The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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JasonWW
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Okay, so I might as well add the bleeder resistor to my light. Do you have a picture of where it mounts?

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djozz
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It looks like I scratched away some solder mask to make a solder pad.

JasonWW
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Gothcha, thanks.

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djozz
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JasonWW wrote:
Gothcha, thanks.

do you ever sleep?
JasonWW
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djozz wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Gothcha, thanks.

do you ever sleep?

I’m a night person. Assuming your a day person, then you and I are probably awake and asleep at very simular times. So it just SEEMS like I’m awake all the time. Wink

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Geuzzz
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I scored a V11R that I want to mod.

Want to put a 5D xm-l2 in it, but I can’t find a good source for the led. Intl outdoor has a minimal orderqt of 5 making it 35 dollar ex shipping.

Anyone know a good source?

BlueSwordM
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So, guys, I’ve tried to remove the driver side retaining ring on my Astrolux C8. I’ve tried doing it clockwise, counterclock wise, but nothing works.

My hemostats manage to unscrew retaining rings on every light I have, except this one.

Some help would be very thankful.

@Geuzz, there is this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cree-inc/XMLBWT-00-0000-000BT6...

A bin lower than the MTN Electronics bin, but much cheaper including shipping.

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Geuzzz
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Thanks for the help, but shipping to the Netherlands kills it.

I ordered an even lower bin at fasttech, but I am still looking.

Btw. Astrolux c8 is one of the few c8s I never had. Can’t help you with that one.

BlueSwordM
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Yeah. Digikey and Mouser are the only source for some reason where I found XML2 5Ds, but shipping kills it as you said.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Geuzzz wrote:
Thanks for the help, but shipping to the Netherlands kills it.

I ordered an even lower bin at fasttech, but I am still looking.

Btw. Astrolux c8 is one of the few c8s I never had. Can’t help you with that one.

I’m just thinking, but being a small thing, wouldn’t it be possible to ask someone from US to buy it for you them send in a normal envelope as a letter?
Unfortunately, buying from MTN has a very expensive shipping, so that could be some alternative, if there would be no damage for the LED

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Geuzzz wrote:
Thanks for the help, but shipping to the Netherlands kills it.

I ordered an even lower bin at fasttech, but I am still looking.

Beat me to it. Was gonna suggest

https://www.fasttech.com/search?xm-l2%205d

but yeah, they’re a little bit lower in output.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

manithree
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So, I’m waiting for a couple of C-AA sleeves to put some AA eneloops in this light.

I’m wondering if it’s possible to take a busted incan base, solder in a Yuji 5mm from mtn and just drop it in? Is DD from 2S AA gonna kill it?

BlueSwordM
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Would not kill it, but overdrive by quite a bit if you were to use alkaline AAs. DON’T PUT IN LITHIUM AAs though. Their open circuit voltage is 1,8V, so that would be 3,6V and probably kill the LED instantly since it draws very low currents.

Just put in 2xNiMH AAs and you will be fine.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

manithree
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Just put in 2xNiMH AAs and you will be fine.

Cool, thanks. Eneloops ONLY is the plan. I’m hoping I can use an old incan base, then if it doesn’t last long, I can easily replace it.

I thought I had some C-sleeves, but it turns out they’re D sleeves. So I’m waiting on the sleeves and the LEDs for now.

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Why does my spell check keep flagging “lumen”?

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What does “BBL” mean on tint chart?

BlueSwordM
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Black Body Locus.

It’s basically the color path of a perfect heater, or incandescent light source, known as a black body, that it would take at a certain color literal temperature, like 3000k, emitting light in every possible wavelength at a perfect sunlike color reproduction.

Going above the BBL means going to higher wavelengths, meaning going towards blue, or worse, green wavelengths.

Going below the BBL means going to lower wavelengths, meaning going to Nichia 219B’s rosiness level.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
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Is it bad that my charger shows 4.22 volts when finished charging Li-ion batteries? If so, how much of a problem is it? Should I return the charger under warranty?

Thanks!

 

 

BlueSwordM
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As long as it doesn’t exceed 4.25V, you will be fine.

Just discharge the cell inside of a light for a few seconds, and it will come back down to 4.2V in a jim.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
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Grappler wrote:
Is it bad that my charger shows 4.22 volts when finished charging Li-ion batteries? If so, how much of a problem is it? Should I return the charger under warranty?

Thanks!


I would double check the voltage with a DMM.

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CNCman
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I you have a driver, do you need the R1206 for correct operation in 12v configuration. Or do I remove and jump it with solder.
This is for a high amp mod. Question

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

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LichtAn
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Why is it so much harder to desolder components from factory than it is, when you did them yourself. Tried to desolder a driver spring yesterday and cranked my 60W iron up to 380°C with a big chisel tip, still nothing. Using desoldering braid it even gets worse. Had to get it off with a regulated blowtorch.

JasonWW
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LichtAn wrote:
Why is it so much harder to desolder components from factory than it is, when you did them yourself. Tried to desolder a driver spring yesterday and cranked my 60W iron up to 380°C with a big chisel tip, still nothing. Using desoldering braid it even gets worse. Had to get it off with a regulated blowtorch.

The factories may be using lead-free solder (for health and safety regulations) which has a higher melting point then the leaded solder that most hobbyists use.

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LichtAn
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JasonWW wrote:
LichtAn wrote:
Why is it so much harder to desolder components from factory than it is, when you did them yourself. Tried to desolder a driver spring yesterday and cranked my 60W iron up to 380°C with a big chisel tip, still nothing. Using desoldering braid it even gets worse. Had to get it off with a regulated blowtorch.
The factories may be using lead-free solder (for health and safety regulations) which has a higher melting point then the leaded solder that most hobbyists use.

I suspected this. But how much higher should I go with the temperature?

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Your heat setting is probably not totally incorrect, try this-
First FLUX IT, flux it real good.
Then add a tiny amount of your solder.
Now try again.

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CNCman wrote:

I you have a driver, do you need the R1206 for correct operation in 12v configuration. Or do I remove and jump it with solder.
This is for a high amp mod. Question

For 12v operation you leave the jumpers open and short the R1206 pads (a 0ohm 1206 size resistor or a solder blob is fine), for 6v operation you leave the resistor pads open and sort the 2 jumper pads.

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LichtAn
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Your heat setting is probably not totally incorrect, try this- First FLUX IT, flux it real good. Then add a tiny amount of your solder. Now try again.

Also tried that. Flux burns off gradually and I get a nice shiny blob of new solder on top of the old solder. Maybe I need a more aggressive flux, I just have tacky no clean flux.

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You need some good, liquid flux like Kester

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LichtAn
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Cereal_killer wrote:
You need some good, liquid flux like Kester

I got Chipquik and Stannol. Should do?

JasonWW
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What iron do you have?

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