Does anyone know if the Eagle Eye X2R can be used with a lighted tailcap? Or, the other way around, does a lighted tailcap work properly on the EE X2R?
Thanks in advance! :+1:
EDIT: I found this here:
Can anyone confirm or elaborate on the grey working or not, please? 
I added the lighted tail cap, but no bleeder, and the light works, but it has next mode memory.
Since I use this light in my car and infrequently, it’s not that big a deal.
The process is pretty much the same, but the code has to be specific. There are threads here on the forum about it.
You can buy drivers from MTN Elec or Lexel.
Thanks again for the reply JasonWW! I will take a look at it then 
Thanks! Bought some hardwares and now waiting for drivers.
I tried without and with a number of bleeder resistor values but did not get the lighted tail working on the X2R without it messing with the timings (and I think I remember there was something wrong with the charging also). The next mode memory that Jason got is in fact the light seeing any amount of time, including infinity, as a short “off” , which is interpreted as a half-press and thus going to the next mode.
This is kind of an old thread so I don’t remember it real well, but I’m sure there was somebody that said they added a bleeder resistor and the light worked normally. Maybe they were wrong or I’m just remembering it wrong?
You remembered it right :person_facepalming: , look what I just found in my stash?
…with perfectly functioning UI with last mode memory. And now I remember what the problem was: another X2R I modded with a FET-driver, on top of the stock charging board. All ki d of things went wrong there, including the lighted tail. Later I did a lighted tail on a stock X2R and that went fine. In the light in the pic I found that I used a 670 Ohm bleeder, I found a place for it on the spring-side of the driver.
Sorry MB about the wrong information.
Okay, so I might as well add the bleeder resistor to my light. Do you have a picture of where it mounts?
It looks like I scratched away some solder mask to make a solder pad.
Gothcha, thanks.
do you ever sleep?
I’m a night person. Assuming your a day person, then you and I are probably awake and asleep at very simular times. So it just SEEMS like I’m awake all the time.
I scored a V11R that I want to mod.
Want to put a 5D xm-l2 in it, but I can’t find a good source for the led. Intl outdoor has a minimal orderqt of 5 making it 35 dollar ex shipping.
Anyone know a good source?
So, guys, I’ve tried to remove the driver side retaining ring on my Astrolux C8. I’ve tried doing it clockwise, counterclock wise, but nothing works.
My hemostats manage to unscrew retaining rings on every light I have, except this one.
Some help would be very thankful.
@Geuzz, there is this:
A bin lower than the MTN Electronics bin, but much cheaper including shipping.
Thanks for the help, but shipping to the Netherlands kills it.
I ordered an even lower bin at fasttech, but I am still looking.
Btw. Astrolux c8 is one of the few c8s I never had. Can’t help you with that one.
Yeah. Digikey and Mouser are the only source for some reason where I found XML2 5Ds, but shipping kills it as you said.
I’m just thinking, but being a small thing, wouldn’t it be possible to ask someone from US to buy it for you them send in a normal envelope as a letter?
Unfortunately, buying from MTN has a very expensive shipping, so that could be some alternative, if there would be no damage for the LED…
Beat me to it. Was gonna suggest
https://www.fasttech.com/search?xm-l2%205d
but yeah, they’re a little bit lower in output.
So, I’m waiting for a couple of C-AA sleeves to put some AA eneloops in this light.
I’m wondering if it’s possible to take a busted incan base, solder in a Yuji 5mm from mtn and just drop it in? Is DD from 2S AA gonna kill it?