light”!
And then I come to see it and…my hopes go away
Neal told me yesterday that he’d ship new prototypes that day.
It’s not much news, but it’s all I’ve got for now.
I’m hoping it’ll show up soon, with everything working, and then production can start. I might still send new firmware though, because I’ve continued to update it.
Well, that is something !!! I hope that these are the “last” (hopefully) things that need to be defined so that production can start.
About the FW, put all the meat in the grill for this light! I hope it can be a great light since the first try, so that nothing (or at least few things) has to be changed later!
That is also a reason why I don’t mind waiting longer times.
I was going to ask about the emitters too. Any news about going for 1 or 2 options?
It is good ti know that it will not have “greens” on the beam! When they arrive I’ll probaly put a 10508 on the (I prefer it over 10511). But, so far so good.
I guess we all will be waiting for some feedback on this prototype and other aspects related! Thanks TK for the “update”, and for those that will follow
Looking at the code, it occurs to me that the maximum delay it’ll allow is 65 seconds. It uses a 16-bit integer for the number of milliseconds to wait, and that maxes out at 65.535 seconds.
The timer is not very accurate though. In reality, it could be anywhere from 60 to 70 seconds. And it doesn’t actually sleep between pulses, so it still uses a milliamp or so while waiting. It’s not really designed well for use as a timer with long intervals.
There is a compile-time option to allow it to ‘tick’ every half-second while asleep, which is a far more efficient way to measure time while off, but it’s even less accurate… and it’s not quite half a second. More like every 0.512 seconds, plus or minus 15%. It allows aux LEDs to blink while the light is asleep, on lights which have that, but it’s still not great for long-interval beacons.
OTOH, candle mode is okay for timing things in very rough half-hour increments. It may take anywhere from 27 to 33 minutes per cycle, but if that’s acceptable, and if half-hour time slices are acceptable, it can be used as a timer. I find it’s nice in the bath, for example. When the candle goes out, it’s time to get out of the tub.
I am a very late comer, but nevertheless, interested in 1-3 depending on price and final specifications.
+100
As long as the head mates to the 18650 body tube as well, though! This is exactly what I’m wanting next too. Previously, I’ve been considering machining a new, longer bezel ring for the 3A to accommodate a KD reflector (might try polishing one too). I was planning on desoldering ~2-3 of the 7135s to better suit the single emitter current ranges as well. Lastly, add an off center hole for the wires and voila!
The S-Mini doesn’t have swappable body tubes. It would be significantly bigger if it did, and then it would no longer be “mini”.
Maybe a bit off-topic, but as long as the tangent isn’t disrupting news about the FW3A…
That got me looking into SMini modding info, which led to the following thread, especially this post that I think would be awesome.
I don’t know what kind of driver the SMini has, but even if Anduril couldn’t be reasonably made compatible with it, a good linear + FET driver in that size light would still be very, very interesting to me.
Personally, my preferred form factor prioritizes slim vs. short, so I’d go for 14500 over 16340 even if it doesn’t have AA support, but either would disappear a lot more easily in my pocket than my D4, or even than the FW3a will.
Yeah, I generally like the shape of 14500 more than 18350. But it’s harder to fit a driver in a narrower host, and 18350 offers quite a bit more battery capacity. Some AA/14500 lights end up larger than the S-Mini in all dimensions, even diameter, like the Zebralight SC52. Some are still narrower though, like the L3 L10.
I’m not sure what would be ideal. I find the FW3A is small enough to carry, especially compared to other 18650 lights, but I’d still prefer something smaller and lighter.
Interested depending on final specs; hopefully XPLHI 4000k.
Sorry for the absence,
I have to update list.
Thanks ToyKeeper for your work.
Sorry for my bad English
(google translator) , (https://www.deepl.com/translator)
Yeah, like a D4 with 2 xpl-hi V2 3A and 2 xpl-hi V2 5D in the 18350 tube running Anduril . . .
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
I carried a D4-18350 for a while, but it didn’t really hit the spot. I want something I can clip to me and forget about until I need it, but the D4 shorty is too wide and lacks a good clip. The FW3A does this better than any other 18650 light I’ve tried, but even with such a compact host sometimes 18650 is a bit heavy for that purpose.
In a purse or a pocket is a different matter though. I carry much bigger stuff in there.
DQG Tiny 18650 should still weigh slightly less. <10g more than D4 18350.
Yeah, I haven’t had the need for more than 3k lumens yet, but who knows that may change. I hear ya on the clip, but for as heavy as the D4 is not sure I would use it much. Still considering glueing a magnet to the tailcap though . . .
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
Could you please add me to the list
I’d be interested in 2!
Could you please add me to the list?
Thanks!
Put me down for 2 please! If there’s a 219C option, I’d love that. If not, any NW will do. Will these come with pads/vias for Lexel’s flashing key?
EDC Lighters can be made in most any size and shape.
Years of field research and tests have convinced the world’s largest producer of disposable lighters the size people want for pocket carry.
Size people can be made really small nowadays, with the right hormones researchers have managed to make them suitable for EDC pocket carry.
link to djozz tests
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I am in for two.
Can you show beamshots of that (2× 3A + 2× 5D tints)?
I can, and will, but likely will be a few days. I’ll let you know when I post it for sure.
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
What is the estimated maximum drain in turbo (maximum mode) with 18650GA cells? Getting good 18650 batteries in my country is not easy/cheap and there are few companies willing to transport them for a reasonable price, so I need to plan 18650 purchases in advance.
I would recommend buying Samsung 30Qs instead, as much as you can afford. One of the best all around high capacity high drain cells. At 5-10A power levels, it maintains higher voltage until 3,3V-3,1V, meaning more brightness, and more capacity at that level.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/64047
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I think I’m out on this one, please remove me from the interest list.
I know that this takes time to accomplish, to get the things done, but everytime I see new(er) post(s) on this thread I think to myself “This is it, it’s now that we’ll have some news about this light”!
And then I come to see it and…my hopes go away
I am and will be connected for this light, I want some for me and I’ll give one on my GAW, but this is really getting a long time to accomplish! I will not blame those involved (to whom I thank, seriously!!!) nor Lumintop, but…it’s getting to my nerves. And I am a patient guy, normally!
I see some projects being accomplished with other manufacturers, way faster than this. Of course, the complexity of some of them are not the one of the FW3A, but it seems that things get faster, with lots of less interested people!
This said, I’d really really like to see this getting done before the Winter!….
REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 Triple TIR & XP-G2
GIVEAWAY - 1
little late to the party, interested in 1 please
I love my wife’s toy poodle
Neal told me yesterday that he’d ship new prototypes that day.
It’s not much news, but it’s all I’ve got for now.
I’m hoping it’ll show up soon, with everything working, and then production can start. I might still send new firmware though, because I’ve continued to update it.
On a related note, I have LH351D 5000K 80CRI emitters in my FW3A at the moment, with a 10507 optic. These are not the ones to be used in production, but they’re the closest I could get easily. So the tint is all wrong, but the beam pattern should still be pretty similar.
This shot is underexposed on purpose to show beam pattern and tint. The camera’s white balance is set to “daylight” (5000K). And the lights are at low levels, which makes the tint look as bad as possible. It doesn’t look anywhere near this bad in real life.
On the left is a ROT66-219b at ~4700K. On the right is a FW3A with LH351D 5000K 80CRI, apparently from a rather green tint bin. The emitters used in production should be 1000K warmer, with higher CRI, and not green.
The 10507 optic gives the LH351D a big wide hotspot with a defined edge and virtually no spill. With a 10511 optic, the beam is floodier and smoother with no noticeable color variation and no edges.
Well, that is something !!! I hope that these are the “last” (hopefully) things that need to be defined so that production can start.
About the FW, put all the meat in the grill for this light! I hope it can be a great light since the first try, so that nothing (or at least few things) has to be changed later!
That is also a reason why I don’t mind waiting longer times.
I was going to ask about the emitters too. Any news about going for 1 or 2 options?
It is good ti know that it will not have “greens” on the beam! When they arrive I’ll probaly put a 10508 on the (I prefer it over 10511). But, so far so good.
I guess we all will be waiting for some feedback on this prototype and other aspects related! Thanks TK for the “update”, and for those that will follow
REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B018 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 Triple TIR & XP-G2
GIVEAWAY - 1
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