Let’s take another look at the D4S for a moment. 4 XP-L HI emitters net what in that light? Around 5000 lumens? And I was seeing about 6423 from the 80 CRI Samsungs. Then I got the W2 Samsungs and am now seeing 7348. Output win goes to the 70CRI W6 bin. Same 5000K tint. Not sure where you got it that the Vf was lower on the 80 CRI emitter than the 70 CRI variant. In a light it proves out to be opposite. In the ordering specifications both of these rate the Voltage binning at the generic F4, neither specify F2 or H2, so in hand there’s no real way to see that one has an advantage in forward Voltage over the other.
That’s why I said, if I can get 12 of these to perform in the M43 in the same manner of the D4S, then output would be insane! The 4 in the D4S are from a single 20650 cell, the 12 in the M43 would use 4 Samsung 30Q’s. A slight power supply advantage to the M43. (1 cell per 3 emitters vs 1 cell per 4)
I don’t like doing paper math on lights, I like building them to SEE what they can do. I’ve tested lights with different cells WAY too much to believe in the paperwork. Crazy when a cell gives more amperage in a light, but less lumens than a “weaker” cell, but I’ve seen it a lot. FWIW, I’m not the only one to have noticed this.
I’m not in it for the science of it all, to me this is a pass-time hobby. Solitaire if you will. lol
I’m just saying that usually, higher CRI emitters have lower forward voltages and can therefore be pushed to higher current levels. However, efficiency does drop a lot when doing this, so lumen output might actually be lower.
The 90CRI does have a considerably lower forward voltage in the datasheet, but it is less efficient in that regard.
Um, by merely wiping off the contact pad on the “driver” it now shows 10,246.5 lumens. Funny how that Norgel gets off the threads and onto the contacts… so this 10,246.5 reading comes after the first reading, and the subsequent wiping down with my T shirt.
It sounds like you’re in it precisely for the science. Running numbers on paper is good for theoretical purposes, but actually doing it for real to see what happens is science. It’s great fun.
Lol , I did that right after I got my M43… UI was too complex for me. What I’m contemplating now is rebuilding it wit 4 drivers…a Master carrying Anduril and 3 slaves such that each triple board is run by it’s own driver . With the W2 binned Samsung this should prove interesting…
Well, my M43 doesn’t particularly like being pushed really really hard.
I rebuilt it today, used 12 of the Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters on 2 Noctigon triple MCPCB and 2 SinkPAD triple MCPCB. I used 20ga Teflon leads direct from the battery contact to the positive on each of 4 boards, then ran a 20 ga Turnigy lead to the neg on each board from each of 4 SIR800DP MOSFET’s. One FET+1 driver is complete and has Anduril, the other 3 driver boards are only populated with an FET and an 7135 chip, with 26ga Teflon wires running signal to each component.
It’s been a chore to pull off, but I think the switch is not accurate enough for Anduril, it’s hit or miss getting functionality. But, with fresh or semi-fresh 30Q cells I’ve seen 16,732.5 lumens and 16,801.5 lumens in the box. The light doesn’t like this, runs 5 seconds and shuts off. So it needs work but I’m tired and not wanting to work on it any more today.
I wonder if this is the old FET ringing issue coming back, like on banggood’s X6 drivers. It could be running at turbo for 5 seconds, sensing an overheat condition, then ramping down… which takes the FET from always-on to PWM. And then the PWM pulses cause enough electrical noise to reboot the MCU. Same reason why the old X6 driver didn’t work with a triple.
I’m not sure, but it’s one possible explanation for what you saw.
Addressed an issue with one of the Teflon positive leads, getting 17,284.5 lumens when I can engage Turbo. And lightning mode, when I can get there, is freaking AWESOME!
There is insufficient space for 18ga Silicone coated wires. This light was built around a driver that was built for this light, there is little to no extra space, so I used the heaviest Teflon coated wire I had because it tends to be thinner at similar gauges while still carrying enormous loads.
I’m thinking these 30Q’s are not capable of the maximum load being pulled from them, they are not new after all and have been used in other hard hitting lights before this one. I don’t know how many amps this thing is pulling but it’s bound to be a lot… each of the Samsung emitters is making 1440 lumens so I would guess the current is in the 60A ball park. Not sure what will happen if I get better cells and even more output, but of course y’all know I will try…
The heat in this rather compact light from this kind of output is just insane.