What did you mod today?

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Cereal_killer
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Sealing what? The optic/reflector is behind an AR glass lens so it’s not open to air.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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AR coated lenses block UV light, effectively killing the output of the UV emitter.

ZozzV6
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djozz wrote:
Talking about green, which generation Oslon Square were these, and how do you like the tint?

This is what I got:
LCWCQAR.CC MR-6L-L2
If that tells you something.
I like the color but it is a bit too warm for me.

More pics

djozz
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ZozzV6 wrote:
djozz wrote:
Talking about green, which generation Oslon Square were these, and how do you like the tint?

This is what I got:
LCWCQAR.CC MR-6L-L2
If that tells you something.
I like the color but it is a bit too warm for me.

More pics


The partnr tells it is first generation Oslon Square (they are at gen4 now), but your pics show gen2: gen1 was least efficient but with the best tints that Osram ever made, with gen2 the tint already was a bit greenish, but I never found the 96CRI version (I think).
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Yes. In the X6 triple it draws more than 11A and puts out about 2100 lumens.

djozz
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Yes. In the X6 triple it draws more than 11A and puts out about 2100 lumens.

2100 lumen of ultrahigh CRI = Cool
eas
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I finished a light I started a few weeks ago I’ve dubbed ‘The Frankenquad’

It’s a Thorfire C8s host (last version, with the aluminum pill). I installed a driver I built using Lexel’s 17mm TA driver PCB design I ordered from Oshpark. I used an oddball 20mm DTP MCPCB with four WW XP-G2, arranged in a 2×2 array (4p/3v electrical configuration), I got on Aliexpress and connected them up with 18 AWG silicone wire. Driver and tailspring got 20AWG bypasses.

Not surprisingly, the beam had a big dark spot in the center, so I tried reaming out an OP reflector. That helped, but not enough, so I applied to DCFix. That did the job, nice clean ( & very floody) beam. I tried the original reflector and the beam was still nice and clean, so I left it in place.

When tested with a UT210-E clamp meter, it pulled about 11A from a fully charged LG HG2. Not bad, but I wasn’t happy with it.

So, today, I reflowed some 90CRI LH351D emitters to another one of the oddball MCPCBs. I used 2× 4000K and 2× 5000k, mainly to avoid depleting stock of either emitter too much. New test results: ~17A peak with LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q, >18A with a Sony VTC5A; lots of nice high CRI light (and plenty of heat).

I think that’ll do. More on my blog. No beamshots yet, though. I have to redo them now that the new/final emitters are in place.

.

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Another triple LED Novatac, this time with Noctigon and Carclo optic.
Sorry no WIP pictures.

Left, my old Novatac using triple Nichias & optic from KD.
Right, my friend’s Novatac using triple Nichias on Noctigon and Carclo from Intl Outdoor.

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DB Custom wrote:
Also got my GT mini yesterday, modified it today… Samsung LH351D 5000K 80CRI emitter, domed, on the stock DTP 20mm copper MCPCB. Flashed Anduril to the driver, replaced the FET with an SIR800DP and put 18ga wires on it. 18ga spring bypass on the driver. Removed the pcb in the tail cap and fitted a copper disc with the large spring that came with the light, 20 ga bypass inside the spring.

The GT Mini came up recently so I added an Anduril build target for it. It’s the same as the D1S build, but with button LED support. In case that’s of interest to anyone. It’ll get updated periodically along with the other supported targets.

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djozz wrote:
Btw, next to my ROT66, this light looks really green. Face it guys, reality is ugly green Party

Next to a ROT66, even my Cree 3A and 3D lights look green. This is 3A, ROT66, 3D:

It especially makes my LH351D 5000K 80CRI triple look green. But it looks green anyway, even during regular use:

It looks good between other Nichia 219b lights though. 219b 5000K, ROT66, 219b 4000K:

In all pics, the camera’s white balance was set to “daylight” (5000K, neutral).

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Last month I finally got me a pair of round-nose pliers, and started to go ham with messing with my lights. First “mod” I actually performed was put a green boot on my otherwise boring black Convoy M1; its boring black boot went to a grey 3/5 S2 in my wardrobe. Turns out I enjoy my torches with a little splash of color Big Smile

Next thing I’ll mod is swap drivers on that one S2 and a C8, going from 3/5 to Biscotti, and swap the reflector and lens on the S2 for a strip optic. The parts are already on the mail, because Simon is just that cool LOL

On a vaguely related note, this frenzy got me to finally mess with a few small Thrunites I have. Jewelry tweezers allowed me to unscrew the pills on a Ti3 and a TiS to get access to the lens, and with a pair of regular pliers I unscrewed the bezel on a T10. Because I don’t love throwing shade at brands, but damn, bro, those lenses were disgustingly grimy Sick After I washed them and put them back, even the beams’ tints and profiles improved. I also took the time to adjust the T10’s bezel o-ring, that was a bit displaced.

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Dug out my old X10vn out for my first “real life” spring bypass with 20AWG wire. Reading went from 88k to 94k Lux. Overall it’s a bit low compared to what others read, but I guess the increase is what matters.
Made the mistake of pre-tinning a bit too furiously and the wire lost at bit of flexibility on the ends of the silicone, but since the spring is so huge I could easily bend them a bit in place, now it’s perfect.

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Enogear copper cube.

Made a new switch cover from brass tube and copper sheet.Enogear Copper Cube Nichia 219C 4000K - FET15 - 14500 - Rv Clicky Sw - 870lm..

Changed the emitter to Nichia 219C, FET15 driver and cut some CRX lines into the body so it looks even more cubey now Big Smile Enogear Copper Cube Nichia 219C 4000K - FET15 - 14500 - Rv Clicky Sw - 870lm..

Stock:

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eas wrote:
I finished a light I started a few weeks ago I’ve dubbed ‘The Frankenquad’

It’s a Thorfire C8s host (last version, with the aluminum pill). I installed a driver I built using Lexel’s 17mm TA driver PCB design I ordered from Oshpark. I used an oddball 20mm DTP MCPCB with four WW XP-G2, arranged in a 2×2 array (4p/3v electrical configuration), I got on Aliexpress and connected them up with 18 AWG silicone wire. Driver and tailspring got 20AWG bypasses.

Not surprisingly, the beam had a big dark spot in the center, so I tried reaming out an OP reflector. That helped, but not enough, so I applied to DCFix. That did the job, nice clean ( & very floody) beam. I tried the original reflector and the beam was still nice and clean, so I left it in place.

When tested with a UT210-E clamp meter, it pulled about 11A from a fully charged LG HG2. Not bad, but I wasn’t happy with it.

!{width:50%}http://d112tss1dzpest.cloudfront.net/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2018/...?
x99172!:http://techobsessed.net/2018/08/thorfire-c8-2×2-mod/

So, today, I reflowed some 90CRI LH351D emitters to another one of the oddball MCPCBs. I used 2× 4000K and 2× 5000k, mainly to avoid depleting stock of either emitter too much. New test results: ~17A peak with LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q, >18A with a Sony VTC5A; lots of nice high CRI light (and plenty of heat).

I think that’ll do. More on my blog. No beamshots yet, though. I have to redo them now that the new/final emitters are in place.

Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You Beer
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !!

Beer

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Good Intentions are no guarantee for Good Results.

DB Custom
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I might have gone a little too far this time. Modified (again) my Noctigon M43.

It now has 12 Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters and makes 17,284.5 lumens on 4 Samsung 30Q cells. I used an FET+1 driver that I built, flashed with Anduril and utilizing the SIR800DP MOSFET, with 3 slave boards each also having the SIR800DP and an 350mA 7135 chip. Each of the 4 FET’s control one triple board. I don’t know for sure but I’m assuming power draw is in the 60A territory.

Lightning on Anduril at 17,000 lumens is pretty awesome! Big Smile

eas
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CNCman wrote:

Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You Beer
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !! Beer

Thanks! I realize I left out one important bit, my motivation. I was looking for an inexpensive, readily available route to a high output 3v light, so I wouldn’t need the bulk of multiple cells, the expense of a high-current boost converter or a special host/optics/spacers. A 3v Luxeon MZ was my first thought, but then I saw these MCPCBs. For less than $5 with XP-G2s and $1 for a bare MCPCB, I figured it was worth a try. I still have a few empty PCBs, so I’ll probably do some more builds. I did have to hack on a centering ring/spacer, and even then, it probably intercepts some of the output.

As for the work mat, it’s a silicone potholder from Daiso (a Japaneese “dollar” store in the US that sells primarily chineese manufactured products). I started using it to insulate the worksurface, but it is handy for keeping things from getting away.

.

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I have an Astrolux MF02 modded to Fet driver and XHP70.2 with Andúril.
It made 9060 lumens and 226 kcd.
Now I removed the led and wanted to shave it. I made a little tool beacause cant find a good washer to help with the razor cut. If the hole was big enough then it was too thick. So find some aluminum sheet and choosed the best thickness and made this:

And after the cut it looked like this:

Then putted back in the head. It works:

It has a little yellow corona but not worse than with dome. It is not that ringy as on the pic. It is because the JPG compression:

Now it making 355500 cd and 7590 lumens which is good for 1192.5m throw.

Also replaced the SST40 in my heat colored L2 with Luxeon V. It make 150 lumens less and throws less also but it has larger hot spot and much nicer tint than SST40 so it stays in.

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CNCman wrote:

Nice mod and very detail information I have saved for future mods , Thank You Beer
I do have a Question , where did you get that honeycomb work mat ? nothing rolls off that !! Beer

Search on Ali for: work mat

here a few of them

Screw Memory Mat White Magnetic Working Memory Pad Mobile Phone Repair Tools Palm Size 145 × 90mm
http://s.aliexpress.com/AB32QNJz

Heat Insulation Soldering Desk Mat Silicone Heat Gun BGA Soldering Station Pad Maintenance Working Mat Repair Tools
http://s.aliexpress.com/Ir6vMjiy

PHONEFIX 32cm*23cm Anti-Static Mat High Temperature Soldering Work Pad Repair Platform For iPhone iPad Samsung Xiaomi http://s.aliexpress.com/z2emiyuy

Or search for: Honeycomb mat

2018 Home High Quality Square Honeycomb Silicone insulation Cushion Holder Placement Mat Of Home Dropshipping http://s.aliexpress.com/2eeQrEZR

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Zozz, the yellow corona comes from the phosphor that is covering the substrate. Since the 70.2 is a flip chip, there are no bond wires to break… use your razor blade and cut along the edge of the die in a straight down chop, like a guillotine, then push that phosphor that’s on the outside off the substrate. If you do this, where only the die has the yellow phosphor, your beam will look very much better.

Just be careful not to chip off the phosphor on the die or it will reveal the blue of the die and put out UV that could be harmful to your eyes. It’s pretty easy though, just be careful and take it easy.

Edit: Like this…

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ZozzV6 wrote:
I have an Astrolux MF02 modded to Fet driver and XHP70.2 with Andúril.
It made 9060 lumens and 226 kcd.
Now I removed the led and wanted to shave it.

Now it making 355500 cd and 7590 lumens which is good for 1192.5m throw.


Nice mod. FET driven sliced XHP70.2 is a potent combination.
ZozzV6
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DB Custom wrote:
UV that could be harmful to your eyes.

Also 7590 lumens directly Big Smile

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Always have to be considerate of the high power, you SURE don’t want to be looking into something like my Meteor that’s making 17,284 lumens when Turbo is hit!

I’ve gotten used to being hit in the face with lumens, 7600 lumens doesn’t bother me like it used to.

May not be able to see sometime in the not-so-distant future, but hey…

Edit: Hmmm, so it’s said that the XHP-70.2 is like 4 XP-L dies, right? My Emisar D4S is making 7300 lumens with Samsung emitters, pretty intense to be sure. Don’t want to stare into it when it’s, say, in Lightning mode (Anduril), and the MCU decides to throw a few full power bursts… my Meteor either for that matter!

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I know the dangers. Just kidding. Never flash anybody in the eye with my lights. I have an MT09R with 21510 lumens. It is a beast.

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Common leds with phosfor removed are 450nm royal blue leds, 450nm is not very nice to the eyes but they do not emit in UV.

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I’ve always heard that the output from a die with damaged phosphor emitted UV light? When MEM was working on the aspheric throwers and the XP-G3 came out, I did some unsuccessful de-doming and had bare XP-G3’s, wired one up in a zoomie just to see what it did. Found it giving me a headache which is the first danger sign of excess UV. Perhaps it was just that die or perhaps it was something else entirely.

djozz
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DB Custom wrote:
I’ve always heard that the output from a die with damaged phosphor emitted UV light? When MEM was working on the aspheric throwers and the XP-G3 came out, I did some unsuccessful de-doming and had bare XP-G3’s, wired one up in a zoomie just to see what it did. Found it giving me a headache which is the first danger sign of excess UV. Perhaps it was just that die or perhaps it was something else entirely.

It is not the UV that gave you headaches but the 450nm blue light. Eyes are very insensitive to 450nm so with a lot of it you still do not see it very well, while your pupils adjust to the amount that you see and not the optical power and thus are wide open.
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And isn’t 450nm blue light UV light? According to research online “The Phosphor white method produces white light in a single LED by combining a short wavelength LED such as blue or UV, and a yellow phosphor coating. The blue or UV photons generated in the LED either travels through the phosphor layer without alteration, or they are converted into yellow photons in the phosphor layer.” Technically UV stops at 400nm, so we’re splitting 50nm of spectrum and counting on the emitter manufacturer to get it right, for the most part.

So it would depend on the particular emitter as to whether or not the base output is in the UV spectrum or merely the blue light spectrum.

Potentially dangerous (or at best hazardous), regardless, so care should be taken to discard a damaged die.

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All commonly used white leds in flashlights use 450nm blue leds under the phosfor. They do not emit UV.

Only a handful leds use a 400nm base led (best known are VTC-series Yuji leds) but those are all low or midpower leds so not found in flashlights (except that one or two BLF-weirdo’s made a flashlight out of them).

And recently Nichia used a 420nm base led for the cool Optisolis leds, also midpower and build into a few flashlights by BLF members suffering from tint-OCD.

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A 2 in 1 tonight.

Nitecore Cx6 (this particular one started out white / red), it now sports a XP-L and a green XP-E2 cause that’s what I had laying around and I like building them as much as using them. I plan to get a PC amber XP-E2 next parts order and replace the green one then.

The color led driver is my last BLF-SK68 board, the white driver is a blf-17ddv3. These are my last two 13A driver builds!

Both run modified versions of TomE’s e-switch13 FW.

First we strip the factory driver and hook to the switch pads, while you’re at it find batt+ and GND on the factory driver contact plate.

Go ahead and sandwich those in there

Do some things here


Pry up the FET’s gate and add a 130ohm resistor cause for some reason the 17dd interfered with the other led on medium and high (but not ml, low or turbo) and started LVP ramp down immediately without it. The gate resistor fixed that!

*correction, lvp ramp was because R2 wasn’t grounded for some dumb reason

Glue is drying in the head, probably be tomorrow before I can wire the emitters up.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Oh my, I hope to learn enough one day to do things like that. Skill from experience has turned to Art for you, sweet Beer

DB Custom wrote:
I might have gone a little too far this time. Modified (again) my Noctigon M43.

It now has 12 Samsung LH351D W2 5000K emitters and makes 17,284.5 lumens on 4 Samsung 30Q cells. I used an FET+1 driver that I built, flashed with Anduril and utilizing the SIR800DP MOSFET, with 3 slave boards each also having the SIR800DP and an 350mA 7135 chip. Each of the 4 FET’s control one triple board. I don’t know for sure but I’m assuming power draw is in the 60A territory.

Lightning on Anduril at 17,000 lumens is pretty awesome! Big Smile

Beer

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Good Intentions are no guarantee for Good Results.

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