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odriewniffe
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Coscar
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Jay wrote:
phlowcus wrote:
On a review on GB I just read this lamp offers custom tint? How on earth would I set that? I can only switch between cold and warm tint and set the brightness respectively.

From on -> double tap to enter mode for tint ramp -> long hold to adjust tint (release and long hold again to change directions) -> single tap to confirm selection

I still dont understand what this mode is for and how it is useful. I understand the tint changes and you can go directly from cool to warm in a single ramp but how does that affect how the lantern operates when you are in either the individual cool or warm modes…. Can someone explain?

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

matik42
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JasonWW
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Coscar wrote:
Jay wrote:
phlowcus wrote:
On a review on GB I just read this lamp offers custom tint? How on earth would I set that? I can only switch between cold and warm tint and set the brightness respectively.

From on -> double tap to enter mode for tint ramp -> long hold to adjust tint (release and long hold again to change directions) -> single tap to confirm selection

I still dont understand what this mode is for and how it is useful. I understand the tint changes and you can go directly from cool to warm in a single ramp but how does that affect how the lantern operates when you are in either the individual cool or warm modes…. Can someone explain?


Instead of selling two versions, one CW and one WW and having people complain the CW is too blue or the WW is too yellow and why is there no NW, etc… they let you choose the color you want. It gives their lantern an advantage compared to their competitors. It’s an advantage for them in that they only make one version. You can’t mistakenly ship the wrong tint to a customer which would cause them to lose money “fixing” the mistake. Wink

I think that answers your question. Let me know if I misunderstood.

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ggf31416
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If I understand correctly from this thread, you can configure the warm light mode to use a mix of the cool emitters and the warm emitters, say run the CW leds at 40% and the WW leds at 60%,instead of running the WW leds at 100% and the CW leds at 0%. That creates an intermediate tint that may be more pleasant for some eyes than the extremes.

There is no separated warm light mode, it’s the mixed/custom mode that happens to be set by default as 100% warm.

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I’m still perplexed by the confusing UI (I just leave it on WW and just tweak the brightness if I really need to), but I think there’s WW mode, CW mode, and mixed-mode, so 3.

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ggf31416 wrote:
If I understand correctly from this thread, you can configure the warm light mode to use a mix of the cool emitters and the warm emitters, say run the CW leds at 40% and the WW leds at 60%, instead of running the WW leds at 100% and the CW leds at 0%. That creates an intermediate tint that may be more pleasant for some eyes than the extremes.

There is no separated warm light mode, it’s the mixed/custom mode that happens to be set by default as 100% warm.


I think that’s correct. You can switch between CW and the custom mode back and forth and each have their own brightness level. I’ll try to make a video of it.

It is giving my Note 4 fits trying to film it. It may take a few days so I can try some different techniques.

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superbob47
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Coscar
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JasonWW wrote:
I think that answers your question. Let me know if I misunderstood.

Well Kinda…………….

Lightbringer wrote:
I’m still perplexed by the confusing UI (I just leave it on WW and just tweak the brightness if I really need to), but I think there’s WW mode, CW mode, and mixed-mode, so 3.

If mine is just ‘on’ I have it on lowest WW(reportedly 24/7= 3 weeks) and if I need more light I tap it once to go to the highest CW… then when I am though I tap it once to go back to the low WW. I leave it on most of the time and recharge every couple of weeks.

If the “third” mode is just a mixed tint mode that doesnt affect the other CW and WW modes, then I understand. Just seems I read somewhere about changing & saving a tint, Im still not sure that is possible or if so if has anything to do with the other two(CW/WW) modes.

Thanks for your 2 cents ………

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

Coscar
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@JasonWW……. I just replace my Note2 with a Note9 ……… boy what an upgrade!

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

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discovered a possibly dangerous flaw & fire/explosion hazard with this T1 lantern. Measured the inside battery tube temperature of 67 degrees C+ ( read post #11 >> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1373743#comment-1373743

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Yeah guys. Do not buy the Zanflare T1 anymore!

Regular <10A capable cells are not rated at more than 60°C operation.

Going above that temp is dangerous not only for big cycle life degradation, but also safety.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

tatasal
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DBSAR wrote:
discovered a possibly dangerous flaw & fire/explosion hazard with this T1 lantern. Measured the inside battery tube temperature of 67 degrees C+ ( read post #11 >> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1373743#comment-1373743

Samsungs, and perhaps other cells, are rated up to 75degrees Celsius

http://dalincom.ru/datasheet/SAMSUNG%20INR18650-25R.pdf

quote:

9.4 Heating test Test method: To heat up the standard charged cell at heating rate 5℃ per minute up to 130℃ and keep the cell in oven for 10 minutes. Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.

BlueSwordM
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That does not mean it is good for capacity degradation.

Also, high drain cells can tolerate higher temperatures than low drain cells.

Laptop type cells/very high capacity cells are only rated up to 60°C.

You will lose capacity a lot faster.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

tatasal
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BlueSwordM wrote:
That does not mean it is good for capacity degradation.

Also, high drain cells can tolerate higher temperatures than low drain cells.

Laptop type cells/very high capacity cells are only rated up to 60°C.

You will lose capacity a lot faster.

Oh well, personally I wouldn’t lose sleep over a $5 cell nowadays by fearing capacity loss in that case.

I can’t hold my Acebeam K60 when in Turbo mode till the 4 cells can no longer sustain it as its scorching hot. Human hands are lot more not resistant to heat compared to these electrical/electronic components.

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tatasal wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
discovered a possibly dangerous flaw & fire/explosion hazard with this T1 lantern. Measured the inside battery tube temperature of 67 degrees C+ ( read post #11 >> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1373743#comment-1373743

Samsungs, and perhaps other cells, are rated up to 75degrees Celsius

http://dalincom.ru/datasheet/SAMSUNG%20INR18650-25R.pdf

quote:

9.4 Heating test Test method: To heat up the standard charged cell at heating rate 5℃ per minute up to 130℃ and keep the cell in oven for 10 minutes. Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.

Not everybody will have that go as safely as that. ( as on my you tube channel i force-vented various 18650 cells using a propane torch, some took a lot of heat & time, while some of the older weaker ones let go in seconds of heat contact. I was testing my T1 earlier with a older panasonic 3000mah cell, and after a hour running on high W/W mode, i began to notice the sweet-smell of death from it. i took the cell out and it was gassing that sweet smell & extremely hot. (tossed the battery outside in a metal pail.) 18650’s and high temperatures are not a good mix regardless if its a new or old cell. it shortens the life of the cell, and if its a damaged cell or an unstable one then its a hazard in this lantern. To have the battery in a metal tube that is directly a heat-sink for the LEDs is a bad idea in the first place regardless of the argument.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

tatasal
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DBSAR wrote:
tatasal wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
discovered a possibly dangerous flaw & fire/explosion hazard with this T1 lantern. Measured the inside battery tube temperature of 67 degrees C+ ( read post #11 >> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1373743#comment-1373743

Samsungs, and perhaps other cells, are rated up to 75degrees Celsius

http://dalincom.ru/datasheet/SAMSUNG%20INR18650-25R.pdf

quote:

9.4 Heating test Test method: To heat up the standard charged cell at heating rate 5℃ per minute up to 130℃ and keep the cell in oven for 10 minutes. Criteria: No fire, and no explosion.

To have the battery in a metal tube that is directly a heat-sink for the LEDs is a bad idea in the first place regardless of the argument.

This is true, but this lantern probably won’t go beyond the temp you have tested, just well below a good cell’s temp limit.

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Repeat from DSBARs thread:

No one should be jumping on the bandwagon until they get all the facts first.

We need to hear from the manufacturer about their thermal limit tests. It’s possible DBSAR has a malfunctioning unit. Probably not, but we need to gather up all the facts and data before condemning a product.

It is actually not that bad of a design seeing as most flashlights are made similarly. If you leave a flashlight running long enough the heat near the LED will travel down through the length of the battery tube and it will heat up the battery just the same. I guess the big difference between a flashlight and this lantern is that one has an exposed battery tube so that the surrounding air can pull heat away from it. The lantern doesn’t have any way to circulate the air around it’s battery tube.

It’s quite possible that this entire situation can be fixed/corrected by using a simple insulating sleeve around the inner battery tube to prevent a battery from touching the metal walls and absorbing that heat.

A long-term solution would be for the driver design to be tweaked to step down the brightness at a certain temperature.

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Coscar wrote:
@JasonWW……. I just replace my Note2 with a Note9 ……… boy what an upgrade!

Yeah, that’s a pretty big jump. I’ve only had my Note 4 for 3 years. I bought it right before the Note 5 came out. I didn’t like the 5’s lack of features.

Were you as shocked as I was to find out they don’t subsidize the cost like they used to? In exchange for a 2 year commitment I only paid like $250 for the Note 4. Now you have to pay the full price. Sucks. Sick

I guess I’ll be getting a Note 9 as well. What is up with these terrible stylus colors? You have to choose between an ugly yellow and an ugly lavender. I just want basic black. Lol

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Lightbringer wrote:
I’m still perplexed by the confusing UI (I just leave it on WW and just tweak the brightness if I really need to), but I think there’s WW mode, CW mode, and mixed-mode, so 3.

I see it as a two mode lamp:

1) is constant cool white and you can choose your brightness

2) you can choose the brightness and the color temperature. Default is WW

Operation:
A single tab switches between 1) and 2)

When you hold you can set your brightness.

A double tab sets 2) to WW and with hold you can set the temperatur. You must confirm with a single tab.

Coscar
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JasonWW wrote:
Coscar wrote:
@JasonWW……. I just replaced my Note2 with a Note9 ……… boy what an upgrade!
Yeah, that’s a pretty big jump. I’ve only had my Note 4 for 3 years. I bought it right before the Note 5 came out. I didn’t like the 5’s lack of features.

Sorry Jason, I just realized I misspoke….. I meant I upgraded to the Note8. I guess I said Note9 because of the current talk. Im not one that gets a new phone every couple of years but I really like the Note8. Ive heard the 9 is not much of an upgrade from the 8 but big things are predicted for the 10.

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience

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joechina wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
I’m still perplexed by the confusing UI (I just leave it on WW and just tweak the brightness if I really need to), but I think there’s WW mode, CW mode, and mixed-mode, so 3.

I see it as a two mode lamp:

1) is constant cool white and you can choose your brightness

2) you can choose the brightness and the color temperature. Default is WW

Operation:
A single tap switches between 1) and 2)

When you hold you can set your brightness.

A double tap sets 2) to WW and by holding you can set the temperature. You must confirm with a single tab.


I think this is a very good explanation.

You also have to be fast with the dbl taps.

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Coscar wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Coscar wrote:
@JasonWW……. I just replaced my Note2 with a Note9 ……… boy what an upgrade!
Yeah, that’s a pretty big jump. I’ve only had my Note 4 for 3 years. I bought it right before the Note 5 came out. I didn’t like the 5’s lack of features.

Sorry Jason, I just realized I misspoke….. I meant I upgraded to the Note 8. I guess I said Note 9 because of the current talk. I’m not one that gets a new phone every couple of years, but I really like the Note 8. I’ve heard the 9 is not much of an upgrade from the 8 but big things are predicted for the 10.


Yeah, 8 and 9 are pretty similar, unfortunately the 8’s are not any cheaper now that the new model is out. Same full price. Sick

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Wimpy Water wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
discovered a possibly dangerous flaw & fire/explosion hazard with this T1 lantern. Measured the inside battery tube temperature of 67 degrees C+ ( read post #11 >> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1373743#comment-1373743

Very strange this was not discovered earlier, surely if there are over heating issues many who previously purchased would have noticed ?

I purchased this lamp to use as a night light for the children when it came back into stock, ramping WW down to minimum should be okay, I hope……..but my children are my raison d’être so I’m extremely concerned.

@ freeme,

Will you come out and offer your opinion on this potential fire hazard as some of us have small children still to grow up ?

In my case it was a used older cell that overheated & began to gas fumes due to the battery tube being hot from the LED that are attached to it inside. It may not happen to all 18650 cells, but its still a potential risk with a weak, older, cheaper, or damaged cell in the lantern. When it comes to lanterns in particular, i focus on all safety concerns and potential hazards. No doubt that most who have this lantern may never have a problem, but the risk is there because of the flaw in that design using the same battery tube metal as the LEDs direct heatsink. My personal feelings on this lantern is that Zanflare either reduce the maximum mode amp load, or re-design the LEDs to be on a separate sleeve with an air-gap from them to the battery tube.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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About 400pcs sold for the past 2 months, thank God, I have yet to heard any serious injury or complaint so far. I recalled that one or two member did express their concerns when tailcap felt hot (40°C+ range) during usage.

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Wimpy Water wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
No doubt that most who have this lantern may never have a problem, but the risk is there because of the flaw in that design using the same battery tube metal as the LEDs direct heatsink.

That’s very reassuring to know, thank you.

In your opinion will using a 3x AAA to 18650 battery converter totally remove the potential of this issue……I’m only using it as a night light but where my children are concerned I sometimes may be over conscious with imagine scenarios of the lamp smoking while they’re both asleep.

3xAAA adaptors are much bigger than 18650. In lights that can use 3xAAA either the 18650 rattles around inside or a plastic sleeve adaptor is used around the 18650. So unless a device is designed with 3xAAA in mind, it will not fit in place of an 18650

Beam me up!

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Wimpy Water wrote:

@ JasonWW

Do you realize you may have been lured away from the reported issue matter…………….or are you two in cohort ?

Please stay on topic or PM if you wish to chat about Samsung devices as it offers little interest for people reading these threads.
As you’re both off-topic, this request doesn’t seem unreasonable.


Lured away? Cohorts? Ha, that’s laughable.

You should go to DSBAR’s thread where we are discussing his problem in more detail.

Ps, I’m pretty good at juggling conversations. I usually have 30 or so going at any one time.

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JasonWW
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Wimpy Water wrote:
DBSAR wrote:
No doubt that most who have this lantern may never have a problem, but the risk is there because of the flaw in that design using the same battery tube metal as the LEDs direct heatsink.

That’s very reassuring to know, thank you.

In your opinion will using a 3x AAA to 18650 battery converter totally remove the potential of this issue……I’m only using it as a night light but where my children are concerned I sometimes may be over conscious with imagine scenarios of the lamp smoking while they’re both asleep.


In your situation, have you considered running it without a battery? I think you would need a 90° micro USB cable. Even then it may not sit flat. If hung from the handle, any usb cord would work.

Running it direct from USB with no battery limits the max output, but should be more than bright enough for a “night light”. There is no excess heat and no battery to cause a problem. Plus it will run forever.

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ggf31416
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freeme wrote:

About 400pcs sold for the past 2 months

If I’m still interested in the lantern should I wait for you to PM me a code or should I buy from the flash sale while there is still stock left?

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If they made the base out of aluminum it should fix the overheating issue, maybe add a few mild fins to the base as well. Although this would increase the cost.

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