And isnāt 450nm blue light UV light? According to research online āThe Phosphor white method produces white light in a single LED by combining a short wavelength LED such as blue or UV, and a yellow phosphor coating. The blue or UV photons generated in the LED either travels through the phosphor layer without alteration, or they are converted into yellow photons in the phosphor layer.ā Technically UV stops at 400nm, so weāre splitting 50nm of spectrum and counting on the emitter manufacturer to get it right, for the most part.
So it would depend on the particular emitter as to whether or not the base output is in the UV spectrum or merely the blue light spectrum.
Potentially dangerous (or at best hazardous), regardless, so care should be taken to discard a damaged die.
All commonly used white leds in flashlights use 450nm blue leds under the phosfor. They do not emit UV.
Only a handful leds use a 400nm base led (best known are VTC-series Yuji leds) but those are all low or midpower leds so not found in flashlights (except that one or two BLF-weirdoās made a flashlight out of them).
And recently Nichia used a 420nm base led for the cool Optisolis leds, also midpower and build into a few flashlights by BLF members suffering from tint-OCD.
Nitecore Cx6 (this particular one started out white / red), it now sports a XP-L and a green XP-E2 cause thatās what I had laying around and I like building them as much as using them. I plan to get a PC amber XP-E2 next parts order and replace the green one then.
The color led driver is my last BLF-SK68 board, the white driver is a blf-17ddv3. These are my last two 13A driver builds!
Both run modified versions of TomEās e-switch13 FW.
First we strip the factory driver and hook to the switch pads, while youāre at it find batt+ and GND on the factory driver contact plate.
Go ahead and sandwich those in there
Do some things here
Pry up the FETās gate and add a 130ohm resistor cause for some reason the 17dd interfered with the other led on medium and high (but not ml, low or turbo) and started LVP ramp down immediately without it. The gate resistor fixed that!
*correction, lvp ramp was because R2 wasnāt grounded for some dumb reason
Glue is drying in the head, probably be tomorrow before I can wire the emitters up.
I am amazed at all the modding experience going on here. You guys are Good. So much to learn about drivers, I will try to keep up. It sure is tiny for 13A. You sure that may be a World Record tiny high amp setup ? Wow !!
This evening I soldered a loop into one of the triple boards to check current at the emitters, each board is pulling 14.53A for a total of 58.12A, an estimated ~188 Watts. Each Samsung W6 emitter is pushing 1460 lumens for 17,526 lumens at start on 4 Samsung 30Q cells.
Built a PD68 tripledown board. Still a bench project but I do have one in a light but it is just pressfit and not soldered in yet. It runs Bistro-HD right now. Still yet to settle on mode groups and actually build them out.
Iām not quite ready to make permanent modifications to this light for Mrs. manithree, so I made a drop-in replacement for the incandescent bulb using a high CRI Yuji strawhat, a brass washer, and some copper wire.