Sealing what? The optic/reflector is behind an AR glass lens so itâs not open to air.
AR coated lenses block UV light, effectively killing the output of the UV emitter.
This is what I got:
LCWCQAR.CC MR-6L-L2
If that tells you something.
I like the color but it is a bit too warm for me.
The partnr tells it is first generation Oslon Square (they are at gen4 now), but your pics show gen2: gen1 was least efficient but with the best tints that Osram ever made, with gen2 the tint already was a bit greenish, but I never found the 96CRI version (I think).
Yes. In the X6 triple it draws more than 11A and puts out about 2100 lumens.
Yes. In the X6 triple it draws more than 11A and puts out about 2100 lumens.
2100 lumen of ultrahigh CRI =
I finished a light I started a few weeks ago Iâve dubbed âThe Frankenquadâ
Itâs a Thorfire C8s host (last version, with the aluminum pill). I installed a driver I built using Lexelâs 17mm TA driver PCB design I ordered from Oshpark. I used an oddball 20mm DTP MCPCB with four WW XP-G2, arranged in a 2x2 array (4p/3v electrical configuration), I got on Aliexpress and connected them up with 18 AWG silicone wire. Driver and tailspring got 20AWG bypasses.
Not surprisingly, the beam had a big dark spot in the center, so I tried reaming out an OP reflector. That helped, but not enough, so I applied to DCFix. That did the job, nice clean ( & very floody) beam. I tried the original reflector and the beam was still nice and clean, so I left it in place.
When tested with a UT210-E clamp meter, it pulled about 11A from a fully charged LG HG2. Not bad, but I wasnât happy with it.
So, today, I reflowed some 90CRI LH351D emitters to another one of the oddball MCPCBs. I used 2x 4000K and 2x 5000k, mainly to avoid depleting stock of either emitter too much. New test results: ~17A peak with LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q, >18A with a Sony VTC5A; lots of nice high CRI light (and plenty of heat).
I think thatâll do. More on my blog. No beamshots yet, though. I have to redo them now that the new/final emitters are in place.
Another triple LED Novatac, this time with Noctigon and Carclo optic.
Sorry no WIP pictures.
Left, my old Novatac using triple Nichias & optic from KD.
Right, my friendâs Novatac using triple Nichias on Noctigon and Carclo from Intl Outdoor.
Also got my GT mini yesterday, modified it today⊠Samsung LH351D 5000K 80CRI emitter, domed, on the stock DTP 20mm copper MCPCB. Flashed Anduril to the driver, replaced the FET with an SIR800DP and put 18ga wires on it. 18ga spring bypass on the driver. Removed the pcb in the tail cap and fitted a copper disc with the large spring that came with the light, 20 ga bypass inside the spring.
The GT Mini came up recently so I added an Anduril build target for it. Itâs the same as the D1S build, but with button LED support. In case thatâs of interest to anyone. Itâll get updated periodically along with the other supported targets.
Btw, next to my ROT66, this light looks really green. Face it guys, reality is ugly green :party:
Next to a ROT66, even my Cree 3A and 3D lights look green. This is 3A, ROT66, 3D:
It especially makes my LH351D 5000K 80CRI triple look green. But it looks green anyway, even during regular use:
It looks good between other Nichia 219b lights though. 219b 5000K, ROT66, 219b 4000K:
In all pics, the cameraâs white balance was set to âdaylightâ (5000K, neutral).
Last month I finally got me a pair of round-nose pliers, and started to go ham with messing with my lights. First âmodâ I actually performed was put a green boot on my otherwise boring black Convoy M1; its boring black boot went to a grey 3/5 S2 in my wardrobe. Turns out I enjoy my torches with a little splash of color
Next thing Iâll mod is swap drivers on that one S2 and a C8, going from 3/5 to Biscotti, and swap the reflector and lens on the S2 for a strip optic. The parts are already on the mail, because Simon is just that cool :laughing:
On a vaguely related note, this frenzy got me to finally mess with a few small Thrunites I have. Jewelry tweezers allowed me to unscrew the pills on a Ti3 and a TiS to get access to the lens, and with a pair of regular pliers I unscrewed the bezel on a T10. Because I donât love throwing shade at brands, but damn, bro, those lenses were disgustingly grimy :confounded: After I washed them and put them back, even the beamsâ tints and profiles improved. I also took the time to adjust the T10âs bezel o-ring, that was a bit displaced.
Dug out my old X10vn out for my first âreal lifeâ spring bypass with 20AWG wire. Reading went from 88k to 94k Lux. Overall itâs a bit low compared to what others read, but I guess the increase is what matters.
Made the mistake of pre-tinning a bit too furiously and the wire lost at bit of flexibility on the ends of the silicone, but since the spring is so huge I could easily bend them a bit in place, now itâs perfect.
Enogear copper cube.
Made a new switch cover from brass tube and copper sheet.
Changed the emitter to Nichia 219C, FET15 driver and cut some CRX lines into the body so it looks even more cubey now :D
I finished a light I started a few weeks ago Iâve dubbed âThe Frankenquadâ
Itâs a Thorfire C8s host (last version, with the aluminum pill). I installed a driver I built using Lexelâs 17mm TA driver PCB design I ordered from Oshpark. I used an oddball 20mm DTP MCPCB with four WW XP-G2, arranged in a 2x2 array (4p/3v electrical configuration), I got on Aliexpress and connected them up with 18 AWG silicone wire. Driver and tailspring got 20AWG bypasses.
Not surprisingly, the beam had a big dark spot in the center, so I tried reaming out an OP reflector. That helped, but not enough, so I applied to DCFix. That did the job, nice clean ( & very floody) beam. I tried the original reflector and the beam was still nice and clean, so I left it in place.
When tested with a UT210-E clamp meter, it pulled about 11A from a fully charged LG HG2. Not bad, but I wasnât happy with it.
!http://d112tss1dzpest.cloudfront.net/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2018/08/IMG_5668-1024x1024.jpg?
x99172!:ThorFire C8 2Ă2 âFrankenquadâ Mod | Tech ObsessedSo, today, I reflowed some 90CRI LH351D emitters to another one of the oddball MCPCBs. I used 2x 4000K and 2x 5000k, mainly to avoid depleting stock of either emitter too much. New test results: ~17A peak with LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q, >18A with a Sony VTC5A; lots of nice high CRI light (and plenty of heat).
I think thatâll do. More on my blog. No beamshots yet, though. I have to redo them now that the new/final emitters are in place.
Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !!
I might have gone a little too far this time. Modified (again) my Noctigon M43.
It now has 12 Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters and makes 17,284.5 lumens on 4 Samsung 30Q cells. I used an FET+1 driver that I built, flashed with Anduril and utilizing the SIR800DP MOSFET, with 3 slave boards each also having the SIR800DP and an 350mA 7135 chip. Each of the 4 FETâs control one triple board. I donât know for sure but Iâm assuming power draw is in the 60A territory.
Lightning on Anduril at 17,000 lumens is pretty awesome!
Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !!
Thanks! I realize I left out one important bit, my motivation. I was looking for an inexpensive, readily available route to a high output 3v light, so I wouldnât need the bulk of multiple cells, the expense of a high-current boost converter or a special host/optics/spacers. A 3v Luxeon MZ was my first thought, but then I saw these MCPCBs. For less than $5 with XP-G2s and $1 for a bare MCPCB, I figured it was worth a try. I still have a few empty PCBs, so Iâll probably do some more builds. I did have to hack on a centering ring/spacer, and even then, it probably intercepts some of the output.
As for the work mat, itâs a silicone potholder from Daiso (a Japaneese âdollarâ store in the US that sells primarily chineese manufactured products). I started using it to insulate the worksurface, but it is handy for keeping things from getting away.
I have an Astrolux MF02 modded to Fet driver and XHP70.2 with AndĂșril.
It made 9060 lumens and 226 kcd.
Now I removed the led and wanted to shave it. I made a little tool beacause cant find a good washer to help with the razor cut. If the hole was big enough then it was too thick. So find some aluminum sheet and choosed the best thickness and made this:
And after the cut it looked like this:
Then putted back in the head. It works:
It has a little yellow corona but not worse than with dome. It is not that ringy as on the pic. It is because the JPG compression:
Now it making 355500 cd and 7590 lumens which is good for 1192.5m throw.
Also replaced the SST40 in my heat colored L2 with Luxeon V. It make 150 lumens less and throws less also but it has larger hot spot and much nicer tint than SST40 so it stays in.
Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !!
Search on Ali for: work mat
here a few of them
Screw Memory Mat White Magnetic Working Memory Pad Mobile Phone Repair Tools Palm Size 145 x 90mm
http://s.aliexpress.com/AB32QNJz
Heat Insulation Soldering Desk Mat Silicone Heat Gun BGA Soldering Station Pad Maintenance Working Mat Repair Tools
http://s.aliexpress.com/Ir6vMjiy
PHONEFIX 32cm*23cm Anti-Static Mat High Temperature Soldering Work Pad Repair Platform For iPhone iPad Samsung Xiaomi
http://s.aliexpress.com/z2emiyuy
Or search for: Honeycomb mat
2018 Home High Quality Square Honeycomb Silicone insulation Cushion Holder Placement Mat Of Home Dropshipping
http://s.aliexpress.com/2eeQrEZR
Zozz, the yellow corona comes from the phosphor that is covering the substrate. Since the 70.2 is a flip chip, there are no bond wires to break⊠use your razor blade and cut along the edge of the die in a straight down chop, like a guillotine, then push that phosphor thatâs on the outside off the substrate. If you do this, where only the die has the yellow phosphor, your beam will look very much better.
Just be careful not to chip off the phosphor on the die or it will reveal the blue of the die and put out UV that could be harmful to your eyes. Itâs pretty easy though, just be careful and take it easy.
Edit: Like thisâŠ
I have an Astrolux MF02 modded to Fet driver and XHP70.2 with AndĂșril.
It made 9060 lumens and 226 kcd.
Now I removed the led and wanted to shave it.Now it making 355500 cd and 7590 lumens which is good for 1192.5m throw.
Nice mod. FET driven sliced XHP70.2 is a potent combination.