Noctigon Meteor M43 official sales and discussion thread

Yes. I did it a while back, but mine runs Andúril. :partying_face:

I piggybacked a TA driver onto a depopulated Meteor driver.

Probably, but I wasn’t into lighted switches back then so I didn’t pursue it.

Instead of my method, you might look into a correct-diameter driver from Lexel.

I just tested my two m43 lights with the TA tube…

M43 xp-g2 s4 3d. 6200 lumen @ 5 sec

M43vn xpl dedome. 9520 lumen @ 5 sec

It sounds like you’re in it precisely for the science. Running numbers on paper is good for theoretical purposes, but actually doing it for real to see what happens is science. It’s great fun. :slight_smile:

So can we still call you Dr. Frankendale?

I think you just made someone in Russia cry.

Lol , I did that right after I got my M43… UI was too complex for me. What I’m contemplating now is rebuilding it wit 4 drivers…a Master carrying Anduril and 3 slaves such that each triple board is run by it’s own driver . With the W2 binned Samsung this should prove interesting…

Where should I say I got my Doctorate in Frankenology TK? BLFU?

I know, I know, but I still have (and love!) a stock Meteor running UI 3. :smiley:

:cry: :cry:

BTW as I remember , driver of M43 could be modded to 12A(10klm with xpl hi) vs. 8A in stock.

Well, my M43 doesn’t particularly like being pushed really really hard. :wink:

I rebuilt it today, used 12 of the Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters on 2 Noctigon triple MCPCB and 2 SinkPAD triple MCPCB. I used 20ga Teflon leads direct from the battery contact to the positive on each of 4 boards, then ran a 20 ga Turnigy lead to the neg on each board from each of 4 SIR800DP MOSFET’s. One FET+1 driver is complete and has Anduril, the other 3 driver boards are only populated with an FET and an 7135 chip, with 26ga Teflon wires running signal to each component.

It’s been a chore to pull off, but I think the switch is not accurate enough for Anduril, it’s hit or miss getting functionality. But, with fresh or semi-fresh 30Q cells I’ve seen 16,732.5 lumens and 16,801.5 lumens in the box. The light doesn’t like this, runs 5 seconds and shuts off. So it needs work but I’m tired and not wanting to work on it any more today. :stuck_out_tongue:

Ah as expected. There is something limiting the current somewhere. You need some thicker 18GA wire somewhere.

Are the springs bypassed? Not really going to help too much with the Intl Outdoor springs, but every mV helps at such high power levels.

I wonder if this is the old FET ringing issue coming back, like on banggood’s X6 drivers. It could be running at turbo for 5 seconds, sensing an overheat condition, then ramping down… which takes the FET from always-on to PWM. And then the PWM pulses cause enough electrical noise to reboot the MCU. Same reason why the old X6 driver didn’t work with a triple.

I’m not sure, but it’s one possible explanation for what you saw.

Addressed an issue with one of the Teflon positive leads, getting 17,284.5 lumens when I can engage Turbo. And lightning mode, when I can get there, is freaking AWESOME! :smiley:

There is insufficient space for 18ga Silicone coated wires. This light was built around a driver that was built for this light, there is little to no extra space, so I used the heaviest Teflon coated wire I had because it tends to be thinner at similar gauges while still carrying enormous loads.

I’m thinking these 30Q’s are not capable of the maximum load being pulled from them, they are not new after all and have been used in other hard hitting lights before this one. I don’t know how many amps this thing is pulling but it’s bound to be a lot… each of the Samsung emitters is making 1440 lumens so I would guess the current is in the 60A ball park. Not sure what will happen if I get better cells and even more output, but of course y’all know I will try…

The heat in this rather compact light from this kind of output is just insane.

I really don’t like stripping Teflon coated wires, it’s a chore, especially on a 26ga wire. But in this case it worked even if it took me forever…

What a mess, huh? LOL

I need to re-enforce ground to all 4 driver pcb’s, the problem may lie there, insufficient ground for the power being drawn. Will try it tomorrow….

Your a real wiz Dale. Its all black magic what your doing. :+1:

Thanks Steve, I appreciate what you’re saying but I still just feel like a hack. :wink: (in over my head a lot of times these days)

Hi Toykeeper, can you please tell me if there's a new X6 driver available that can handle triple/quad lights? Thank you!

TK, the switch on my Meteor is one of those metal clicky’s, like the Halloween Frog thing. I changed it to a normal e-switch and while it works perfectly with no boot in place it acts up again just the same if I re-install the boot. Seems odd, but it does work perfectly with the switch exposed. Beats me, just reporting…

From Banggood, there is not. But fixed drivers are available from others, including (if I recall correctly) RMM, Texas_Ace, Lexel, and Pilotdog68.

I’m not really sure what would cause that, then. I wonder if it’s partially compressed with the boot on, or maybe if having it exposed gives it a better connection to stable ground (through skin). This seems like the sort of thing a scope would be really useful for.